My high boost build.

[parker4]

Its been almost 2 years since I popped my head gasket. In the mean time I disassembled the motor and then moved 650 miles away. How time and random parts seem to slip away. Just ordered a bunch of parts for it and figured I'd start a build a tread. Here are the details for my 7-bolt build.
The bottom end
-Main dowel alignment kit
-Acl main & rod bearings
-ARP main & rod bolts
-Balance shaft removal kit
-Weisco rings
-New crank timing key
-Oem idler & tensioner pulleys
-Gates timing belt (None kevlar)
-Front case (Not oem)
-Felpro gasket/seal set
-Shaved and balanced oem crankshaft
-Stock rods/pistons
The top end
-Stock head with revised lifters
-1.3mm cosmetic headgasket for higher compression
-Arp headstuds
-1g throttle body port matched

I have a scm5162e turbocharger for it with a 5 knob safc, data logger, and wideband for tuning with stock injectors. Before I turn up the boost I will purchase an ecm tuning computer and run my 880cc injectors.
Does anyone have any experience with this turbo? I hear it doesn't like high oil pressure and as a result begins to tear itself apart above 28psi, any stories with this turbo?

Stuff still to purchase
-Hawk pads
-Act throw out bearing
-Tires, Thinking bf goodrich kdw2 225/50/16 since they are only 92 bucks a tire right now.
-Registration
-I have another head which has upgraded springs and retainers, and 1mm over sized valves waiting to be put in. But for now I'm just spending money on getting the car running. As I'd need machine work and cams for it.

As of now I am waiting on parts to arrive from the brown sleigh so anything I may have missed or any suggestions before I start the assembly are welcome. And sadly I cannot afford to spend money on 1g rods.
Parker.

 

[parker4]

Got a bundle of parts in the mail yesterday. Looks like today I'll get to the bottom end.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Spiffy

 

[parker4]

Got the balance shaft removal bearings in and the main cap dowels pins installed. Was a little worried that I was going to have to send the main cap to the machine shop to get the dowel pins to fit. Good day!

Put the crank in, spins smoothy, end play measured about .005 inch.
Next the arp rod studs, wiseco rings and everything from then on out is basic bolt on stuff.
Thinking of the rings I forgot to mention that I did hone the cylinder walls.

 

[parker4]

Measured the crank before I torqued the main down. The main journals on the crank measure 2.226 (stock is 2.244) and the rod journals measure 1.76 (stock is 1.77) Since I bought the crank new and was not told its measurements I assumed everything was to oem spec. Have to order new main bearings .010 over-sized. So with .008 of "play" between the crank and the main bearings (which is within spec) I'll run thicker oil like 5w/50 but how unhealthy would that be for the rod bearings? I really don't want to spend more money at the machine shop.

Thanks, Parker.

 

[parker4]

The BfGoodrich g-force sport comp-2 tires came in. They are a 225/50/16 tire. Along with a new slave cylinder, arp headstuds, and the correct size main bearings. I think on monday the head gasket and throw out bearing arrive.

Noticed some valve marks on the pistons, checked the valves to find all the intake valves bent. So I'm thinking of buying a new timing belt tensioner. I have another head that is disassembled. For it I have 1mm oversized valves and manley springs and retainers. Was saving the head casting for the machine shop to fit the valves and get some cams. But now I guess the heads are going to get switched around.
So now the head will have new valve seals, cam seals, manley springs and retainers, and revised lifters.

Tired uploading a few pics but they all failed uploading so meh, maybe later.
Its getting close