my talon dies.......

[black97talon]

hey i was wondering if anyone could help me figure out why my car dies when i start it up in he morning when its cold out it dies if i hold my foot on the gas pedal to keep it running but usually if you let off it will stay running after about 5 mins of holding it there some days it will only do it when then engine is cold but lately it has been doing it every time i come to a stop can someone please help me figure this out thankyou

 

[Locke]

I would begin by cleaning your IAC and testing your ECT sensor.

 

[Doug99RS]

Also, check your battery terminals and have your battery checked. A little punctuation never hurts either.

 

[black97talon]

Well the other day i had a code it said i had to contact the manufacturer. So i did this and they said it was fuel related and i had to get it put on a flow chart to figure out exactly what was wrong. Now what would cause this code and does this have anything to do with why my car dies. I had cleared the code yesterday and it didnt come back on, but my car still dies..... ill try some of the ideas above and let you guy know. Thanks for the replies

 

[Doug99RS]

You've mentioned that there was a code, that you had it retrieved and that it was fuel related but you did not mention what the wording of the fault code was. The code frequently may say that it is a manufacturer specific code but I'm almost certain that it will give you a "P" code that will be very specific in nature.

Without that fault code you're basically asking anyone who reads this thread to help you to diagnose.... just for example, an oil leak based on where the oil is ponding up on the ground rather than looking on the engine.

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35029&highlight=vague+questions

Please read this thread to help us, help you.
Doug

 

[black97talon]

ok just so yall know my car is a 97 eagle talon 2.0 non turbo. Ok that code that i got is as stated P1294 Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering. If someone can help me figure this out lemme know thank you

 

[IHeartMyHonda]

man, im at work right now at the mistubishi dealership. theres a 95 gs in here doing the same thing. most likely, all a dealership will do is replace your iac motor. (thats what we did) and it will not fix the problem. there is a tsb on the tps. sometimes theres a low voltage problem with them. same thing happened to my own gs. i replaced the whole throttle body with one from a donor car and it fixed the problem.

bottom line, try borrowing a friends throttle body and see if it fixes the problem.

 

[black97talon]

Well i took out the IAC and cleaned it out the best i could, it was really gummed up and i went through and cleaned the grounds and it runs better now but still not at 100% ? i have had this motor in this car for about 1 week have put about 400 miles on it does anyone ahve any pictures to where the grounds are supposed to go? I think i have them in the correct places but im not 100% sure if they are well guys keep the ideas coming and ill keep trying them

 

[Doug99RS]

P1294 is target idle not reached. This code is thrown when the engine RPM is supposed to be within a certain range and all of the engine controls to maintain idle cannot match the need to idle down. The number one cause for this problem is an uncontrolled vacuum leak. I word it as uncontrolled because a controlled vacuum leak is your IAC motor/IAC path and the small around around the throttle plate and throttle body.

You should check for vacuum leaks at the throttle body gasket, intake manifold gasket, injector o-rings, Vacuum hoses, cruise control components (specifically the plastic vacuum resevior located under the intake manifold) and brake booster.

The theory of operation for this code is that the target idle is supposed to be XXX rpm (probably around 700-800 rpm). In order to control idle, you have already found that your car has an idle control motor which opens and closes an airway to bypass the throttle plate. This passage allows more or less air to get in as the engine is needed to do things like maintain idle as well as keep the engine from falling on it's face AFTER you do a wide-open-throttle pull AND then suddenly let off the gas. When you do a WOT pull, the IAC motor opens up all the way. When you let off the gas, the passage stays open and slowly closes thus keeping the engine running. If both the throttle plate and the IAC motor were shut then the engine would stall out completely.

When the PCM (ECU) tells the computer to go to a certain RPM, it uses the IAC motor to increase airflow to the motor which in turn will increase or decrease rpm. If you have a vacuum leak then you're providing additional air to the engine and the IAC motor is actually going to have to close more than normal. If the vacuum leak is big like a blown intake gasket then the IAC motor will close fully. If it's REALLY big then the idle will STILL be too high and the RPM at idle could be 900 to 1000 rpm and this code will be set.

There is a possibility that you still have a problem with the IAC motor or circuits and that your problem is more of an undershooting idle issue but I've seen more high idles and vacuum leaks cause this particular code than not. Don't rule out other problems, but check for vacuum leaks first.

There is a service bulletin for the throttle position sensors back in the early 2gnt's:
NO: 18-04-96

GROUP: Vehicle Performance

DATE: Feb. 16, 1996

SUBJECT:
Erratic Idle And MIL Illuminated

MODELS:
1995 - 1996 (FJ) Avenger/Sebring/Talon
1995 - 1996 (JA) Cirrus/Stratus
1995 - 1996 (PL) Neon

NOTE : THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO ALL VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.01 ENGINES BUILT PRIOR TO NOVEMBER 1, 1995 (MDH 11-01-XX).

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

Loss of performance and/or Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) illuminated (indicating failed TPS) and/or erratic idle.

DIAGNOSIS:

Using the Mopar Diagnostic System (MDS) or the Scan Tool (DRBII) and the appropriate Diagnostic Procedure Manual, verify that all engine systems are functioning correctly. If Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) other than DTC" MIL 24" "Failed Throttle Position Sensor" are present, record them on the repair order for future reference and repair as necessary.







Check the throttle body part number against the throttle body part numbers given below. The throttle body part number can be found on the side of the throttle body by the vacuum purge nipple. Figure 1

^ Throttle Body Part Numbers:

4669540 4669541 4663077 4669167
4669246 4669245 5277745
5277765 4669032 4669313


^ If the vehicle DOES have one of the throttle bodies listed above, the throttle body assembly should be replaced. These throttle bodies were built without an 0-ring seal that prevents moisture contamination. The superseded part number for the replacement throttle body can be found by entering the part number found on the existing throttle body into the parts ordering system.

^ If the vehicle DOES NOT have one of the throttle bodies shown in the list above, refer to the repair procedure below for throttle position sensor replacement.

NOTE : IF THE THROTTLE BODY IS TO BE REPLACED, IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR. THE NEW THROTTLE BODY WILL COME EQUIPPED WITH THE UPDATED TPS AND REQUIRED 0-RING.

PARTS REQUIRED:

AR 4874430 Throttle Position Sensor, SOHC (PL, JA)
AR 4874431 Throttle Position Sensor, DOHC (PL, JA)
AR 4874430 Throttle Position Sensor, SOHC or DOHC (FJ)

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

This bulletin involves the replacement of the throttle position sensor and 0-ring, or the replacement of the throttle body.

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR REPLACEMENT:

1. Remove throttle position sensor from the throttle body by removing the two attaching screws. The attaching screws should be discarded. Replacement screws will be provided with the new throttle position sensor.
2. Remove the 0-ring from the throttle body casting and discard.
3. Lubricate the new 0-ring provided with the new throttle position sensor. Apply one to three drops of a light grade of vegetable oil and allow excess to drain off.

CAUTION : DO NOT USE ENGINE OIL, IT WILL NOT PROPERLY LUBRICATE THE 0-RING.

4. Install the 0-ring into the groove in the throttle body.

CAUTION : DO NOT INSTALL THE 0-RING ONTO THE NOSE PILOT OF THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR OR DAMAGE MAY OCCUR.

5. Install the throttle position sensor and attachment screws as outlined in the appropriate service manual under group 14, throttle position sensor installation.


THROTTLE BODY REPLACEMENT:

1. To replace the throttle body refer to the appropriate service manual in group 14, throttle body removal and installation.


Doug

 

[Shadow98]

ok just so yall know my car is a 97 eagle talon 2.0 non turbo. Ok that code that i got is as stated P1294 Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering. If someone can help me figure this out lemme know thank you

I've had that code come up on me and all it was was the IAC (idle air contral valve).

 

[black97talon]

cool ty doug that was some good info im gonna go try that here in a little while and ill let you know if my Throttlebody is the ones as you stated above. And also what do i use to clean my IAC? Brake cleaner, i really dont know what to use i just kinda wiped it off it still was pretty gummed up though ill let yall know what is going on. Ty for your input its greatly appreciated

 

[Locke]

Carb cleaner.

 

[Doug99RS]

Locke is right. Carb cleaner works great for cleaning off this carbon and gunk that builds up on the IAC motor tip. I will add that you should NOT spray too much on it to prevent the carb cleaner from going down in to the motor. It may damage the gears inside. Just clean the metal tip of it.
D

 

[flipinit25]

hi i am also having this problem with stopping at lights and it stalling i have changed the iac valve put a new evap canister new vacuum lines cleaned the whole throttle body out then it would stall out right when i first started it put old iac on and it acted fine then the high rpms at lights kicked in and started stallin when i was slowing down to them also kind of weird a week ago my oil pressure light kept popping on then went away i dont have alot of money to be replacing all these sensors so if anyone has and ideas please let me know

 

[flipinit25]

Sorry took so long to repond to this i ended up putting another new iac motor on it and the rubber grommet that went on the pigtail was missing. Replaced it and it ran perfect again i work at autozone and went through 3 of these iac motors to get a good one that was annoying.