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need help making my 1G racecar faster

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nehring8

10+ Year Contributor
65
2
Apr 27, 2009
ankeny, Iowa
My car is a 91 Laser:

First off, the class that I race in is a naturally aspirated class only and it is a "stock" class so that is my boundary (dirt circle track). I have put together an engine out of "junk yard" parts that runs pretty good (came in 3rd out of 30 running with V6's, and I'm consistantly in the top 5 to 10% in my 4cyl only class). I started with a 2.4 block/pistons/crank out of a 97 galant, pushing the "stock" rule i know, (removed the balance shafts) and put my stock head/intake/throttle body/exhaust on and upgraded to a set of turbo 5 speed cams. I also use a set of 275cc injectors out of a galant. I am running the stock ECU. I run 93 octane pump gas and am getting about 210psi compression across all 4 cylinders.

Am I missing anything that would make more power that can be found easily in a junk yard?
 
probably time for an update...have been out 6 times this yaer so far: two wins, 3 seconds and a fifth. Car is handling like it's on rails in the corners and is as fast as the V6's in the straights. Even on the 3 second place finishes I was by far the fastest car out there, but if you have ever raced in a circle you know the fastest car does not asways win. One of the wins I got out in front early and ended up winning by about 1/2 a lap on the 1/2 mile track. Will try to get more video if I can...
 
Update and Question... year to date 3 wins 5 seconds 1 third 1 fourth 1 fifth and 2 DNF (got stuffed into a wall and cv joint popped the next week)
now onto the question, I was at a race last week and a guy said that all of the top racers are using limited slip differentials and that's why they can come out of the corner so hard, our rules say no welded differentials and no torque dividing final drives...I have been checked for locked before....
What can I use on a racers budget ~$200, and will it last...
also, what is meant by "torque dividing final drive"
 
You may have considered most of this.

The road racer in me says.

1) Reduce weight, sheet metal, factory crash bars, hood frame can be cut down, remove all AC parts, if your running the hatch can you make it lighter. Dimple dies, hole saws, lexan.
2) Move weight around ( battery relocation to rear )
3) Suspension ( maybe replace the bushings - super cheap from energy suspension products )
4) Alignment - toe, camber, caster, setup for circle track
5) Seat time, seta time , seat time
6) Still running power steering? Remove it to save weight and HP loss from pully.
7) Underdrive pully
 
Done most of this list. I am concerned about taking off the power steering even though most of the cars out there have taken it off. Just worried about if I get spun will I be able to make quick corrections at low speed...
 
Don't know if this is allowed or has been mentioned but how about a port job on the head, tb, intake and exhaust mani? Do they really pull these parts off to check? its still "stock"
 
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpWXnWCtIWo]IMCA Sport Compact Super Nationals A-Main - YouTube[/ame]

someone elses in car cam at boone supernationals, I'm the red and white 7n, long video, I screwed up on a restart (was in 5th instead of 3rd), finished 8th I think, out of 53 cars
 
NEED SOME HELP, I have been trying some things to make the race car faster and have run into some issues. car = 2.4 galant block (4g64), 1g head (4g63), turbo fuel pump (rewired), stock ECU (rules). I was running turbo cams until 2 weeks ago with 275cc galant injectors, the turbo cams were retarded about 3.5 degrees, the car very good, sometimes bogged a little in the corners(ran it that way for about a year). The competition is getting faster so I put a set of HKS264's in it, and it ran about the same but the bogging in the corners seemed to go away. I checked the plugs and looked like I was running lean (I am mixing E85 and premium gas, about 30-40% ethanol total) so I went to 390cc injectors and a turbo FPR, when I raced last night I was getting a popping/misfire above 6500 rpm...ANY IDEAS I'm thinking either weak fuel pump or FPR ?????
 
Actually valve springs was my thought when it was happening...but then I talked myself out of it...if it is valve springs I should be able to rev the engine to 7000 under no load and hold it there if it's valve related it should show up, if it's fuel related it probably won't
 
Not sure if this was listed.
But when you removed the balance shafts there is that balance shaft belt sprocket behind the timing sprocket...
Turning that into just a spacer would free up some rotating mass.
 
Can you do any porting in your class. THe exhaust manifold, o2 housing, and intake manifold really help out with torque numbers when ported. You can buy all the stuff and do it yourself.
 
I think that I found my problem, I rechecked my cam timing, I thought that I had the cams pretty much at zero, but I actually had the intake retarded about 3 degrees and the exhaust advanced about 4.5 degrees.
went from: overlap 36.5 LSA 114
intake 26 58 264 106
exhaust 73.5 10.5 264 121.5
to overlap 51 LSA 106
intake 26 58 264 106
exhaust 58.5 25.5 264 106.5
to get this I actually had to retard the exhaust cam a whole tooth and the 3 degrees extra from the added 6mm deck height difference for the 2.4

OMG is sound MEAN, got some lope at idle...can't wait til the race on friday
 
Can you do any porting in your class. THe exhaust manifold, o2 housing, and intake manifold really help out with torque numbers when ported. You can buy all the stuff and do it yourself.
its a not turbo but but what we do with the stockers around he is do a ruff port job on parts then just sand blast them. we have had are intake n heads pulled and never had any of are red flag
if you are looking for the best porters that are known for doing cheat porting. contact headbytes n control flow
 
Yes it could be a bad injector, or weak fuel pump. You should be about 43.5 psi with the vac line dis connected.


His n/a regulator should be 43.5. If he installed a 1g turbo regulator the fp will go down since its around 38psi with the line off. 2g turbo is same pressure as 1g n/a.
 
Problem Solved, retimed the exhaust cam and the car ran great, got a bad start cause of a spin in front of me but was catching a really fast car once I got through traffic. WOW the car will hardly idle when cold, heck of a lope,

One more question for the N/A guys, would an exhaust MOP of 106.5 or 114 degrees be better for 4000+ RPM power. I wrote the cam specs in my previous post.
 
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