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My Dream Setup

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DSMCrazyRican88

10+ Year Contributor
32
0
Sep 10, 2009
Middletown, New York
This is what I wanna do if I do a DSM Project so let me know what you guys think....

4G63T 6 Bolt Cyclone Swap

HKS DSM Camshafts
HKS DSM 4G63 Cam Gear
Supertech Valve Seals
Supertech Dual Springs
Supertech Titanium Retainers
Supertech Valves
BOOMBA Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII/IX 75mm Throttle Body
Power Enterprise Timing Belt
1st Gen DSM T3 ProStreet Turbo Manifold
GT35R
TiAL 44mm Wastegate
TiAL BV 50mm
ETS 90-94 1G DSM 10.5" Race Intercooler Kit
Head Port and Polish
Intake Manifold Port and Polish
Intake Port Match
Exhaust Port Match
AEM Fuel Rail
RC 750cc Injectors
Power Enterprise Timing Belt
Mitsubishi MLS Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
Buschur Racing Coil On Plug Ignition System
AMS 4G63 Race Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit
CP Pistons (9.0:1 Compression Ratio)
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Eagle 4340 Crankshaft
6 Bolt OEM Water Pump
6 Bolt Oil Pump
Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump
Moroso Oil Pan (6 1/4 Qrts)
Koyo Aluminum Radiator
DogBox Racing Transfer Case
AEM EMS-Series 2
ShepTrans Stage 3 Transmission
Spec Clutch Mini Twin D-Trim
 
This is what I wanna do if I do a DSM Project so let me know what you guys think....

4G63T 6 Bolt Cyclone Swap

HKS DSM Camshafts Check out Delta Camshaft MUCH cheaper
HKS DSM 4G63 Cam Gear
Supertech Valve Seals
Supertech Dual Springs Get beehive springs evo or Kiggly
Supertech Titanium Retainers
Supertech Valves
BOOMBA Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII/IX 75mm Throttle Body
Power Enterprise Timing Belt
1st Gen DSM T3 ProStreet Turbo Manifold
GT35R Check out the Holset threads
TiAL 44mm Wastegate
TiAL BV 50mm
ETS 90-94 1G DSM 10.5" Race Intercooler Kit
Head Port and Polish
Intake Manifold Port and Polish Just get a SMIM
Intake Port Match
Exhaust Port Match
AEM Fuel Rail Stock rail has more than enough flow
RC 750cc Injectors With what I see your trying to do, go bigger than 750. You may just be able to get by with the 35r and the 750cc
Power Enterprise Timing Belt
Mitsubishi MLS Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
Buschur Racing Coil On Plug Ignition System
AMS 4G63 Race Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit
CP Pistons (9.0:1 Compression Ratio)
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Eagle 4340 Crankshaft Unless you are stroking or the stock crank is bad, it's not needed
6 Bolt OEM Water Pump Top Line or ITM is sufficient
6 Bolt Oil Pump Go OEM with this
Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump
Moroso Oil Pan (6 1/4 Qrts) Why do you need the extra capacity?
Koyo Aluminum Radiator
DogBox Racing Transfer Case ?
AEM EMS-Series 2
ShepTrans Stage 3 Transmission Check out Jacks Transmissions LLC — Mitsubishi I'm running the Value build
Spec Clutch Mini Twin D-Trim

So what are your plans exactly with the car? More than likely, you won't need the twin disc clutch and the
 
Why do you insist on the "cyclone" swap? If your dream is rebuilding everything like sooo, you do not need to use to the cyclone 6 bolt.

On top of that, a true cyclone swap uses the Evo3 16G, 550cc(?) injectors and the cyclone IM. The blocks are exactly the same and there is no true "JDM" engine as they were all built in Normal, IL. Any DSM overseas is an import. Also, to fully utilize the cyclone, you have to fab up stuff to work it properly and it's still not 100% accurate as the cyclone IM was actuated based off of ECU readings which our ECU cannot do so you would need to also do a wire harness swap to do it correctly. Over all, it's not worth it and easier/better looking to go with a SMIM especially with the money you are throwing around on this.
 
Not what car will be used, but what the car will be used for. Drag racing, road racing, autox racing, daily driver, weekend/highway warrior, etc.

ok a car like that will only be used as a weekend warrior because a setup like that cost to much just to mess around with lil kids and there hondas LOL and it will deff be a track car my goal either if I stick with my honda or get a dsm is to have a 10 sec car
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Please DSMRican, read the rules at the bottom of the page. You need to use proper grammar and spelling. Download spellcheck to correct your errors. Also, you cannot talk about road racing on here as it's illegal and promotes safty issues on the road. On a sanctioned track is completly fine though.

So which are you doing, weekend or track? Is it going to be strictly track if you decide on that? Just a couple simple mods and you'll be beating just about any honda out there. Also, if you are planning on mainly track, why not go AWD and I would read up on the forum about the 90 year car and see if you want to go with that year or not.
 
HKS DSM Camshafts (HKS cams are ancient technology, I'd get a set of FP or Kelford cams)
HKS DSM 4G63 Cam Gears (There are cheaper solutions out there like the Fidanzas)
Supertech Valve Seals
Supertech Dual Springs (Kiggly beehives are far superior when it comes to valve control)
Supertech Valves
BOOMBA Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII/IX 75mm Throttle Body (You'll need a SMIM to use this TB)
1st Gen DSM T3 ProStreet Turbo Manifold
GT35R
TiAL 44mm Wastegate
TiAL BV 50mm
ETS 90-94 1G DSM 10.5" Race Intercooler Kit
Head Port and Polish (Porting is over-rated and insanely expensive)
Intake Manifold Port and Polish (Sheet metal intake manifold will net you much higher numbers)
AEM Fuel Rail (Stock fuel rail is pretty big on it's own)
RC 750cc Injectors (You will need much larger than this for a 35R. I'd go with at least 1000s for gas or 1600s for E85)
Power Enterprise Timing Belt
Mitsubishi MLS Head Gasket (The Felpro Permatorque MLS is a far superior headgasket, though it is more expensive)
ARP Head Studs (Combine a set of ARP L19s with the Felpro MLS HG mentioned about and you'll never push a drop of coolant again)
ARP Main Studs (Add a Kiggly Main Brace to this for additional support)
Buschur Racing Coil On Plug Ignition System (Unnecessary. Stock DSM ignitions are very stout)
AMS 4G63 Race Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit
CP Pistons (9.0:1 Compression Ratio)
Eagle H-Beam Rods (I'd get the Scat H-Beams as they are the same price and are known to have better castings than the Eagles and also have a nice oiling hole like the stock rods have for better lubrication)
Eagle 4340 Crankshaft (Great item, but expensive and unnecessary)
6 Bolt OEM Water Pump
6 Bolt Oil Pump (BUY OEM ONLY!!!!)
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Moroso Oil Pan (6 1/4 Qrts) (Great item, but expensive as hell and not really necessary)
Koyo Aluminum Radiator
DogBox Racing Transfer Case (I'm not really sure what Dogbox does to make it any better than OEM, but OK)
AEM EMS-Series 2 (If you have an EPROM ECU, DSMLink v3 with speed density is a much cheaper and extremely powerful solution)
ShepTrans Stage 3 Transmission
Spec Clutch Mini Twin D-Trim (With the failure I had and others have had with Spec clutches, I'd recommend the Quartermaster Twin instead)


From the sounds of things, you are planning on spending WAY too much money on this setup. In my eyes, KEEP IT SIMPLE!!! Going overboard and throwing useless parts at a setup isn't the way to go.
 
am sorry about the grammer I gotta work on it and thanks for all your thoughts on my setup all you input is gonna help me when I really work on my dsm or even if I dont get it I still want to learn as much as I can about dsm thanks
 
My input

This is what I wanna do if I do a DSM Project so let me know what you guys think....

4G63T 6 Bolt Cyclone Swap - Forget the Cyclone - just go for a normal 6 bolt

HKS DSM Camshafts - FP or Kelford is the new "in" thing
HKS DSM 4G63 Cam Gear - Look into another brand unless you're set on purple cam gears
Supertech Valve Seals
Supertech Dual Springs - Kiggly Beehives
Supertech Titanium Retainers
Supertech Valves
BOOMBA Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII/IX 75mm Throttle Body - I'd say stick with the stock 1g throttle body
Power Enterprise Timing Belt - I like OEM belts personally
1st Gen DSM T3 ProStreet Turbo Manifold
GT35R - Holset, unless you can get a good deal on it
TiAL 44mm Wastegate - Might want to look into a smaller gate, unless you plan on running really low boost on the big turbo
TiAL BV 50mm
ETS 90-94 1G DSM 10.5" Race Intercooler Kit
Head Port and Polish - Might not be necessary
Intake Manifold Port and Polish - Just go SMIM
Intake Port Match - Not necessary
Exhaust Port Match - Not necessary
AEM Fuel Rail - Stock will be fine, unless you really want the bling
RC 750cc Injectors - Go bigger, especially if you plan to use the AEM you have listed - look into the FIC BlueMAX line
Power Enterprise Timing Belt - Have this listed twice
Mitsubishi MLS Head Gasket - Look into Felpro
ARP Head Studs - L19's to be specific
ARP Main Studs
Buschur Racing Coil On Plug Ignition System - Stick with the stock system - if you want a COP, you need to get a CDI (i.e. Dynatek)
AMS 4G63 Race Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit - Possibly just look into a normal BSE kit with a stubby shaft
CP Pistons (9.0:1 Compression Ratio)
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Eagle 4340 Crankshaft - Stock crank will do just fine
6 Bolt OEM Water Pump
6 Bolt - OEM Oil Pump
Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump
AFPR, if you don't have one already
Moroso Oil Pan (6 1/4 Qrts) - I'd say stick with stock, as the Moroso doesn't fit perfectly and requires some modification
Koyo Aluminum Radiator
DogBox Racing Transfer Case
AEM EMS-Series 2 - Also look into other tuning options - ECMlink, DSmap, etc.
Wideband o2 sensor, if you don't have one already
ShepTrans Stage 3 Transmission
Spec Clutch Mini Twin D-Trim - Twin disc is probably not necessary, but I'd look into a Quartermaster setup if you must


Also, don't forget all the extra stuff you're going to need. Gaskets, o-rings, timing belt components, seals, machine work, etc. All the little stuff adds up quickly!

And since you're working with a FWD platform, keep in mind the wheel spin in the lower gears. If you plan on tracking the car, you'll need to look into some sticky tires. My friend has a 3065 on a 2g GST and his wheel spin is insane. I can't even imagine a 35r on one.


You seem to be going about this wrong in my opinion. Well-known brand names are good (for the most part), but not always the best. Do a lot of research on here and certain things should start popping out at you that are repeated over and over. You need to define your budget if you haven't already, because this has a huge impact on what parts you should look into. Believe me, I have my dream system somewhat planned out, but I would need to look at what I need vs. what I want.
 
^^I agree with basically everything this guy says, but can I ask why are you set on a Koyo rad? I would suggest to go for something a little cheaper, but still features a brand name like Mishimoto.
 
I had thought about suggesting the Mishimoto as well, just because of price. I'm not sure how the Koyo is for a 1g, but for the 2g I believe it's the thickest radiator you can buy, which is why I have one.

Thick is good for cooling and all, but once you start throwing around ideas of large turbos you want more space between the rad and turbo. So maybe thick isn't what he should go for and maybe he should go the Honda half rad mod depending on the end result.
 
But hey, who even knows if he'll even get a DSM anyway. It is fun making build ideas though. Hey Brian, how much can the stock rad take? When does it not cool efficently anymore anyway? I understand that the Al rads transfer heat faster but why switch something that works besides for size?
 
Lol, well how about that then. A broken water neck would be bad. You always could just thread it out for an -AN fitting. Although, I don't know how well that would work with plastic though.
 
I've talked to different people and I would differently do a simple setup cause dsm's don't really need much to move fast
 
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