1G Motor/Trans mounts, Rubber or Poly?

[92Turbski]

Hey, all.

The car I'm working on now (92 TSi AWD) was purchased as a roller and included was a complete set of torque solutions motor and trans mounts. This car will be first and foremost a street car with a mix of autox occasionally thrown in the mix. I plan on running the balance shafts and a very mild setup, maybe 380 with E85 down the road with a big 16G.

Not sure what and if TS offers different durometer mounts...
Thinking I'll start off with some rubber mounts and then go to poly.

What are your thoughts and experiences? Also where's a good source for them?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

You can browse the link. I know my poly mounts do add vibration to the chassis but its a racecar in streetcar clothes so I don't care.

Manufacturer of Billet Engine Mounts - Torque Solution

 

[92Turbski]

Thanks, Marty!

I meant more specifically to ask about the poly mounts in a street car. Will they vibrate your fillings out and back screws out of the dash and be so harsh as to not make you want to put more miles on the car? Depends on your level of tolerance I guess. Haha.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Mine are poly. They are stiff. 600+hp needs to stay in place. The best I can do to describe it is "buzzy" and you can feel it. It makes some of my car "buzz". I am sure the softer the material, the less you would feel the engine but as I said, I don't care. I run open exhaust anyway and the radio is there to take up the empty spot, .

 

[Dericsh]

I think I would go ahead with the torque solutions mounts, but I am not sure about durometer either. If you’re keeping the balance shafts, it probably won’t be too bad at all. Also only if it’s not your daily driver, because it does get old after a while.

 

[92Turbski]

I think I would go ahead with the torque solutions mounts, but I am not sure about durometer either. If you’re keeping the balance shafts, it probably won’t be too bad at all. Also only if it’s not your daily driver, because it does get old after a while.

Hopefully they're just the more mellow street ones and not the race ones, .
Ok, cool, yeah, that makes sense. I'll just chuck em in and see what happens. Worst case they're pretty easy to swap with the cherry picker.

Can you still get any OE mounts? I think the drivers is unobtainable if I remember right.

Thanks, man.

 

[Dericsh]

Hopefully they're just the more mellow street ones and not the race ones, .
Ok, cool, yeah, that makes sense. I'll just chuck em in and see what happens. Worst case they're pretty easy to swap with the cherry picker.

Can you still get any OE mounts? I think the drivers is unobtainable if I remember right.

Thanks, man.

There’s parts store ones, not sure about Mitsu branded.

I don’t know if I’ve seen it mentioned here, but I remember some Honda guys using a stock/lower durameter mount on the rear only to lessen cabin vibrations. Maybe something to experiment with if the full install is bothersome for you.

 

[92Turbski]

There’s parts store ones, not sure about Mitsu branded.

I don’t know if I’ve seen it mentioned here, but I remember some Honda guys using a stock/lower durameter mount on the rear only to lessen cabin vibrations. Maybe something to experiment with if the full install is bothersome for you.

Cool. Yes, I've seen some availability on aftermarket, so that's good.

Ohhhh, nice. Great idea, definitely something I'll keep in mind if it's crazy buzzy and annoying. Haha. Especially since I'm not going to be pushing really big power. We'll see, lots to do in the meantime.

Hey, you wouldn't happen to know if the stock swirly 16" wheels will work with the outlander brake upgrade, would you?


Thanks,
Rob

 

[habitatguy187]

Just run the front one. Or use window weld on some used stockers as window weld hardness is in between stock and poly.

 

[92Turbski]

Just run the front one. Or use window weld on some used stockers as window weld hardness is in between stock and poly.

Ok, great idea! I'll have to source some freshies, the stock ones were wasted. Haha
Is that what you're running on your setup?

 

[habitatguy187]

Yes I’ve had both and prefer the window welded mounts. I’m also not making 500hp or more tho. I have no experience as to how well window weld holds up with a lot of power

 

[Dericsh]

Hey, you wouldn't happen to know if the stock swirly 16" wheels will work with the outlander brake upgrade, would you?

I didn’t know, but I found out that they do! Credit: @ErikTande

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/outlander-brake-and-rim-combo-need-ideas.500334/#post-153568305

 

[92Turbski]

Yes I’ve had both and prefer the window welded mounts. I’m also not making 500hp or more tho. I have no experience as to how well window weld holds up with a lot of power

Niiiiiiice, that's awesome, man!

I don't want to make this thing too *race car* and end up being annoyed/irritated with it and not drive it as much. Haha.

I didn’t know, but I found out that they do! Credit: @ErikTande

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/outlander-brake-and-rim-combo-need-ideas.500334/#post-153568305

Perfect!

Headed to the local used auto junkyard here at some point to hopefully snag some OE wheels and have them powder coated matte black. I found a pic of a red 1GB with them on and liked the look. I'll eventually snag a set of coilovers and 27mm offset wheels for autox.
Need to keep hammering on this thing.


Rob

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[Mech Addict]

You might find an oem-type trans mount, and you don't have a '90 with cruise control, so that should work fine. I think you can also still get the front roll-stop in oem-spec knock-off (Anchor, etc.). The rear one and the driver's side are NLA for a 1G, even though some parts sources claim they are available.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

The only thing I couldn't find is the "J" bracket mount. I could find it for a 1.8L but not the 2.0 (and it looks the same, anyone know the difference?).
I am not an Ebay promoter but some things are ok. This is what I found : https://www.ebay.com/itm/2555544230...:Eagle&hash=item3b803b0927:g:7iIAAOSwmT5ij9By

 

[92Turbski]

You might find an oem-type trans mount, and you don't have a '90 with cruise control, so that should work fine. I think you can also still get the front roll-stop in oem-spec knock-off (Anchor, etc.). The rear one and the driver's side are NLA for a 1G, even though some parts sources claim they are available.

I was wondering if anything from the Evo1-3 would cross over as sometimes they're readily available versus NLA on the 1G stuff. Maybe the Galant mounts, too? Hmmm

The only thing I couldn't find is the "J" bracket mount. I could find it for a 1.8L but not the 2.0 (and it looks the same, anyone know the difference?).
I am not an Ebay promoter but some things are ok. This is what I found : https://www.ebay.com/itm/2555544230...:Eagle&hash=item3b803b0927:g:7iIAAOSwmT5ij9By

Oh yeah, sweet! Says it's compatible, seems extremely reasonable for all 3 mounts, too.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Well they are just stock mounts and that sounds like what you are needing. I think the rear roll stop is the main contributor to my buzzy car as it mounts right to the frame under the firewall area and seems to distribute the vibrations there more than the others. Just my thoughts though.

 

[Mech Addict]

Comparing photos of the d/s mount for 2.0 vs 1.8L, there more rubber molded into the 2.0 version, though they seem otherwise to look the same. A bit of that window glue to fill some of the gaps in the mount rubber may be the closest one can get to a oem nowadays. Makes absolutely no sense that 1.8 is still available, given how many surviving cars of each type must be still on the road. Not too many folks out there putting time + money into a 1.8l powered car, versus the almost cult following for the 4g63 mill.