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My Car Autocross Material?

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blacklabel5281

15+ Year Contributor
114
0
Jun 8, 2005
West Chester, Ohio
I’m looking to get into autocross racing in Cincinnati, Dayton, and Columbus Ohio. I have been trying to contact a few people to get some info on it and it seems like no one can message me back. Anyone have some input on the whole autocross thing?

Secondly here are my mods: Apexi Power Ram Air Intake Cone, HKS SSQV BOV, Dejon Upper Intercooler Piping, MSD 8.5 Ignition Wires, NGK Spark Plugs, ACT 2600 Clutch and Lightened Flywheel, Apexi N1 Exhaust and Downpipe, upgraded brake pads and rotors, Tein Super Street Coilovers with Pillow Ball Uppermounts (Soon to get EDFC), GReddy Turbo Timer, Autometer Oil Temp and Pressure gauges, and Poly Shifter Bushings. On the non-aftermarket side I run a half synthetic oil blend, K&N Performance Oil Filter, newly rebuild transmission, and my car is dropped about 1.75 inches all around (Should I Go Lower?), and I run new bf all season ultra performance tires.

Is this a good set up so far? Any input would be great. Thanks!
 
Are you planning on doing any weight reduction to your vehicle? You will probably need to for the improvement of not only power-to-weight ratio, but to handling as well.
 
Any car is autocross material. As long as you can pass tech inspection and you have a helmet you can drive. Are you talking about the SCCA or what? The only thing I would do is run some sticky tread, which all seasons arnt the best, but they will do. Also going to low with suspension wont give your car the flex it needs to go around those tight corners.

Lets get one thing straight here, power mods will only do so much. Your mods are fine, dont worry about doing anymore.
 
nightspeed87 said:
bump the car the question is your driving autocross material,
a good car isnt anything without a good driver. A good driver can make
a bad slow car good.... Get me?

He didnt ask if his driving was good enough, you dont have to be a good driver or have a great car to autocross. Its a fun entry-level motorsport, doesnt require much dollars, and is a great way to learn how to drive a car short of paying for a school.
 
my point to him is just focus on driving not the car as long as everything working right with the car and operating effeciently, unless that was his question, im thinking he ment as far as mods being able for it.?
 
I'm a pretty good driver. I know when to shift and at what points to downshift to give me the most power. But I havent seen much track time so I'm most likey not that good haha. Now as for weight reduction my entire car is gutted. all I have right now is my drivers seat which is pretty much trashed so I need to go buy a racing seat, harness bar, and harness. As for the rubber, after I get my seat replaced and my lifters replaced I'm looking into 17x7.5 Volk Te37 with BF Ultra Performance tires. I Forget the name of the rubber.
 
I believe that autocross groups/organizations each have their own rules that you must follow. They have very strict rules about modifications to your car and some mods will bump you into a different car class. As a beginner you really don't want to be running in "modified" car class as you won't really have a chance.

The best way would have been to read up on the organization you are interested in and go in with a stock car.
 
You can start working on driving skills but you will not be competitive in Street Modified class until you put on some wide Azenis or Kumho MX's and a bigger, fast-spooling turbo. If you're really serious about competing, rather than just having fun, look into suspension bushings and increasing front caster and negative camber.
 
wret said:
If you're really serious about competing, rather than just having fun, look into suspension bushings and increasing front caster and negative camber.

The FP T-28 Turbo is one of the best auto-xing turbos you can get. Great spool and able to push 20psi to redline.

For suspension, get a nice set of coil-overs. This allows you to adjust your dampening and also corner weight your car. Besides driving skills, tires are probably 50% of auto-x'ing.
 
Well I do run the Tein Super Street Coilovers. Because I dropped my car and didn't adjust my tires I do believe they are a negative camber. This is when the top of the tire is in more than the lower correct? When they installed the coilovers shouldn't they have already put in poly suspension bushings? Also in the near future I plan on buying the EvoIII Big 16g Turbo and Apexi Front Mount Intercooler with GReddy boost controller. Sound like a good autocross setup?
Thanks for all the help so far guys!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The FMIC is a must, Dont want to get Heat Soak with that stock side mount. Those coil-overs you got are really good and yes, you will have negative camber if you lowered your car and did not adjust your camber at all which is what you want for auto-x and since your AWD, you wont really have to worry about a traction issue with the negative camber.
 
What should be my hp and torque range be? I want to be able to keep up with a slightly modified sti/evo. Thats the class I wanna be in.
 
There can be no actual answer to that question as it will vary from track to track. Id say before spending any more $$$ go out and get some track time.

Also I second the use of a T28, but I dont think a front mount is necessary.
 
4BangR-x said:
but I dont think a front mount is necessary.

All Depends. If it’s just a 40-50 second autocross, you'd probably be ok with the stock side mount, but if you are doing anything over a minute, you may want to get a FMIC, it will prevent heat soak. Otherwise just rig up an Intercooler sprayer on your stock side mount, that would do it too.

HP range, sti's and evo's are around 300hp but that’s not why they perform so well. They have an absolutely amazing suspension setup. I drove a friend’s stock sti in an autocross and it handled better than my gsx and I have a lot of suspension upgrades.
 
4BangR-x said:
There can be no actual answer to that question as it will vary from track to track. Id say before spending any more $$$ go out and get some track time.

Also I second the use of a T28, but I dont think a front mount is necessary.

about the experience and track time was what I was trying to say also....:thumb:
 
I have driven on a set of the Kumhos, and I do like them also. However I think they lacked a little in turn in. I also think that is the only reason why the 615s are better then the older 215s, turn in is a little sharper. I have heard that the Kumhos will last a little longer, but ill take the slightly wider Falkens over that anyday.

Also where are you going to be autocrossing at? SCCA gets me down, because there is only like 4 events a year in my region.
 
4BangR-x said:
I have driven on a set of the Kumhos, and I do like them also. However I think they lacked a little in turn in. I also think that is the only reason why the 615s are better then the older 215s, turn in is a little sharper. I have heard that the Kumhos will last a little longer, but ill take the slightly wider Falkens over that anyday.

Also where are you going to be autocrossing at? SCCA gets me down, because there is only like 4 events a year in my region.

Should pick a weekend and come up to wisconsin. go to www.fvscc.com
 
Is there anywhere in cinci or dayton Ohio that does SCCA? I just got my new rm swaybars, motor mounts and front tower brace. I hope that will greatly increase my handling. haha
 
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