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Need help getting air can bolt off.

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Dubtecate

Probationary Member
9
0
Jun 29, 2006
Palm Coast, Florida
Hi guys, I tried to come up with some good key words so I could search for this but not having any luck. Anyway, I can't get the bolt off of the air can so I can further modify it. I will attach the image so you can see what I am talking about. The bolt on the right came right out. The bolt on the left just spins. Any suggestions? I don't feel anything on the opposite side that would be allowing it to spin.

My apologies if this has been asked a 100 times.

**EDIT** Photo removed because I exceeded my quota
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
See if you can pry up on the head as your losening it. That usually works for me. Goodluck.

I did try that but it didn't work. I will give it another shot though. As said above I am afraid the threads are crossed. I will try prying up again before drilling out though.
 
Dubtecate said:
I did try that but it didn't work. I will give it another shot though. As said above I am afraid the threads are crossed. I will try prying up again before drilling out though.

Hey, I dont have a 1G...but it looks like you can un-clamp the bov piping and bring off the whole piece all together then work on it with it off the car. Is that possible?
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
Hey, I dont have a 1G...but it looks like you can un-clamp the bov piping and bring off the whole piece all together then work on it with it off the car. Is that possible?


Yes, and it's a good idea.

The only real purpose of that bracket seems to be to hold the upper intercooler line in place. I have it removed with no problems at all. Cut it, drill it, whatever works. It will be fine.
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
Hey, I dont have a 1G...but it looks like you can un-clamp the bov piping and bring off the whole piece all together then work on it with it off the car. Is that possible?


Good call on that. I will do that if prying up doesn't work.
 
Dubtecate said:
Good call on that. I will do that if prying up doesn't work.

Alright, let us know how it works out. I have been going over alot of my previous mods trying to clean all the messes I made in the motor. So I see where you comming from, not wanting to cut up stuff. Unfortunately I can't Un-do most of what I did so spiffing things up will just have to suffice for now. Goodluck Keep us posted.
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
Alright, let us know how it works out. I have been going over alot of my previous mods trying to clean all the messes I made in the motor. So I see where you comming from, not wanting to cut up stuff. Unfortunately I can't Un-do most of what I did so spiffing things up will just have to suffice for now. Goodluck Keep us posted.

Ok, I was able to take the can off with the pipe connected. Thanks for the advice it was very helpful. yeah, I don't like cutting and hacking any more than is necessary.
 
Dubtecate said:
Ok, I was able to take the can off with the pipe connected. Thanks for the advice it was very helpful. yeah, I don't like cutting and hacking any more than is necessary.

Nice, if anything else, drill it out and run a nut and bolt to keep a clean look. Your putting on an airfilter? Pics when your done.
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
Nice, if anything else, drill it out and run a nut and bolt to keep a clean look. Your putting on an airfilter? Pics when your done.

I'm doing a few things while I have the can off.

1. I'm using a dremel tool to cut away more of the can. So far its coming out very nice.

2. The previous owner already had a K&N filter installed and snorkal removed. I used a K&N cleaning kit to clean the filter element. It was REALLY nasty looking.

3. I removed the bottom honeycomb piece on the MAS. I found this mod on the VFAQ site.

I will post pics when I'm finished.
 
Dubtecate said:
I'm doing a few things while I have the can off.

1. I'm using a dremel tool to cut away more of the can. So far its coming out very nice.

2. The previous owner already had a K&N filter installed and snorkal removed. I used a K&N cleaning kit to clean the filter element. It was REALLY nasty looking.

3. I removed the bottom honeycomb piece on the MAS. I found this mod on the VFAQ site.

I will post pics when I'm finished.

Make sure you can compensate for the honeycomb removed, sounds like you have it under control. WHen I cleaned my filter the water was almost black it was nasty.
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
Make sure you can compensate for the honeycomb removed, sounds like you have it under control. WHen I cleaned my filter the water was almost black it was nasty.

Ok, I'm all done. Uh oh, what was I supposed to do to compensate? I took it out for a spin and MAN it feels great. I really think the difference I am noticing is from cleaning the filter element though. My water was black when I cleaned mine too.

It idles good at the moment. There is an occasional sputter because of some seafoam I put in the gas though.
 

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Dubtecate said:
Ok, I'm all done. Uh oh, what was I supposed to do to compensate? I took it out for a spin and MAN it feels great. I really think the difference I am noticing is from cleaning the filter element though. My water was black when I cleaned mine too.

It idles good at the moment. There is an occasional sputter because of some seafoam I put in the gas though.

Looks, good. and Yea I noticed a difference when I cleaned mine as well. That water was nasty. Also I like the angle of the cut you made. If I were you I would go to auto zone and get their thin black door stripping and put it around the cut it will look 100X better. Goodluck.

As for compensation, Those honeycombs read how much air is being pulled in, amont other things. If your car is getting air that it doesnt know about..then you are going to run lean. Also this is fact for a 2g and I can imagine it being different for a 1G. So yea what you removed reads air. If I were you I would toss it back in OR get a logger and an AFC so you can watch what your car is doing and make some minor adjustments, I REALLY would. GOodluck.
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
As for compensation, Those honeycombs read how much air is being pulled in, amont other things. If your car is getting air that it doesnt know about..then you are going to run lean. Also this is fact for a 2g and I can imagine it being different for a 1G. So yea what you removed reads air. If I were you I would toss it back in OR get a logger and an AFC so you can watch what your car is doing and make some minor adjustments, I REALLY would. GOodluck.



Same for the 1G. If you read the VFAQ instructions they (both, I think) mention the author putting it back to stock after running in to problems, particularly at idle and partial throttle (even after attempting to compensate)

I honestly don't understand that a community that so vehemently opposes venting BOVs due to unmetered air can possibly recomend removing half your MAF and letting a ton of unmetered air in. :confused: :notgood:
 
xveganxcowboyx said:
Same for the 1G. If you read the VFAQ instructions they (both, I think) mention the author putting it back to stock after running in to problems, particularly at idle and partial throttle (even after attempting to compensate)

I honestly don't understand that a community that so vehemently opposes venting BOVs due to unmetered air can possibly recomend removing half your MAF and letting a ton of unmetered air in. :confused: :notgood:

Not to seem ignorant or anything, but I have been following DSM's for a while before joining this site. I learned a while back that Buschur knew how to get power out of these things. I read about this mod on his website.

http://www.buschurracing.com/dsm-stage1.htm

It has a caveat that 2G owners should NOT remove the bottom honeycomb. Doesn't mention anything about 1G. I'm not claiming to be right... just did my research before hacking up my car. Maybe there shouldn't be a VFAQ showing how to do this mod if isn't good for the car WTF
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
Looks, good. and Yea I noticed a difference when I cleaned mine as well. That water was nasty. Also I like the angle of the cut you made. If I were you I would go to auto zone and get their thin black door stripping and put it around the cut it will look 100X better. Goodluck.

As for compensation, Those honeycombs read how much air is being pulled in, amont other things. If your car is getting air that it doesnt know about..then you are going to run lean. Also this is fact for a 2g and I can imagine it being different for a 1G. So yea what you removed reads air. If I were you I would toss it back in OR get a logger and an AFC so you can watch what your car is doing and make some minor adjustments, I tenREALLY would. GOodluck.

Thanks for the tip on the door stripping. I'll check into that. I tried to get it as clean as possible but the door stripping would be a nice touch. As for the compensation you have my attention. I will try to work a data logger into my budget asap.
 
Dubtecate said:
Not to seem ignorant or anything, but I have been following DSM's for a while before joining this site. I learned a while back that Buschur knew how to get power out of these things. I read about this mod on his website.

http://www.buschurracing.com/dsm-stage1.htm

It has a caveat that 2G owners should NOT remove the bottom honeycomb. Doesn't mention anything about 1G. I'm not claiming to be right... just did my research before hacking up my car. Maybe there shouldn't be a VFAQ showing how to do this mod if isn't good for the car WTF


Argh! I just wrote a long reply and accidently closed the window instead of posting.

Anyway, I'm going off a combination of what I've read and heard as well as my own judgement based on what I know about MAF's and their relation to engine operation. It simply seems like a bad idea to me.

From VFAQ:
I am glad that I chose to remove the lower chamber in a manner that allowed me to put it back in, because after over a month of screwing around with fuel pressure, the AFC, and idle control, I finally decided to put the lower chamber back in to see what would happen.

I had been having low speed drivability problems. When the rpms would fall from 4k or above, the ISC was not able to catch it, and the car would die over half the time. I set the base idle to 1100 rpm, and it didn't die anymore, but it did have a bit of a surging problem, but not too serious. I drove it like this for many weeks. It also was very "jerky" at low speeds and throttle positions less than 10%, the car would start bucking, requiring continuous clutch finesse at parking lot speeds.

I decided the 1100 rpm idle and +/- 500 rpm surging was just not my "style" so I messed around with everything trying to make it better. I put the lower chamber back in and lowered the idle to 750 and blammo everything worked like a "stock" car.

So my finally diagnosis is that with the lower chamber removed, at low airflow rates the air would easily flow through the "hole" and hardly any of it would go through the MAF counter, as a result, I had all of the problems above. At high airflow rates, a great deal of air would get sucked through the MAF counter, even though it was more restrictive, and it could be tuned. Many people design some kind of "flapper" so that at low airflow rates the air is forced through the MAF counter and at high airflow rates, the flap opens and air can go through both chambers. I haven't explored this idea yet. I think I am just going to leave the lower chamber in there and start looking for a 2G MAF.
 
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