my new crate motor

[Blitzeclips]

hey guys i just dropped a 2.0l 420a forged motor with crane 14s, aem cam gears, light UDP , oversized valves, ported intake manifold, ported and polished head, into my car with a stage 3 clutch from sachs. i think my problem may be the motor and tranny mounts i got (polyurethane) but it seems like when i get on it from 6-8k i feel a pretty good vibration. im thinking it could be the motor mounts because im nbot sportin a automatic (manual) and possibly i need to break the pistons n such in more (im at 1500 mile so far). also, if anyone knows where to shift for best power points please lt me know, right now the power continues to pull up to 7 or 8k. oh ya, when should i switch to synthetic oil? anyone who can help would be grealty appreciated. thanks.

 

[BigRand]

Well I would have just put synthetic oil in the motor only as soon as you dropped in your crate motor. But if you already have regular oil in, I'd just use a synthetic blend on the next oil change, and then switch to full synthetic on the next.

As for the vibrations it is the mounts. Polyurathene mounts shouldn't be that bad, but it would still be the problem.

As for shift points?
Does your car have a rev limiter?
And have u tried the AFx ECU from howell?

 

[Blitzeclips]

no i dont have a rev limiter, synthetic in a brand new motor is bad... spark knock . but howells afx unit is for 97s and up, unfortunately ive got a 95.

 

[BigRand]

Humm, didn't know that synthetic in a brand new motor was bad, Cause I thought thats how the EVO's came, oh well. I probably wouldn't go past 8200rpm's at most 8500rpms. Get yourself a shift lamp. What kind of fuel management did you plan on running. Defintatly check out some of the stand alone's and megasquirt.

 

[youkickedmydog]

no i dont have a rev limiter, synthetic in a brand new motor is bad... spark knock . but howells afx unit is for 97s and up, unfortunately ive got a 95.

97 ONLY, the ecu pinouts are different from 97 to 98 to 99... thanks mitsubishi. BTW what computer are you running in that monster.

 

[BCESI]

Humm, didn't know that synthetic in a brand new motor was bad, Cause I thought thats how the EVO's came, oh well. I probably wouldn't go past 8200rpm's at most 8500rpms. Get yourself a shift lamp. What kind of fuel management did you plan on running. Defintatly check out some of the stand alone's and megasquirt.

synthetic motor oil should never be used in an engine for at least the first few oil changes and then it'll be safe.

 

[BigRand]

synthetic motor oil should never be used in an engine for at least the first few oil changes and then it'll be safe.

Okay so since we're on the topic, I'm having a 420a being built right now, bottom end kit and some light head work. The motor that I found hasn't been used for a long time, but its out of a 99, its probably been sitting for about a year.
So after the rebuild with all its new parts, I should run regular oil first?

 

[suicidal2af]

Okay so since we're on the topic, I'm having a 420a being built right now, bottom end kit and some light head work. The motor that I found hasn't been used for a long time, but its out of a 99, its probably been sitting for about a year.
So after the rebuild with all its new parts, I should run regular oil first?

The reason you don't run synthetic oil in a new engine is because it's too slippery, and prevents the rings from properly seating.

As such, that applies to rebuilt engines also.

 

[siueclipse]

More than likely the vibration is because of the motor mounts. If it happens at high speeds only, then check your wheels to ensure the proper balance.

 

[Blitzeclips]

yea i knew not to run the synthetic until around my 3rd oil change (which will be tomorrow at 1500 miles or so). but the vibration isnt from the wheels thats for sure, it feels more of a internal thing, thats why im guessing the mototr mounts. i got chassis mounts, tranny, and motor mounts in polyurethane, so it could be either or. as for the computer, im all stock baby i dont know what to get as far as ecu goes, im thinking nothin yet cuz im buying a turbo soon. the motor is awesome, pulls pulls and pulls some more, accel is mean too. next week or so im buying a 20g turbo, megqsuirt system, new distributer, msd ignition, safc II, profec B, greddy TT, gauges and lines. so far ive already got the manifold which i ported and polished, greddy types BOV powdercoated a translucent red to match my engine bay, and a bigass FMIC. so if you guys happen to know what tpe of ecu i need or would help. let me know cuz right now i just need the missing link w/ my setup.

 

[BCESI]

everyone seems to like the Megasquirt 'n spark (that has got to be the lamest name I've ever heard) for their ECU needs. By the way, our cars don't have distributers

 

[Blitzeclips]

ok my mistake coil packs. and the megasquirt sure aint the ecu by the way.

 

[timawdtsi]

Car's that come from the dealership with Synthetic have already been "run-in" with a regular oil.
From at least a GM standpoint he motors are built and initiallly started on propane. At that point he motor's are run through a few test's and then installed in the vehicle.
They are ran through a few test paramenter's and then beat on severly (8000+ rpm's depending on the motor)
I guess they figure if something is going to go bad, it will go bad quick.
Aparently it does, by the Dyno they have som big thick Lexan window's
Dont use synthetic for the 1st 5000 miles, your car is a 420a so there is no rush to go synthetic right away. And with the oil change schedule on new motor's you would go broke anyway's.

 

[Nt-Eclipse-Dail]

Car's that come from the dealership with Synthetic have already been "run-in" with a regular oil.
From at least a GM standpoint he motors are built and initiallly started on propane. At that point he motor's are run through a few test's and then installed in the vehicle.
They are ran through a few test paramenter's and then beat on severly (8000+ rpm's depending on the motor)
I guess they figure if something is going to go bad, it will go bad quick.
Aparently it does, by the Dyno they have som big thick Lexan window's
Dont use synthetic for the 1st 5000 miles, your car is a 420a so there is no rush to go synthetic right away. And with the oil change schedule on new motor's you would go broke anyway's.

GM has a few cars that come from the factory with synthetic oil in them. Corvette - Mobil One... And you could also get the late model Camaro's with a special 'Castrol Syntec Option' and your Camaro would come with Synthetic Oil in it...

Where did your info about GM come from? Just wondering...

 

[Redmachine]

That engine break in is an old myth... it came about when synthetics first came out and they were terrible they have since gotten better by leaps and bounds. you can run synthetic in your car... the engine wont break in for twice as long thats it. Engines today are made for it, ring technology is way better and have no troubles seating properly. I know my pops and I have done this on 4 sbc's for different hotrods we made, and my moms mustang gt, which BTW didn't break in until 60k It got tore down a few months ago for a performance rebuild (at 120k my mom drives the shit out of it, cross state trips and such) Not one sign of wear still had the factory cross hatching. My dad ran royal purple from day one.

 

[Blitzeclips]

yea im thinking of changing over to synthetic (mobil1) this weekend around like 1800 miles on the new motor. im ready for boost now, so im trying to get the motor used to synthetic safely asap for the turbo. how much HP do you think my tranny can handle before i boost it to 20psi or so on a 20g? thats the next problem im going to encounter i think, the tranny has 110k or so on it. but, ive heard our transmissions are durable, what do yall think? realistically of course

 

[aztek_warrior]

Just woundering for those of us who do have a rev limiter,
which are the best points to shift at????

 

[Blitzeclips]

before i dropped the new motor in, the best shift points were at:
1st gear- 5800
2nd gear- 7200
3rd gear- wind it out, you wont need 4th in a 1/4 unless youve got nice supporting mods or spray.

 

[SnoopySLR]

Welcome to Urethane motor mount world, they vibrate. But I would check your tires like Siueclipse said, they could be out of balance.

Mobil 1 is a good oil, but nothing beats Royal Purple. Thats what I will use until the day I die. My 420a will never see anything else.

As for shift points... why are we bench racing, go out and figure it out.

 

[Blitzeclips]

hey man i dont know much about oils, but i do know royal purple doesnt withstand high temp or performance for prolong periods of spirited driving. its hard to explain but basically, if you use it for drag it works great to an extent, same as hard driving on the road. BUT, ive read and heard how mobil1 is the way to go as far as daily driving goes. royal purple breaks down after a certain time, but mobil is more of a medium oil for either or. ill try to find the site i found all the info at but its crazy how hard some guys go on oil products. ill keep ya posted. dont get me wrong rroyal purple is one of if not THE best out there, just maybe not for what we do with it.

 

[timawdtsi]

GM has a few cars that come from the factory with synthetic oil in them. Corvette - Mobil One... And you could also get the late model Camaro's with a special 'Castrol Syntec Option' and your Camaro would come with Synthetic Oil in it...
Where did your info about GM come from? Just wondering...

Info came firsthand from 25yr GM plant employee. I was just curious about thier motor break-in program and how it was done with some of the car's coming from synthetic from the factory.

In most cases now the engines are assembled at one plant and shipped to another for insertion into car's, thus why they are started on propane before they are shipped out of the engine plant.