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My turbo experience, Turboing my 93 Laser RS

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Just post here. You'll get a response within 24 hours from Kyle or me. Or if you are in a bind and want quick quick help cause you are in the middle of something, PM me.

You seem to have everything under control anyway.
 
TimG said:
Just post here. You'll get a response within 24 hours from Kyle or me. Or if you are in a bind and want quick quick help cause you are in the middle of something, PM me.

You seem to have everything under control anyway.
O.K., I really appreciate it Tim so I will start again this spring, I'm picking up money slowly but surely, changed my plans just a little:
I'm going to install the turbo with the low-comp. pistons first to show people it will run and to help them out a little, then I am rebuilding my engine with turbo internals, I know no oil squirters but I'm removing the balance shafts and i've heard that they improve oil pressure, thanks again and I look forward to this thread again!
 
Alright so it's springtime and I got all the needed parts gathered up, I restarted my turbo install today, got the manifold and turbo on, right now I'm drilling the holes for the oil drain pipe, I still need a o2 sensor housing and the turbo downpipe flange if anyone around Newak, Ohio has one, I'm just bolting on the turbo and I'll see how it will run before I do anything internally. I'll post the pics of the progress later tonight, James.
 
I'm using the 13g, less CFM so more security!

alright, sorry it took so long for me to post pictures, I been working, college, and turboing my car, so thanks for hanging in. MY CAR IS OFFICIALLY TURBOED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHOOO HOOO is it faster too! here are all the pics I promised!




oh, I am by the way not done, i still need to wire in the 390's and injector resistor pack, also clean and cover up the intercooler, recirculate the BOV, and Hook up the water lines to the throttle body lines, but i just disconnected the wastegate and it boosted 4PSI, I put 93 octane it before hand though.
 

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Man,towards the end of this thread I was thinkin "Aww man,he's never gonna finish it" just because of a few of the posts.I'm glad to see you completed the project and everything works.I myself am in the process of a turbo engine swap and that seemed hard enough.Congratulations man.
 
Thanks man, I'm putting in the injectors tonight and I'll see what it boosts to and how well it does. I'll post a link to a video when I complete it, so, does anyone have any questions at all about the conversion?
 
O.K., coolant lines are hooked up and it's boosting great, the wastegate is disconnected so I don't overboost, I just shift if I see it go to 5PSI, runs great with no idle problems and I can beat v8's no prob, I love the 9:1 compression pistond because they give you a little more power before the turbo spools, I'm probably going to cut the wastegate spring and just run 5PSI so the boost can come on earlier, right now it comes on about 3,200RPM and 5 PSI at about 3,700 on the 13G.
 
i haven't changed the injectors yet, the nstructions on VFAQ aren't workin for me, can anyone help? I don't want to go over 3 psi until there in, the color of the wires and the thickness of the is confusing me.
 
I'm guessing your talking about how to wire in the resistor pack for the larger injectors? Basically there is 2 wires going to each injector, a positive and a ground. You'r gonna have to cut the positive wire on each of the four injecotors. Your then gonna take one of the 4, doesnt matter which one and run that to your resistor pack(a positive feed going to injectors), there are 5 wires on the resistor pack. One is for the incoming power and the other four are for power to all four injectors where you will connect to all 4 spots that you cut(doesn't matter which injector the four wires go to. I think there is either 4 white wires and one black or 1 white and 4 blacks. It's color coded so its not hard to mess up. Hope that somewhat helps. I tried looking for the diagram pic, but i couldn't find it sorry
 
Thanks TimG, that is a very useful diagram, now I can wire them up, one more thing the boost was spiking to 8 PSI, the air fuel gauge didn't run rich but it shouldn't boost that much with the wastegate actuator arm disconnected, what the heck??? another thing, I left open a hole on the intake in hopes that it would run a little rich if it's losing metered air, but that shouldn't have anything to do with the boost spike, thanks for your help, James.
 
jwahl425 said:
Thanks TimG, that is a very useful diagram, now I can wire them up, one more thing the boost was spiking to 8 PSI, the air fuel gauge didn't run rich but it shouldn't boost that much with the wastegate actuator arm disconnected, what the heck??? another thing, I left open a hole on the intake in hopes that it would run a little rich if it's losing metered air, but that shouldn't have anything to do with the boost spike, thanks for your help, James.

Ok. First, an air fuel gauge is shit. There is no use for it other then a vague idea of what is going on and a fancy light show. Lose the gauge and buy a wideband kit.

Secondly, you left a whole open on the intake pipe. That's pretty stupid (no offence taken I hope). Go plug it or use it for what it's supposed to be used for. You aren't losing metered air, you are sucking in unmetered air and running lean. I hope after getting this in depth with the swap, that you realize the intake pipe isn't pressurized like the IC pipes.
 
TimG said:
Ok. First, an air fuel gauge is shit. There is no use for it other then a vague idea of what is going on and a fancy light show. Lose the gauge and buy a wideband kit.

Secondly, you left a whole open on the intake pipe. That's pretty stupid (no offence taken I hope). Go plug it or use it for what it's supposed to be used for. You aren't losing metered air, you are sucking in unmetered air and running lean. I hope after getting this in depth with the swap, that you realize the intake pipe isn't pressurized like the IC pipes.
Alright, I'll look for a Wideband kit, but wouldn't it be better if I just got a Datalogger?, can you explain the boost creep?
Oh and another thing I meant the Upper intercooler pipe, I said intake pipe because it used to be my N/T Intake Pipe, it is leaking out boost though, this leaks out metered air making it run richer.
 
390cc injectorsand Injector resistor pack installed!

I got a few PM's about my turbo conversion so here's the rundown:
13g TDO4HL turbo from a JDM A/T 40k miles $150 Shipped
Injectors $40
Imjector resistor pack $25
Downpipe w/new flex section(Very good Idea to replace these) $25
Ported and polished O2 housing $75
Intercooler $35 excellent cond.!
BOV$25 also in excellent cond.!
Flange Free
Manifold $25
Cobalt gauges and Pillar POD $145 Got them for Christmas :)
Gaskets $45
so everything totalled up to about $540 and about $50 for Misc. parts of course you could find lower prices on things like the o2 housing and gauges but I got them anyhow.

I mainly did everything in three steps,

1st, I bolted up the Intercooler and BOV
2cnd I Bolted up the turbo/hooked up oil lines/hooked up o2 and downpipe
3rd, I connected the intake and Intercooler pipes up, connected the water lines, and disconnected the wastegate
Lastly, I installed the Injectors and resistor Pack, Hooked up the wastegate, And made sure everything was correct.
 

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well, word of advice, putting a turbo on your 2.0 N/T will work, just make sure your rings don't blow, after going to the shootout I noticed a knock in the engine, took off the oilpan and I noticed that the #2 rod bearing was knocking, it scored the crand pretty bad, the cause was almost all the oil leaked past the rings, so I picked up a 91 GS-T witha bad body and I pulled the engine, I'm inspecting it right now and after I clean it up and replace some things I'm going to just do the full turbo engine swap, I would like to use the 91's wiring harness but the lights are different so would it work right w/ my 93 headlights? James.
 
how many miles was on your motor to begin with? Your rings were probably tired and couldn't handle the boost. Just rebuild the turbo engine for reassurance and you'll be good to go. Make sure you do a metal HG and arp head studs and you should be able to handle a good amount of boost. Make sure you get a good hone and the rings are spaced correctly
 
92DSMErdrick said:
how many miles was on your motor to begin with? Your rings were probably tired and couldn't handle the boost. Just rebuild the turbo engine for reassurance and you'll be good to go. Make sure you do a metal HG and arp head studs and you should be able to handle a good amount of boost. Make sure you get a good hone and the rings are spaced correctly
engine had a bout 60k.
no tanks i think i'll just drop in the 91's engine I just pulled.
 
Yes the wiring harness will work for the engine. The lights are connected at a different point. It may just be easier to add in the 4 extra wires needed for the complete swap then swap out the wiring harness. you already have the injector res pack wired in so rest of the wires will be a piece of cake.
 
Theres only 2 wires you have to worry about besides the resistor pack. The knock sensor signal wire and the 7th MAS wire. The fuel pressure selonoid and BCS are not needed. I've never had a problem starting my car without the fuel pressure selonoid that some have.
 
alright, looks like I'll use the other harness as a donor, one more thing, can I use my n/t throttle body with the turbo engine/ecu? will I have to mess with the vacuum lines? I like the bigger opening and mine was just rebuilt, thanks for all the help, James.
 
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