turbosax2
Moderator
- 4,482
- 673
- Nov 19, 2006
-
Mechanicsburg,
Pennsylvania
Ask and ye shall receive. Thanks for the good suggestion, Grant!
The mat was really easy to remove. I basically just started ripping and pulling at it and it tore off easily. Until I got to the section of it near the brake booster. A piece got wedged in around the brake booster and wouldn't come out - it didn't help that my fingers couldn't fit in to grab it either. I ended up loosening the 4 nuts for the brake booster from inside the car (up where the brake pedal is close to the firewall). I loosened them enough so I could slide the booster out about 1/2" and that was enough to free the piece.
My firewall looks like swiss cheese


Here are some pictures of my "map" of the ecu harness. I'll try to make a cleaner computer version later on.
ECU harness - a set on Flickr
Made some progress last night. I just started taking all of the electrical tape and loom off the ecu wiring harness so I can see all the wires. Make sure you wear gloves when you do this as it can get sticky.
Small change in my plans. After talking to luv2rallye, I will be keeping "20. Capacitor (Noise Condenser)".
The mat was really easy to remove. I basically just started ripping and pulling at it and it tore off easily. Until I got to the section of it near the brake booster. A piece got wedged in around the brake booster and wouldn't come out - it didn't help that my fingers couldn't fit in to grab it either. I ended up loosening the 4 nuts for the brake booster from inside the car (up where the brake pedal is close to the firewall). I loosened them enough so I could slide the booster out about 1/2" and that was enough to free the piece.
My firewall looks like swiss cheese



Here are some pictures of my "map" of the ecu harness. I'll try to make a cleaner computer version later on.
ECU harness - a set on Flickr
Made some progress last night. I just started taking all of the electrical tape and loom off the ecu wiring harness so I can see all the wires. Make sure you wear gloves when you do this as it can get sticky.
Small change in my plans. After talking to luv2rallye, I will be keeping "20. Capacitor (Noise Condenser)".
Originally Posted by turbosax2
I'm going to be relocating my fuse box to the interior of my car. I'm also going to relocate the power transistor and injector resistor box to the interior. Do the power transistor and injector resistor box have to have a good ground? I would assume they do but I wanted to check. Also, I have a question about the noise condensor on the intake manifold. Is its sole purpose to supress static from the radio? From searching through the fsm and CAPS that's what I have found, but when I unplugged it for awhile I didn't notice any change. If that is its only purpose then I am going to eliminate it during the rewire.
Originally Posted by luv2rallye
They don't need a ground but their bracket attached to a metal object (heat sink) helps with heat dissipation. (The coil however should have it's bracket bolted to the head or block for best magnetic flux density transfer.) The noise condensor suppresses high frequency spikes which helps all electronics - the radio being the most suspectable. I'd leave it in - needs to be connected right at the coil connector to be effective.