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My 1g will not start need help please

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tsiawd325

Probationary Member
3
0
Dec 30, 2008
San Angelo, Texas
i bought a 91 tsi awd and had it for about 3 weeks it was running fine. Then i noticed the oil needed to changed so i went to auto zone and i asked which weight i should get and they told me 5w30 and the guy i bought it from said he used 10w30 and ever since i changed the oil the car started making a loud knocking noise then one day i was gonna go driving around but the car wouldnt start. any ideas?
 
i bought a 91 tsi awd and had it for about 3 weeks it was running fine. Then i noticed the oil needed to changed so i went to auto zone and i asked which weight i should get and they told me 5w30 and the guy i bought it from said he used 10w30 and ever since i changed the oil the car started making a loud knocking noise then one day i was gonna go driving around but the car wouldnt start. any ideas?

Are you sure you put enough back in? Triple check the dip stick ten minutes after letting it warm up? Is there any way you have an oil leak or didnt tighten the plug all the way? Which weight did you end up using? Your post isnt that clear.
 
Factory recommends 10w30 for our turbo motors...in the least. "DANG!" hope you didn't lock up the motor.

Get down under to the crank pulley, put a 1/2" square spanner tool in the pulley opening and see if you can turn the crank by hand clockwise - car out of gear and the key off.

"AUTOCRAP" needs to be removed from the face of the earth! They've got to be the WORST auto supplier in the nation! (must be related or in cahoots with Wal-Mart and RadioShack...very substandard) "AUTOCRAP" might be a place to buy brand name oils, wiper replacement blades and misc stuff, - stuff that you know what is, but NEVER get auto parts from them.

..and good luck to you. - DSM
 
I seriously doubt just because you changed the oil with a 5w30 instead of a 10w30 that the engine failed. Most likely something else is going on or by PURE chance it quit after your oil change.

The numbers for oil viscosity are easy to explain. The first number denotes how the oil flows at a cold temperature. Lower the number, the easier it flows when cold. Second number (after the W) denotes how the oil flows when hot (operating temperature). Larger the number, the better for some cases.

So unless your in the North Pole, all you're really doing anything bad by using a lower viscosity oil all it doing is allowing the oil to heat up quicker. It doesn't reduce it's lubricating qualities that much and therefore don't believe it could cause your bearings and such to be starved of lubrication.

The fact that you say it doesn't even turn over, did you check to see if you have a good charge on your battery. Are your lights coming on or have instrument lights etc.
 
Factory recommends 10w30 for our turbo motors...in the least. "DANG!" hope you didn't lock up the motor.

Get down under to the crank pulley, put a 1/2" square spanner tool in the pulley opening and see if you can turn the crank by hand clockwise - car out of gear and the key off.

"AUTOCRAP" needs to be removed from the face of the earth! They've got to be the WORST auto supplier in the nation! (must be related or in cahoots with Wal-Mart and RadioShack...very substandard) "AUTOCRAP" might be a place to buy brand name oils, wiper replacement blades and misc stuff, - stuff that you know what is, but NEVER get auto parts from them.

..and good luck to you. - DSM

As long as you pay attention to brand, you will be fine with buying things from "el zone" Stay far away from anything resembling duralast.
 
I used 5W30 in my laser all last summer and it was fine. You have a bigger problem on your hands, unfortunately. You just need to narrow down what that noise was that you heard. Also here is a test for y'all, what does the W stand for in 5W30 or 10W30 etc?
 
in all acuality it stands for winter, well, the maximum low temperature viscosity, which occur in winter... the oil mostly depends on the climate your in, each car has a manufacture spec, however if your in really cold or really hot climated it can make a difference. the first number relates to cold viscosity(when you first start the car up) and the second is the visc. rating after the engine is warm.
viscosity is the rating at which oil stops flowing.
 
You really know your stuff about oil. I figured I'd see who knew because I once got a job at a quick lube place and during my training both online and in a book it asked what the W stood for like 10 times.


3 letters ASE...those damn questions are so complicated, at first anyways. anyone thats ever taken a test knows what im talking about. the ole tech a and tech b stuff...

im acually still in school, but that was in the very first course i took
 
I agree with the drain plug thing. Thats how my friends laser locked up. Plug fell out going down the road he parked it and went inside came back out later to leave and it was dead. Maybe check the gasket on the oil filter make sure there is no double gasket. Hope its something minor that is being overlooked.
 
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