My First DSM Build and 7 bolt questions.

[vwpat]

So I recently picked up a 95 Eagle Talon AWD TSI. It had a broken timing belt and had been sitting in a field for a year. I traded a 94 ranger (that ran) for a car that had grass growing up over the hood. Anyway I got it home cleaned it up and it looks pretty damn good.

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I know the wheels suck, but it doesn't run yet and that is top priority.

So when i got the car to the head was already off... once again a car sitting in a field for a year, with no head on it. I was skeptical at first but everything looked ok. So i took the head to the machine shop to have it tested and me and a buddy of mine started to tear crap out of the engine. It took us about 4 hours to get the block out... in my driveway with no hoist... and we took it down where work to dissasemble it.

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Everything on the block looks good except for some nicks in cylinder one...

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So about a week ago the machine shop calls and says the head has 16 bent valves(all of em) and that one of the Valve seats is bent and damaged and cant be fixed. I was expecting bent valves but not the damn valve seat to be bad and not fixable.

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So thats where I am so far... I really want to have a bulletproof seven bolt motor when its all said and done. Let me know any tips and or advice on build Ideas. Not looking to be lightning fast but high 12's would make me happy. Look for more soon, I just bought a used head super cheap and things are moving quickly!

 

[boostedtwo]

Don't try to bend corners to save money on the build, take your time and research everything. I do have several heads if you need one. make sure the crank is ok as well, look for scaring on the side of the lobes, if it is scared go ahead and replace it as well. Make sure to replace all the bearings as well, might as well replace the water pump, timing tensioner, and pully. To save a head ache in the future I would order a balance shaft elimination kit. They are cheap enough and well worth doing while the motor is out of the car.

 

[mike96]

what are you looking for in a bullet proof motor? i agree with what boostedtwo said don't cut any corners especially when it comes to gaskets i did my first rebuild with a topline kit and ended redoing it about 3 months ago (should have bought felpro to begin with) mitsu gaskets should do you fine also. get some good bearings also.

 

[1993tsigrayawd]

The problem with the 95 7-bolt is that it isn't the revised block. Check the thrust bearing for any marks. But to make it pretty tough just replace all the bolts and studs with ARPs. Put in fresh bearings and call it a day.

 

[lzertrbo]

this may be no help but i would just swap a 6 bolt

 

[tsiboostin]

I'm going to be helping him with this rebuild. Trust me I have stressed the importance of proper gaskets and OEM timing components!

I was wandering how you guys feel about that piston? I had read that you can clean them up buy smoothing out the nicks and it should be fine. I went ahead and did this but I was just wandering any advice or experience? Also for a basic rebuild would you say just to go with ACL bearings not the "race" ones?

 

[kingjust]

Well, to me... bulletproof = $$$$'s. So what is the budgent first and foremost. Once that's established, it will be easier to gauge what you really need to spend money on... such as an eagle crank or one of the new K-1 billet cranks, or OEM which has already been proven. From there, aluminum rods for less weight and less stress on the bearing. Then ross coated pistons. ARP everything, L19 the had, upgraded valve train... you can see that this is going to cost money for 'bulletproof' and just for 12 seconds. Think about what you want out of the car, look at your wallet... then plan out your purchase or machining that will be needed.

KJ

 

[mike96]

I was wandering how you guys feel about that piston? I had read that you can clean them up buy smoothing out the nicks and it should be fine. I went ahead and did this but I was just wandering any advice or experience? Also for a basic rebuild would you say just to go with ACL bearings not the "race" ones?

if it were me i would go ahead and replace that piston, better to by cautious then leave it to chance. as far as bearings go ACL should be alright unless you are planing on cranking out 500+ hp i don't think it will be a problem. keep your eye on the classifieds also you can pick up some good deals on rods and such there. but defiantly figure out your budget first, i spent about 2500 on my 7 bolt and only about 1400 went into hard parts, the rest went into gaskets, machine work , and a bunch of miscellaneous crap.....

 

[rayrayx11]

ive noticed having a stroked 7 bolt is more reliable than a stock 2.0. maybe look into getting a crank off the spyders.

 

[vwpat]

Stroked? little to expensive ha

 

[ziggo0]

Sounds like your starting what I'm in the middle of going through. Guy I bought my 95 Talon off of threw a rod straight out the back of his motor. So far it's costing a lot more than I imagined, as well as time. I'm trying my hardest not to go cheap, however being so tight on money its hard not to. I did NPR pistons, re-used the rods, donor block is .040 over, turned crank, acl rod bearings, sealed power main bearings (due to my acl's being wrong). Topline gasket set...which was a mistake but things will get replaced as it goes.

 

[poppabear]

Sounds like your starting what I'm in the middle of going through. Guy I bought my 95 Talon off of threw a rod straight out the back of his motor. So far it's costing a lot more than I imagined, as well as time. I'm trying my hardest not to go cheap, however being so tight on money its hard not to. I did NPR pistons, re-used the rods, donor block is .040 over, turned crank, acl rod bearings, sealed power main bearings (due to my acl's being wrong). Topline gasket set...which was a mistake but things will get replaced as it goes.

Not sure it was the best thing to turn the crank, from what i hear it is the worst thing to do is to turn our cranks ... Please correct me if i am wrong ...

 

[needsy]

Not sure it was the best thing to turn the crank, from what i hear it is the worst thing to do is to turn our cranks ... Please correct me if i am wrong ...

That one has been debated a lot. Our cranks are nitrided, which creates a very hard surface that is thin. Some say you shouldn't turn a crank because you will cut through the hardened portion and end up with a soft journal surface. Most wisemen say it is fine to turn a crank one size smaller. For a high power build I would replace it, but anything using stock internals should be fine with a turned crank.

 

[MidShipCivic]

Roughly this surface treatment is .010'' if you send it to a crankshaft specialist they can reapply ''heat treat'' that surface again to regain that.

 

[poppabear]

Thanks for clearing that up guys.

To the OP,

I just want to say based on what i can see in the pics the body looks to be in very good condition. I say you have a nice build on your hands. Good luck with it as I'm going through the same thing at the moment.

Post pics and let us know the progress as you go, i will follow your thread if you keep it alive.