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Need help. Crankshaft Pulley

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2GCruiser

10+ Year Contributor
87
0
Apr 4, 2011
East Bethel, Minnesota
Hello all,

While in the process of changing my timing belt, my crankshaft pulley was damn near impossible to get off and while torquing down on the 3 jaw puller this happened...

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snapped off a chunk of the pulley. I don't think I can use the puller again on it. does anyone have any ideas??? this is my daily driver and i'm pretty stressed out right now.

thanks for all your time in advance.

Nick

edit: PS. the timing belt is shredding apart so it needs to be replaced no matter what. thanks
 
Wow thats definetly a bad problem. Ive never seen this happen and ive done bout 20 t belt changes... Well the pulleys garbage so you need new one. Either got back oem or grab a fluidampner pully. Do not get a solid pulley as my friends ruined his bottom end. As faf as getting rest off heat the PULLEY not crank, up and try tapping it at 12/6 and 3/9 oclock positions. Goodluck, ima follow thread to see how you do.
 
One quick question, you had mentioned that your timing belt is shredding. Do you know what is causing this? THe reason why I am asking is because I rebuilt my engine a year ago because my timing belt was rubbing on the oil pump causing it to break and bend valves.
 
I'm going to guess you didn't search before you did this. Its a super common mistake/problem. In order to do this on the 420a, you need a Chrysler specific puller, the universal 3 jaw will not work. Another trick you might be able to use is with a torch, trying to heat up the pulley. Will cause it to expand slightly and then very quickly try to take it off. May be worth a shot. I know when installing a new one, I have herd of people throwing them in there oven for a bit before installation to have it slide on easier.
 
autozone or some place like should have one to rent. Just make sure to specify that you need the Chrysler pulley, not the universal
 
I guess I have herd of a universal working (in rare occasions) but normally it doesn't turn out well. Trying to remember back to when I installed my UDP. I think one of the main reasons was the universal 3jaw puller was just to short.
 
Ill stop by autozone sometime to get the part number of the puller I used. I believe it was the 5 ton one. Also the stock bolt will be too short when removing the pulley, I've learned that a bolt that holds the cab to the frame on chevy pickups has the same thread. That's what I've always used
 
I've used a 3 jaw with no problems. There's flat sections on the back of the pulley that the hooks fit into.

I guess I have herd of a universal working (in rare occasions) but normally it doesn't turn out well. Trying to remember back to when I installed my UDP. I think one of the main reasons was the universal 3jaw puller was just to short.

Ill stop by autozone sometime to get the part number of the puller I used. I believe it was the 5 ton one. Also the stock bolt will be too short when removing the pulley, I've learned that a bolt that holds the cab to the frame on chevy pickups has the same thread. That's what I've always used

A word of caution though because I too have used a regular puller, because the pulley is cast you stand a good chance of breaking off one of those little tabs that ED1380 showed. I'm guessing thats what the original op did but cant see because the link is not working. When I did it 7 years ago, feel old now, i had to take apart the puller and reverse the arms so it pulled from the outside. That was before I knew there is a special puller, safe bet is get the right tool for the job but to each their own.
 
the universal pulley puller you buy at Advanced auto parts will not work straight out the box. I bought a universal puller and took the cone off the tip to expose a hole or hollow tip on the puller screw. Then found a long rod that i had laying around and pushed it through. just make sure the rod is long enough to clear the crank.
 
Whatever you do, dont use a torch or anything else to attempt to heat the pulley; youll cook the crap out of the main seal and maybe even dick up the bearing as well by turning the oil in, near and on it into that chunky caramel crap...
 
Those are the same tabs the Chrysler puller uses so if it breaks, it was gonna break either way

Crap thinking back I think your right, for some reason I thought the fingers where a little deeper or wider then the general one but now that I think about that it probably doesn't matter much. Makes you wonder why someone hasnt made a puller that you can bolt some plates onto the back of so you can get a greater surface area to pull from.
 
I would suggest some pb-blaster. The crank pulley on saturn engines "requires" a jaw puller, but I have literally never needed to use a jaw puller, it just took losts of penetrating lubricant (pb blaster, liquid wrench, etc) and prying until I could get a wiggle in the pulley and get it off.
 
Hmm........ok, the 3 jaw puller will work. The operative word here is "well". I have used both. The problem with the 3 jaw puller is, depending on the condition/strength of adhesion of the stock pulley, it can cause problems. Big, yucky problems (that's right I used that highly technical term :thumb:). It does not grab, pull and hold as well as the Chrysler puller. There are a multitude of stories about the 3 jaw ruining the pulley; not working and/or bending the puller itself. The Chrysler puller allows you the piece of mind to pull with confidence. It is stouter and holds center better. I have used it on pulley's that have been on for literally over 100k miles on the New England shore and have sat for 2 years. Came off like butta!

By far it is the best advice for pulling the stock pulley. It can save lots of time and blood swear and tears.

MB
 
Not to contradict anyone But I was using the Chrysler puller and it still broke a tab of my pulley. Just bad luck I guess
 
I'm wondering if he's got the center of the puller pushing agaist the pulley itself.I had to cut a piece of steal rod to put through the center hole.Then I put the center of the 3-jaw puller against the rod and the pulley came right off.I know they make this center piece for removing the pulley,I dont remember what its called.

I'm wondering if he's got the center of the puller pushing agaist the pulley itself.I had to cut a piece of steal rod to put through the center hole.Then I put the center of the 3-jaw puller against the rod and the pulley came right off.I know they make this center piece for removing the pulley,I dont remember what its called.
You can make your own center piece.Get a piece of rod that is 3/4 " longer then the center bolt.(do not use a long bolt, the threads will tear up your crank).Once you cut your piece of rod,round off one end with a grinder.Then get a good drill bit and drill a hole in the CENTER of the other end.That is were the tip of the puller will seat.Good luck!:thumb:
 
uhmmm... when I changed my crank pulley, we wasn't using the 3 jaw puller, we used a 2 jaw universal... and we placed the jaws next to the flat sections of the pulley (those places are stronger) we did a little pull, the rotate the puller, pull again, then rotate, pull again, unbolt the bolt a little and repeat; after 30 or 40 minutes the pulley was out... we did it like that because my stock pulley didn't had one of the flat sections on it, prob got broken by previoss owner...

hope it helps...
 
im new here but i used a 3 jaw puller 2 ton universal form auto zone worked fine the first time then i had too take the crank pulley back off....(my timing was off a tooth) and damn it stripped the bolt got a new and did the same thing....going to get the Chrysler puller
 
+1 for the Chrysler Pulley from Autozones Loan-a-tool program :D.

Gonna be pulling mine today. I'll keep you updated.
 
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