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my altenator belt snapped

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Compression testers are very inexpensive, and you can perform a "poor man's leak-down test" with the plug-hole adapter from most compression gauges.
 
ok so I have another question. On the cam gears on of them has 2 timing marks one on each side of it correct? Are both the cam gears supposed to be facing up like the 2.0L lettering facing up? If so then one of my cam gears is upside down. Does this effect anything?
 
Compression testers are very inexpensive, and you can perform a "poor man's leak-down test" with the plug-hole adapter from most compression gauges.

Like he said, comp testers are cheap. Check with a local parts store like Advance Auto or Auto Zone, you might be able to rent one and all that will end up costing you is your time to and from the store.
 
is it like a misfiring idle?? bup--bup--bup--bup--...or just crappy? My alternator belt snapped once every month and found out that the alternator was bent where it has the through-bolt go..so it through alternator belts into my motor-side of the crank pulley, so i replaced te alternator, now its straight, but the alternator belt coming off doesn't mess up anything unless it f***s up another belt. I have drove home on my optima battery after my alternator belt has come off plenty of times no problem. Make sure the alt. is in-line. And if the 2.4 marks suit you, then go back to them...other than that, you did figure out what made ## car die, it was timing, is there any CEL's on right now? i mean i guess the 2.0 could be right but your cars running crappy from a sensor but idk. i want a video of ## idle right now..i can tell what it is. Thanks.

go get a comp tester from autozone. Pull a spark plug and push and screw the comp tester tube in (threaded), crnak the car over 3-4 times, check your compression. YAY
 
The safe way is to pull the fuel pump relay and unplug your coil pack before a comp test. The comp tester is a guage with a hose attatched, remove the spark plugs 1 at a time and thread the hose on the tester in the spark plug hole. I would leave the spark plugs in the other three cylinders as you test each individual cylinder 1 at a time. It will help to have a friend spin the engine over while you hold the guage, you'll see the needle rise as that cylinder you are testing builds compression ( this should only take about 3 seconds ). Most comp testers have a pressure release valve on the guage itself so be sure to release the pressure before you remove the hose ( no danger if you don't ). Then just repeat the process for the rest of the cylinders and you're done.
 
Oh btw compression should read 170-225 psi. But 100 psi will make air and fuel go boom ( 100 psi is awefull low though ). Make sure there isn't a difference in all of the cylinders greater than 25%.
 
You should have all the spark plugs removed when checking for compression. Having the other plugs installed can skew the rate that compression builds in the cylinder you are metering if one or more of the cylinders that have plugs installed have awkward or uneven compression themselves.

Removing all the plugs while doing a compression test ensures compression is only building in the cylinder you are testing.
 
^^^I see what you mean, bent intake valves in all 4 would shoot pressure up the intake port and into the cylinder being tested. Makes sense on paper, and would make the process a bit simpler with more accurate results, or hold the throttle open.
 
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