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poppabear

10+ Year Contributor
113
1
Apr 22, 2009
Dayton, Ohio
Ok, i'll start from the begining ...

I bought a 95' Tsi awd from a guy in KY for $1500 with 180k

body mint
interior mint

The car jumped time due to tensioner failure.. Bent some valves ect ..
I bought a 1g head with good valves and put the valves in my 2g head ..
New timing belt, tensioner and component kit. Put the car in time at 0 deg.

Checked compression, at the time was at 150 across the board.

Bypassed BCS, with boost set at 14psi.
New plugs, NGK Platnium
New plug wires

Went to the track and ran a 16.00 flat in 1/4 mile
I knew right away something was wrong ...

I then installed the Evo 3 16G with the Punishment FMIC Kit, pushing 15psi (i haven't done the BLT yet, however holds strong at 15 at WOT).

Went to the track lastnight and ran a 15.61 ....

I'm totally disapointed in these times ...
I will post all other times on the slips in detail when i get home tonight, its kinda hard with the iphone :)

anyways, i need to know what things should i be checking out to figure out the issue..

I know it can be tons of different factors, but i need some advice from you pro dsmer's ...

I do believe my stock clutch is slowing me down out of the whole... Act 2100 coming soon.

Thanks in advance
 
anyone ?

I could really use any advise i can get from anyone ...

I did a boost leak test and found that the BOV gasket was leaking bad ...

Fixed that then retested .. found the j-pipe is leaking at the gasket .. i need to still fix that as i ran out of time tonight to finish it ..

One thing i did notice is that it takes forever for this 16g to hit full boost (no shaft play) ... I assume this is due to boost leaks throughout the intake system .. seems that it doesn't hit full boost until close to 3800 rpms ...

Between this and my clutch slipping in first gear on a 5500 rpm launch is whats killing most my track time.

If anyone would like to add a few comments please do so.

Thanks
 
You need to figure that the 16g is a much bigger turbo than the t-(too small)25 which full spools at a lower rpm. If you are hitting full boost at 3800 I think that's pretty good. Find and fix all of those leaks and you'll notice a big difference.

I can't even got WOT on my evo316g because of massive creep and spiking.
 
are you talking about mechanical timing? your ignition timing should be 5 deg that would explain if it feels a little slow especially off the line, also do a blt. The plugs will be fine im running ngk iridiums 1 heat range colder, platinum and iridium are a better plug then copper so if your using ngk you should be good
 
Well definately blt. Then fix all the ones you find, and then blt again. I believe the evo3 should spool up quicker than that, so the fixed leaks will help that. Do you have the proper supporting fuel? I would also log in dsmlink your timing. Try adding more timing. It would also help greatly to see a time slip or two. I would also check your tune or re-tune as well.
 
Ok, i'll start from the begining ...

I bought a 95' Tsi awd from a guy in KY for $1500 with 180k

body mint
interior mint

The car jumped time due to tensioner failure.. Bent some valves ect ..
I bought a 1g head with good valves and put the valves in my 2g head ..
New timing belt, tensioner and component kit. Put the car in time at 0 deg.

Checked compression, at the time was at 150 across the board.

Bypassed BCS, with boost set at 14psi.
New plugs, NGK Platnium
New plug wires

Went to the track and ran a 16.00 flat in 1/4 mile
I knew right away something was wrong ...

I then installed the Evo 3 16G with the Punishment FMIC Kit, pushing 15psi (i haven't done the BLT yet, however holds strong at 15 at WOT).

Went to the track lastnight and ran a 15.61 ....

I'm totally disapointed in these times ...
I will post all other times on the slips in detail when i get home tonight, its kinda hard with the iphone :)

anyways, i need to know what things should i be checking out to figure out the issue..

I know it can be tons of different factors, but i need some advice from you pro dsmer's ...

I do believe my stock clutch is slowing me down out of the whole... Act 2100 coming soon.

Thanks in advance




Act 2100 coming soon. id stay away from a act 2100 on your 7bolt i would look into a different clutch setup such as south bend clutches there stage 2 Kevlar is great etc
 
Anyone else have any comments on this ? I would like to check everything out and see if i can get any better track time by next time i go out there ...


Another thing i notice is it seems that i hit fuel cut at about 16 psi under WOT ... i know others run 16 psi on there 16g/14b setup on stock injectors that have no issue all the way to redline ....

Not sure if this hints to any known issues..

Thanks
 
When you put the 1g valves in did you replace the valve guides in the 2g head? Those tend to crack/bend in the event of a timing belt break. Also, since the valves came out of a different head, in order to get a perfect seal on the valve seat, did you lap the valves against the valve seats with valve lapping compound?

Also, why didn't you just install the 1g head?
 
New plugs, NGK Platnium
Big no-no right there. Platinum are the WORST plug made since platinum is a horrible electrical conductor-more of a resistor than conductor.

NGK BPR6ES are what our motors love to run on since the electrical circuitry was designed for premium operation with these plugs - which are copper loaded by the way. And, if they run too hot, head to BPR7ES being a colder plug.

Do a switch-out on your plugs and see if any difference is noticed.

Have fun on the track - DSM
 
When you put the 1g valves in did you replace the valve guides in the 2g head? Those tend to crack/bend in the event of a timing belt break. Also, since the valves came out of a different head, in order to get a perfect seal on the valve seat, did you lap the valves against the valve seats with valve lapping compound?

Also, why didn't you just install the 1g head?

No i didn't use lapping compound, However as stated above compression was tested good at 150 across the board, so i would think they sealed fine.

Valve guides where checked and they where not bent or cracked.

I didn't want to worry about rewiring sensors and whatnot on the 2g - 1g head swap. Also there would have been no point in it really if i didn't have the intake mani & exhaust mani for the 1g head as the 2g mani's would have just kept it restricted.

I don't believe this is a compression issue however just to insure that compression is still good i will test it soon and post back.

Thanks
 
Big no-no right there. Platinum are the WORST plug made since platinum is a horrible electrical conductor-more of a resistor than conductor.

NGK BPR6ES are what our motors love to run on since the electrical circuitry was designed for premium operation with these plugs - which are copper loaded by the way. And, if they run too hot, head to BPR7ES being a colder plug.

Do a switch-out on your plugs and see if any difference is noticed.

Have fun on the track - DSM

I will take your advise and swap them out.

Thanks
 
** UPDATE **

Just wanted to tell everyone to be looking for a build thread by myself with tons of pics, i will be ordering parts soon and as they come in i will start the thread.

Decided since this motor just had o many issues .. leaks, ect i was going to rebuild everything with some upgrades added.

Thanks for everything!
 
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