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Necessary to port wastegate hole

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elterror

10+ Year Contributor
115
0
Feb 13, 2011
FORT WORTH, Texas
I have recently removed the wastegate flapper and now ready to install my O2 housing with external wastegate. But before i do any installing should i get my wastegate hole ported bigger? How will it benefit me? Or should i just pass it and put the damn thing on already :D?
 
I have recently removed the wastegate flapper and now ready to install my O2 housing with external wastegate. But before i do any installing should i get my wastegate hole ported bigger? How will it benefit me? Or should i just pass it and put the damn thing on already :D?

Since your external gate is in the o2 housing, it would benefit to have the hole ported bigger to allow more air to pass through to the wastegate for optimal boost control.
 
Yea thats what i thought, but really how far more can you ported out? Was reading as well that it makes it more fragile to cracking?

You have a decent amount of meat to port out but no need to go too crazy. A few millimeters around and you shall be good to go:thumb:
 
Sure it does. Haven't you seen all the threads on porting the WG hole on badly creeping 16gs?? More air bypassing the turbine equals better boost control:thumb:
 
Sure it does. Haven't you seen all the threads on porting the WG hole on badly creeping 16gs?? More air bypassing the turbine equals better boost control:thumb:

But all the ones i have seen with boost creep are with the stock internal actuator and are doing it to try to eliminate boost creep. I am going with a Tial external on the O2 housing, which is completely different you know?
 
OK, look at it this way small stock WG hole BEFORE the larger EWG inlet or enlarge the stock small WG hole to match the EWG inlet. Which one do you think would flow better?LOL
 
OK, look at it this way small stock WG hole BEFORE the larger EWG inlet or enlarge the stock small WG hole to match the EWG inlet. Which one do you think would flow better?LOL


:coy::D Yea im just not thinking so smart right now, i guess it will be a good idea to do!! But that will be another question.....HOW DO I PORT IT :p i have a drill? haha
 
Things like this is why I bit the bullet and picked up a Dremel. Best 85 bucks spent and it came with many attachments to do an assortment of things. A drill would work, you would just have to buy a special carbide bit for the cast metal type. Home depot had what I needed for less then $10. Hopefully some others would chime in with some other possible methods that they used but this is what worked for me:)
 
Jimmy, I would use the dremel for eliminating boost creep on internal wastegate since you don't take much off but, going external WG wouldn't you want the hole as big as possible?

If that's the case and hole size doesn't matter, I would use an air compressor with it's friend Mr. GnarlyCarbideBit :sneaky: And then clean up the roughness with a Dremel

Let me know if that's a bad idea :ohdamn:
 
Jimmy, I would use the dremel for eliminating boost creep on internal wastegate since you don't take much off but, going external WG woulnd't you want the hole as big as possible?

I'm with you on that one. Seems to me you would want to port that thing out as much as possible. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but seems logical to me.
 
Jimmy, I would use the dremel for eliminating boost creep on internal wastegate since you don't take much off but, going external WG woulnd't you want the hole as big as possible?

If that's the case and hole size doesn't matter, I would use an air compressor with it's friend Mr. GnarlyCarbideBit :sneaky: And then clean up the roughness with a Dremel

Let me know if that's a bad idea :ohdamn:

WES_393 and NHerron, you guys are spot on. I was just saying only because not everyone has a air compressor handy. Either tool would not take long as the WG hole isn't as large to open like trying to hog out the turbine inlet/outlet..:p Thanks for chiming in fellas.
 
Cool thanks, I wasn't sure and just throwing ideas out :thumb: My angle bit holder (which holds 1/4" bits) was around $10 from the local Harbor Freight and the bit was another $10 from a good hardware store. Man does it remove material fast! Some things are okay from HF like my awesome prybar set but, NOT CUTOFF WHEELS! Man those suuuck.
 
Dremel will take a lifetime. I started using a drill, then over the years burnt out 3 RotoZips. You can safely port to 32mm diameter with no problems at all. Thats the biggest i ever went for internal gate for the TRE 34mm flapper. Anything bigger isnt needed if your turbine housing and O2 are properly ported as well. The fallacy is that the internal WG causes creeping, but its not the ONLY contributor to it.
 
Jimmy, I would use the dremel for eliminating boost creep on internal wastegate since you don't take much off but, going external WG wouldn't you want the hole as big as possible?

If that's the case and hole size doesn't matter, I would use an air compressor with it's friend Mr. GnarlyCarbideBit :sneaky: And then clean up the roughness with a Dremel

Let me know if that's a bad idea :ohdamn:

I have an air compressor so what bit is that i need?
 
This site is pretty basic 1.\/ but it shows what you're looking for. On the internet you can find the bits easily with the reference "carbide burrs 1/4" 1/4in being the standard sized shank which is inserted into the chuck. I like the double cut burr compared to the single cut, it seems to not be so hard to control since it can be jumpy when rotating at so many RPM's.

Also, I hope your air compressor can keep up (large capacity tank) since the die grinder 2.\/ uses a lot of CFM. I got my air die grinder from harbor freight, it's pretty reliable and costs under $20. You can also use it for other automotive tasks with different attachments, such as rough polishing with a roloc pad 3.\/.

Anyway,
1. Carbide Burr
CARBIDE BURRS
2. Die grinder
Die grinder - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
3. Roloc pad
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...urce=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=TeyBT9m_DsOfiALx5ZC-Aw
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This site is pretty basic 1.\/ but it shows what you're looking for. On the internet you can find the bits easily with the reference "carbide burrs 1/4" 1/4in being the standard sized shank which is inserted into the chuck. I like the double cut burr compared to the single cut, it seems to not be so hard to control since it can be jumpy when rotating at so many RPM's.

Also, I hope your air compressor can keep up (large capacity tank) since the die grinder 2.\/ uses a lot of CFM. I got my air die grinder from harbor freight, it's pretty reliable and costs under $20. You can also use it for other automotive tasks with different attachments, such as rough polishing with a roloc pad 3.\/.

Anyway,
1. Carbide Burr
CARBIDE BURRS
2. Die grinder
Die grinder - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
3. Roloc pad
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...urce=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=TeyBT9m_DsOfiALx5ZC-Aw

Will a compressor with a tank standing at around 5ft+ tall be enough? And holding more then 100lbs? :D so what tip do i use with die grinder?
 
Will a compressor with a tank standing at around 5ft+ tall be enough? And holding more then 100lbs? :D so what tip do i use with die grinder?

That compressor should work fine. As for the bit I used something similar to the cylinder radius end shape C in the first link NHerron sent you. You are only making a small hole bigger so you don't need a fancy bit.:thumb:
 
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