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need aftermarket stereo wiring help

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That demo mode is a bugger. I have to push in on the select button to get to the manual mode and then turn that thing off by twisting it one way or another to change it every time I unhook my battery. I have the same units in all of my cars but it isn't identical to yours. The 9 volt battery trick is a simple way to make sure you are working with the speaker that you THINK you are working with so you always get it wired left, right, front and back correctly. I have installed stereo's since WAY back in the 70's so it's nothing new. If you have questions just ask away, there are a couple of us here willing to help you out.
 
PlanZero, your constant power isn't hooked up to a constant 12 volt source or it wouldn't default to demo mode every time you turn your unit on. You have the same deal as skittlezfersur does. Speaker wiring will be the same or very similar as far as colors from the head unit goes so you need a dedicated constant battery source even if you have to run a new constant from the battery into the car. That will fix the demo mode and hold all of your presets.
 
It's in storage until spring since it has a rod knock.... :( If I go out to the unit I will see if I can get to it easy and take pictures. I have something goofy back behind there anyway as my lights in my accessory gauges go on and off, but I didn't wire them, it came that way.
 
ok so i got the dome lights to work the bulbs have a plus and minus on either side of them so i switched it over and they both work door clickers that make it turn off and on work great.

what is confusing is the hole wiring thing because i have searched for 2 years off and on about the wiring when i plug up the huge YELLOW/BLUE/RED wires connected together thats the only way my stereo turns on but in the diagram all those wires go separate I've had the wires working before but the orange with stripe wire to illumination wire wasn't hooked up more the black/yellow one heres a few pictures I've used to try and work on it
i have a after market stereo called KENWOOD - KDC-MP258U
i have 2 wiring harnesses for the car same plugging all fuses are correct even the fuse on the stereo works
(P.S i really am greatful for your help)
Car info - 1995 / mitsubishi eclipse / Rs / Non turbo
i was thinking of buying the original wiring harness from a salvage from NC he has over 150 mitsubishi eclipse there
every time i try and work on the stereo i use those red plugging wire tubes and crimp it so its good and working and when i get confused i take it off n it shortens the OEM wire so i was thinking i should buy the oem wire from him install it with the plugs then start from there ... unless u think other wise let me know heres some pics I've used for info ......

1990 got it right

So ignore every other wire for now with out shorting out any (electrical tape works good$

You really shouldn't have wired the +12 v power (RED) and
(BLUE) accessory together


On the aftermarket radio harness there's labels so I'm not going to state those wires ,

so assuming the blue acc and red constant 12v wires stated above and they are correct for your radio harness than you really shouldn't have any issues with the radio working

You should of wired your radios constant power wire to your battery /Or any wire that always has 12v no matter what check

Acc BLUE should be a switched 12v signal that will cut out when cranking over the engine

Get a multimeter set on volts "dc 20" and test your wires prior to installing the deck using just the plastic harness connector for your radio

I've always ignored the illumination wire and the dimmer wire

Btw since the harness is already cut you really should be soldering and using Heat shrink and a little electrical tape never hurts
I'll never use crimp connectors though there bad news when solder works flawlessly


What exact wires do you have for the factory harness can you take pictures

Had a long day at work Srry for the late response,
looks like you have some more help
 
this wire connecter is what i have for mine i haven't taken a pic of my cars harness but its the same one it snowed out last night so i might go take pics i took the console out again
 

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what about this hole dealy bob where they say hook up the black/white wire to this
n then it says another black/white to another wire i don't get it
 
Skittlezfersur, from this internet source this should be your cars wires colors -

http://www.modifiedlife.com/1995-mitsubishi-eclipse-car-stereo-wiring-diagram/

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Car Stereo Wiring Diagram

Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/Black
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue
Car Radio Ground Wire: Chassis
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Green/White
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Black/Yellow
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: White/Black
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4″ Speakers
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Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black/White
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black/White
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6″ x 9″ Speakers
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Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Side Panels
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow/Blue
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Blue
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow/Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Red

Since the left and right FRONT speakers seem to use the same color of wires the 9 volt battery trick is in order for you to get them wired correctly but the rest should be very simple IF the source I got this from is correct on the cars harness colors. Simple Google search is where this came from.

I went ahead and broke it down for you in the simplest form possible so follow this:

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Car Stereo Wiring Diagram Stereo wire’s
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/Black -> Yellow
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue -> Red
Car Radio Ground Wire: Chassis -> Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Green/White
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Black/Yellow
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: White/Black -> Blue
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A

Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4″ Speakers Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors

Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black/White -> White
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black -> White/Black
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black/White -> Grey
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black -> Grey/Black

Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6″ x 9″ Speakers Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Side Panels

Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow/Blue -> Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Blue -> Green/Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow/Red -> Purple
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Red -> Purple/Black


I hope this helps out! :)
 

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why would u ignore illumination and dimmer
Because the decks I've installed have never needed them,

If your harness has the wires than go for it (my 1g didn't and every other car I've installed stereos into )
, I find there a pointless option like a reverse camera LOL

You will have extra wires on the radio side if you don't have an amplifier,
it's usually a blue with a white stripe but ignore it if you have no amps to install

But 1990 pretty much awnsered the remaining question
there's not much to wire.
it all becomes a game of connect the dots

after you verify each wire is in the correct place plug the new radio in and see what happens


That 9v test will help you a lot tho !

If this were a 1g you would have to wire the door and front speakers together

Tbh You should hook up the bare minimum and test away
You have a multimeter right ??

Info on Demo mode should be in the manual

If your still having issues than triple check your wires and again
Get rid of those crimp connectors those don't belong in a car , your better of twisting the wires than using those
Good luck
 
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still doesn't explain why the the info about the wires say for different speakers they assume ur gonna have 2 sets of bulk/white and just white theres 1 set for each
 
Do you have the wires posted by 1990 a few posts up? I seen the picture you posted of the radio harness but I want yours

He posted the factory radio harness wires for you

The wires from the aftermarket deck that you have are labeled
Example : rear right (RR)
so I'm assuming you have that part good

If the wires posted by 1990 are not the wires you have in your car than we need to source a new schematic



Grab a piece of paper and tell me what you got,

I'll literally tell you what wires to connect AFTER we verify everything's correct although 1990 already did that

take a picture even let me see what your working with here (not the aftermarket stereo harness ) the chopped factory harness

So your just haveing trouble with the speaker wires?
Again the 9v battery trick will give you pairs to work with



*You may need to run the front and door speakers in parallel if your deck has no option for front speakers and door speakers.
let's not worry about that until we need to although It looks like 1gs have 6 speakers where as 2gs have 4. So ignore this ^*

Let me know what you got I'll try and help you as much as I can but with out being there it's hard to know what the issue is

It's never fun figuring out what a previous owner did to your car

still doesn't explain why the the info about the wires say for different speakers they assume ur gonna have 2 sets of bulk/white and just white theres 1 set for each

But Don't worry about the same color speaker wires there both positive (+) worst case your front speakers won't work and you'll have to swap them,
The 9v battery will give you pairs!!
So it shouldn't be a biggie

Ps. This is why before I start soldering wires I get a piece of paper and I write everything down

I will then grab a multi meter and check to see if my schematic is correct


I want you to get this working
 
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I will add this, when I wired up my '98, I had to combine the door and dash speakers to the front outputs and wired the rear with just the rear outputs. It's confusing just a bit but the battery trick told me which wires went to which speaker. After that I had to use a multimeter to determine which wire was a ground or negative wire. Other than that, it was very easy. It didn't have a factory amp but had six speakers total. Combine the 2 left front negative wires and the two front positive wires. At that point the ohm meter was handy to check what was the "mating" negative but in all reality, the speaker really doesn't care that much which wire is negative and which one is positive. Yes it makes a difference but just in the tone quality and sometimes it makes no difference, but it won't blow up the deck. In a subwoofer setup (which I was doing in the '70's when no one new what a "sub"woofer was) it changes the "phase" of the speaker. Thanks GuitarKid for your help! I think we have given the OP just about all we can without just doing it for him, it really isn't hard but if you are "electronically challenged" or are just plain scared of wires I understand, but that's all this is, just wires.

The most important part is wiring up the unit to power up, the speaker wiring is easy breezy so get the 12v constant, 12v accessory and ground all correct first then move on to the speakers after you have a working head unit. Make SURE the speaker wires are not touching ANYTHING or you will blow the final transistors in your unit and have no sound so tape them up before you wire the power to the unit!
Thanks again GuitarKid!
 
ill upload pics or a video of what i currently have connected n such n then ill wait for the stuff to come in the mail to connect it, and maybe some pics of my rebuilt eclipse
also don't have my manual for the kenwood stereo so ill have to look it up online
 
so since theres just one of each white/black --- white i can hook those up to the minus n plus of the other wires ... ill take some pics

appreciate the help guys
 
ok guys so i tried the wiring today i don't have the red clamp wire things but i used duct tape for a little bit
so i hooked up all the necesary wires, hooked up yellow from my harness to the black n red and yellow like it says on so many diff pics
did the purples n greens left white with stripe off but the stereo didn't turn on
it only turned on when i hooked (blue from the car harness) to the stereo harness with red n yellow
so all those 3 turned it on

i get the clamp things n a day or too so ill put the right ones together with those n then idk from there
 

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Do you have access to a voltmeter to check for voltage on your chassis wires? It is kind of a necessity. I bet it only came on when the key was turned on too didn't it? It appears that the constant 12 volt feed wire that should be Red/Black from your cars harness doesn't have the 12 constant volts from the battery. I would get some extra wire and run it straight from the battery, through the rubber steering shaft seal on the firewall under the brake booster (under the hood) and use that to power the stereo on its Yellow wire, then hook your red wire to the blue and of course ground the black wire and it should power up when you turn on the key and all presets should stay and also the clock should stay on time. THEN move on to the speakers. Your stereo needs a CONSTANT 12v power to keep the clock on and the presets all set and also so you can turn off the DEMO mode and it won't come back on. Your unit is VERY similar to mine and only slightly different so I feel very confident that it will work once you do what I have stated. IF you had a volt meter, you could check for 12 volts on the Red/Black wire from your car harness and I bet it says ZERO since it will only power up when you hook up to the SWITCHED power which is Blue to your Red and Yellow wires, is that what is happening?
 
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Check all of your fuses, especially the one marked RADIO or something similar, it could be blown and that is the problem with the Red/Black wire being dead. I would be checking not only the fuses under the dash but also all of the ones under the hood in that fuse box.
 
Looking at image 4591, you have a Black/Red wire on the Yellow to your deck. I am not sure that is the correct wire, DSM's have some of the weirdest wiring for stereo equipment that I have seen, well Honda's are weird too but that's not for here. Do you see any RED with black wire that you aren't using. Surely their is a constant hot wire in there if it isn't a fuse that has been blown which would explain this all. You see I am here still hanging in there with you until we get it going. Check what I have said like fuses and testing for 12v or running a dedicated wire from the battery (with a inline fuse). :applause:
 
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