My car starts then dies

[moi1463]

I have a 95 gsx, stock motor some mods here and there. I went out yesterday to the store. It was about a 30 mins drive, got there fine, no problem, car didn't run funny or anything out of the ordinary. But when I went to leave, the car would start, runs for about 2 seconds then cut off. I must have restarted it 20 times, fires right up, runs for 2 seconds then dies. I got it towed home, checked for spark and fuel, everything is there. I can here the fuel pump going, battery is good and alternator is good. I've done some searches on possible causes, but I'm thinking it's the CAS. Someone did say it could go bad while driving, but once you turn off the car, this would happen, is this true? Can anyone think of what else I should test for before replacing the CAS. I'm not looking forward to replacing it either since it sits right behind the intake cam. Has anyone replace one without taking the cam completely off and not messing up the timing? I was thinking of just backing the cam off far enough to replace it without removing the timing belt and everything since i have limited tools. Thanks in advance.

 

[gofer]

Check that your cars timed correctly (timing belts have been known to jump a few teeth) and also make sure your injectors are firing as well, just because theres fuel to the rail doesn't mean your injectors arent getting stuck.

 

[moi1463]

I lined up the gear and check for timing, it's good. The injectors are also good with regular pulse and ohms is normal on all four.

 

[gofer]

I know you said that you can "hear" your fp coming on but you need to verify its getting the voltage it needs by using a digital multimeter (DMM). Just pull your back seats and remove the (4) philips head screws covering the fp on the passenger side. Pull the connector off going to the top of the fp, there should be a thick blue/black, thick black, thin yellow/black, thin black, & thin yellow wire going into it.
Your only going to want to find where the THICK blue/black & THICK black wire go into the connector since thats where you'll be holding your meter leads to test for voltage. Set the DMM to VDC and put the red meter lead on the THICK blue/black wire connector, then put the black meter lead on the THICK black wire connector. After you do this have someone try starting the car and watch the DMM, it should read 12v going to the fuel pump.


If those 12v aren't present I would try replacing the MFI/MPI Relay.