Need Help! Slammed into curb going 45mph

[epreski7]

Long story short I was going about 45 when this lady in front of me slammed onto her brakes and I ended up slamming into the curb. Just need peoples opinions and help on things. I brought it for a visual inspection at Tire Kingdom and it has a broken tie rod, broken motor mount, bent back rim and apparently a broken axle. My first concern is the axle from what it looked like it look like only the boot tore could there be any unseen damage? The next is the time they quoted me. They quoted around 11 hours to fix that one axle when I've seen people on YouTube do it in like 20 minutes at home so if anyone can send me a link on how I can do that myself I would greatly appreciate it. if anyone has links on how to repair the front motor mount and right front outer tie rod since they quoted me 10 hours for each and I know that's complete bs. Thanks I would appreciate any help

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

You will be best served taking a stop at your local auto parts store to pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual for you car. You can see what will be involved in the repairs that are needed. Then head back and pick up the parts and even rent the needed tools in most cases. It is obvious that the shop did not want to do the job. You will also want to inspect control arms for damage as well.

 

[epreski7]

You will be best served taking a stop at your local auto parts store to pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual for you car. You can see what will be involved in the repairs that are needed. Then head back and pick up the parts and even rent the needed tools in most cases. It is obvious that the shop did not want to do the job. You will also want to inspect control arms for damage as well.

I was thinking about that book just want sure how useful it'd be since I have the 4g64 engine not sure if all the suspension components the same as well as the motor mounts. Would there be any special tools needed for these repairs? Yea I'm going to take a look at it myself tomorrow after work didn't rally notice a difference in the way it drove besides a slight vibration and a weird noise like what the tireson lifted trucks make

 

[EclipseGst95Garage]

The inner tie rod you need a tool which you can rent at your local auto parts store. How bad is the motor mount? The manual should have your engine type.

 

[AlwaysSunnyOhio]

Yeh you can pick up a Haynes manual at autozone. If you need tools see if you are close to a harbor freight. Axles and tie rods are fairly easy it's putting it back together that's the pain. you have to line everything up and the slide the bolts through and its a pain in the ass.

 

[epreski7]

The inner tie rod you need a tool which you can rent at your local auto parts store. How bad is the motor mount? The manual should have your engine type.

I don't believe its the inner tie rod they put right front outer tie rod on the inspection sheet does that still need the tool?, it ripped the rubber part in the mount in half so whenever I shift gears the front of the engine move lifts up a good 5-8 inches, alright ill go give it a look

Yeh you can pick up a Haynes manual at autozone. If you need tools see if you are close to a harbor freight. Axles and tie rods are fairly easy it's putting it back together that's the pain. you have to line everything up and the slide the bolts through and its a pain in the ass.

Yea I'm going to go after work to give it a look just had a bad experience with the manuals bought one for my maxima with a 3.0 and all the book had was info on the 3.5, do you know around how long it would all take since this is my dd

 

[AlwaysSunnyOhio]

I don't believe its the inner tie rod they put right front outer tie rod on the inspection sheet does that still need the tool?, it ripped the rubber part in the mount in half so whenever I shift gears the front of the engine move lifts up a good 5-8 inches, alright ill go give it a look

Yea I'm going to go after work to give it a look just had a bad experience with the manuals bought one for my maxima with a 3.0 and all the book had was info on the 3.5, do you know around how long it would all take since this is my dd

That job if you have done it before is really easy. Shouldn't take you more than a couple hours.

The outer tie rod is pretty easy if the bolts aren't frozen together. Otherwise I've had to torch them befor. Just spray it with some PB blaster and let it sit for an hour or so if it doesn't budge.

The axle the hardest part is just putting it back together. Just always keep an eye on the bolt threads you remove. I've stripped them before and basically you just yell some choice words and go track down some new ones.

I have the Haynes for the eclipse and so far it hasn't let me down when I had a question.

 

[rough]

Did something similar, check out my thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wheel-pushed-back.486816/

I'm now back on the road with just a little work left!

May give you an idea of what you have in store for you!

 

[epreski7]

That job if you have done it before is really easy. Shouldn't take you more than a couple hours.

The outer tie rod is pretty easy if the bolts aren't frozen together. Otherwise I've had to torch them befor. Just spray it with some PB blaster and let it sit for an hour or so if it doesn't budge.

The axle the hardest part is just putting it back together. Just always keep an eye on the bolt threads you remove. I've stripped them before and basically you just yell some choice words and go track down some new ones.

I have the Haynes for the eclipse and so far it hasn't let me down when I had a question.

Did something similar, check out my thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wheel-pushed-back.486816/

I'm now back on the road with just a little work left!

May give you an idea of what you have in store for you!

Alright Thanks guys, I've got an idea on how to do everything, hopefully I have everything fixed by next weekend, Thanks for your help[DOUBLEPOST=1415462622][/DOUBLEPOST]Just a quick question bought a new motor mount and there's a little tear in the really thin part of the rubber, is that alright?

 

[Wigley]

To break the tie rod from the knuckle get a ball ping hammer and hit it horizontal after taking the nut off and it'll pop off. The tie rod is tapered so by hitting it makes it vibrate loose. It's better than hitting the nut on top.

 

[estoyaqui30]

Obviously, after you replace all of the broken parts it will need an alignment. When it's in for the alignment, I will tell the technician what happened so he/she can just make sure that nothing else might have gotten bent. Just to be sure.

 

[Wigley]

If you joust the car meaning press down on the center of the rear bumper hard and let it bounce. It shouldn't bounce more than 1 and a half times that'll let you know if either strut needs replacing and repeat for the front bumper to check the struts.

 

[estoyaqui30]

Just thought about it. Based on personal experience, every time I've had to disassemble a front knuckle to replace axles or bushings, etc. the anti-sway bar end link never survives. The factory piece is poorly designed....they use a special lock nut (squeezed out of round) it is tight all of the way off and there is no solid hex to put a wrench on to the other side of the shaft. I've been using a Moog part. Just so you can check the old ones advance. There's nothing worse than getting halfway through a project and needing another part.

 

[rough]

Yea I was looking at those sway bar end links, side swiping a curb and you'll need a sway bar and new end links I hit my object straight so the end links seem Ok but I could be wrong. Might be an excuse to upgrade the sway bar an replace the links.

 

[estoyaqui30]

Yea, I got the Moog endlinks for less then the mitsubishi parts and they have a very nice hex to put a wrench on the shaft. They use a regular nut and lock washer.

 

[greengoblin]

Your also really want to check the knuckle for damage. Inspect both the steering arm very close and the area where the lower ball joints connect. If you even think you see a crack or suspect it's bent etc scrap it. I have seen the entire area where the ball joints interface with the knuckle shear off from a curb impact. Also check all the areas where the suspension bolts to the subframe and body. It's easy to miss bent/cracked stuff because your to busy looking at at obvious stuff.

 

[epreski7]

To break the tie rod from the knuckle get a ball ping hammer and hit it horizontal after taking the nut off and it'll pop off. The tie rod is tapered so by hitting it makes it vibrate loose. It's better than hitting the nut on top.

Alright thanks for the advise, I just bought another tie rod today, do you know if your suppose to grease under the boot Ive seen some that you have to do that so im not sure, I got the Duralast one

Obviously, after you replace all of the broken parts it will need an alignment. When it's in for the alignment, I will tell the technician what happened so he/she can just make sure that nothing else might have gotten bent. Just to be sure.

Yes I already brought it to a technician that's how I figured out all this was broken and would you be able to tell me where the sway bar is, I looked under my car yesterday to check for any dmage they might have missed but couldn't seem to find it.

Your also really want to check the knuckle for damage. Inspect both the steering arm very close and the area where the lower ball joints connect. If you even think you see a crack or suspect it's bent etc scrap it. I have seen the entire area where the ball joints interface with the knuckle shear off from a curb impact. Also check all the areas where the suspension bolts to the subframe and body. It's easy to miss bent/cracked stuff because your to busy looking at at obvious stuff.

I checked the frame doesn't seem to be any damage thankfully, would there be anyway to tell of a bad ball joint without visually looking at it?

 

[alost95gsx]

since no one mentioned it take a good look at the hub/wheel bearings they rarely survive a hit that hard. That's probably where that weird lifted truck noise is coming from.