my altenator belt snapped

[wrknmike924]

Have you check for spark yet if the crank position sensor is messed up or bad you will not have spark. a engine cant run unless it has spark, fuel, and air, kinda basic i know

X2

Start with some basics. Such as spark, fuel, fuses. Id also make shure you havent thrown any codes. Get a scanner and check that. Check fuses like your alt fuse and engine fuse.

You probaly just had a crappy belt on the alt. But check both the alt pully and crank pully and make shure there isant anything that would chew a belt up. Like a sharp point or something.

 

[doggo]

Listened to the vid. There is NO ignition going on there, which makes me wonder that it would take more than ' one tooth off' timing to do that. So either the timing is WAY off (in which case youd be slamming valves etc), or its electrical or a fuel problem.

SO I'm thinking electrical or fuel at the moment.

 

[broads72]

The good news is that you have to replace that timing belt anyway. At that point you can check/replace the crank position sensor and tensioners. You will also be able to tell if your timing belt jumped elsewhere.

I had the same issue when my balance shaft belt snapped and binded the timing belt. It jumped timing and destroyed the CPS.
Just replace timing belt, balance shaft belt and CPS and go from there.

 

[adamzty]

Your cam gears are on backwards. That's your problem.

 

[RSdriver98]

I'm gonna work on it some more and I'll let everyone know what is goin on.

 

[brassc2007]

i messed up the crankshaft position sensor is located in the back of the block near the oil filter housing on the 420a it is a three prong plug. the fuses are in the panel on the driver side i believe alternator fuse could have blown which may cause some of the system not to recieve power. do the basics and check the fuses

 

[bullettdsm]

Your cam gears are on backwards. That's your [a] problem.

Why yes, yes they are, . Must of been running a bit rough. They are marked with the "2.4 front" for the 2.4 engine. You will find 2.0 stamped on the other side.

That notwithstanding, you have three points to look at when checking timing. the two points on the cams and you need to look at the arrows below for the crank set up. Those arrows need to be aligned at the same time. Like this; 2GNT.com - PROPER_TIMING_MARK_ALIGNMENT

MB

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Your cam gears are on backwards. That's your problem.

Eh? No they're not... the picture was taken from the backside of the gears, over the valvetrain. The "2.0L Front" stamp is facing the front of the engine.

 

[RSdriver98]

Yeh my cams are not backwards. I took the pic from the drivers side of the engine bay facing the passenger side.

 

[RSdriver98]

And on the crank it does not need to be TDC, it needs to be a half a tooth below TDC.

 

[adamzty]

Eh? No they're not... the picture was taken from the backside of the gears, over the valvetrain. The "2.0L Front" stamp is facing the front of the engine.

Ok. Yeah, I'm wrong.

 

[bullettdsm]

Yeh my cams are not backwards. I took the pic from the drivers side of the engine bay facing the passenger side.

Lol, so it is. That'll teach me for skimming through your pics .

OK, so if those marks are lined up, then your cam timing is off. Not ever using that side of the gears to set timing, I went down to the garage and pulled a couple of gears. If those marks are lined up, I flip the gears over and my 2.0 marks are off by one tooth. Check your gears from the front side and see.

Here's a couple of pics.

2.4 lined up;

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direct flip of frontside of 2.0;

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The 2.0 marks are a little tough to see but I marked them in white.

As for the crank, the arrows do need to be lined up. the "1/2 tooth" concept is for tightening your belt. You leave the crank back 1/2 tooth and then when you turn in the tensioner pulley the crank should fall forward that 1/2 tooth and be lined up.

Lol, sorry about missing the backside pic though. Just cruising too fast.

MB

 

[RSdriver98]

Ok so I am going to be starting on tearing down the engine so I can get ready to changed the timing belt and check everything to make sure that no wires have been disconnected or anything. I will keep this updated periodically.

 

[RSdriver98]

Well I got it running, but it is idling rough. I used the timing marks for 2.0 and it idles bad. Before I used the 2.4 marks on the inside of the cams and it ran perfectly. Idk why this is a problem because I have a 2.0.

 

[96TurboGS]

If your timing is correct....What type of vacuum kpa or hg / compression numbers are you seeing? Are you sure you didn't damage a valve?? I hope you changed that belt to a better one before attempting to drive it...

 

[RSdriver98]

I did replace the old belt with a shiny new one. I'm not really sure why the idle is rough. The strange thing is that I timed it the first time using the marks that are supposedly for the 2.4L and it idled perfect. Now that I have used what are being called the "correct" timing marks, idle is rough, but it doesn't die and once I press the throttle, it runs perfectly. No missing or anything... Just rough idle.

As for valves and vacuum, I have no idea. The valves could be slightly bent for all I know. I really need to get a compression test done now that everything is back together. Even if they are messed up, I have no money to replace them, so I'll just have to drive it like it is...

Also, I'm positive the culprit was the timing belt jumping a tooth or two. I'm not sure how many. Whenever I took the belt off, I didn't check because I was just ready to get it running, and the belt had to be replaced anyway.

 

[4G63T RACER]

did the belt go inbetween the crank and the damper pulley? if so and you have a 2g it could have busted the crank angle sensor making the motor get no fuel or spark to the cylinders

 

[RSdriver98]

Does anyone that has read through the thread have any suggestions on my last post? I used the timing marks on the inside of the cams (2.4L) and it ran perfectly, this time I used the marks on the outside (2.0L) and it idles rough, almost sounds like a hemi. I have a 2.0 DOHC.

 

[DIRQUIN]

Did you check your crank timming. Your cam timming can be correct and still be off on your crank. Had many cars do this. Line your cams back up and check to see if your crank is lined up. Should have marks on your balancer and timming cover to line up. If those are ok, check your spark. Pull a plug wire off and hold it near a gound, or V/C bolt. have some one turn it over. If you have no spark check your crank sensor. If it does spark, check fuel pressure. cant remember if those have a test port or not. look around on the fuel rail and see if there is a nipple sticking out with a cap on it. If there is unscrew the cap and press the schrader valve down to see if there is any fuel coming out. If there is no test port, find the input fuel line to the fuel rail and remove it and have someone turn it over and see if you have fuel. Let us know what you find. Good luck.

 

[DIRQUIN]

Ok, sorry. for some reason my computer did not show all the posts. so I didnt get to read them all. Best thing now to do is a compression test. Or if easier hook up a vaccum guage and watch to see if it drops and raises back up quickly this will tell you if you have bent valves. As will a compression test. Or line the cams back up with the 2.4 marks and see if you can tell a big difference. Good luck

 

[RSdriver98]

I will have to wait til tomorrow to take it back apart. I had a buddy helping me out and he is still in high school so I have to wait on him to get out. But the idle doesn't drop. Awhile back my timing belt snapped and bent my valves so I had them replaced and had the head completely redone, using the 2.0L timing marks, then as soon as I cranked it up and backed outta the garage my quit instantly stalled out. I thought it was my mistake at first, but then it just kept stalling every time I came to a stop. I ran it like that for a couple months and then finally had compression tests done and found out that my valves had burned up. So I had the head completely redone again and used the 2.4L timing marks and ran better than it ever had. So now I used the 2.0L timing marks and it has rough idle but doesn't stall out. I am hoping this isn't the same thing that was going on as the first time. It honestly sounds like an old muscle car while it is idling. The cams and the crank both line up correctly with the 2.0L marks. I just don't understand why it would be fine with the 2.4L marks and not the 2.0L marks since I have a 2.0.

 

[bullettdsm]

Remember, the reason that you did the belt this time was because you jumped timing. Any time that happens, you have a good chance of bending valves (hence the comp check and leakdown test).

I'm guessing that when you set up the 2.4 marks you may have also put the crank back a tooth

And on the crank it does not need to be TDC, it needs to be a half a tooth below TDC.

. This could have, in a weird way, gotten you back to (close to) stock timing, .

And when you look at these marks;
2GNT.com - PROPER_TIMING_MARK_ALIGNMENT

Be sure there is no doubt that they are correct. Usually, when they are correct, you say to yourself "yup that's it". When you look at it and say "Hmm, I think that's it. It seems close" etc. The marks are usually wrong

MB

 

[RSdriver98]

The timing marks are dead on. I have the cam gears lined up with the 2.0L marks and the cranks is lined up as well.

 

[bullettdsm]

The timing marks are dead on. I have the cam gears lined up with the 2.0L marks and the cranks is lined up as well.

That sounds positive enough . So you know where your next step is......

MB

 

[RSdriver98]

whats that