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1G motor swap confusion... smh

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redfield102j

Proven Member
170
7
May 12, 2015
Spring Creek, Pennsylvania
I recently got my first talon tsi awd 5spd.

When i got it was taken apart for clutch. Car came with spare motor, new clutch, spare ecu, and couple other parts. I swapped the motor due to clunking noise. The motor i put in was same, other than the CAS plug, and this motor has ports for external oil cooler.
I had to swap ecu to get spark. Now the car starts and runs but has choppy idle and no power.

Feels like clutch is slipping but no burnt clutch smell. Boost gauge acts up and it wont rev over 4k rpm.

As i am new to these motors im lost. Any help would be great.. thanks for reading this and sorry if it is a dumb question..LOL

I know the motor i put in came from a eclipse and i have a talon.

I been working on this problem for a week now and havent made any progress. Is there something im missing?

I did swap the CAS from the old motor to the new one because the plugs where different. I read that could be brakes hanging up so car is in air and all tires spin easily. Im to the point that i believe it something with the motor or ecu.

Any advice or thoughts would be a great help
 
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You need to put a little more info in there. Is your car a 91+? If so it sounds like you might of swapped a 90 motor in it. Did you use the coils and transistor off the old engine or new? Theres other sensors that were different between the 2. I'll try to help you out. Did you set the base timing and adjust the throttle sensors?
 
The cars born on dat is january 91. I put the entire intake on from motor i took out including coils. I did set the cas sensor but not sure how to adjust throttle sensor. Call this a dumb question but would it be easier for me to put old motor back in? When i took flywheel off old motor i found the noise issue it was loose bolts on flywheel.. is the original motor better? Im so confused
 
Ok when you set the CAS did you ground the plug on the fire wall?http://www.plymouthlaser.com/timin.htmWhat's the ECU number you put in it?
MD166262 under that e2t36578m.. under that 0y21.

I did not ground the plug. Will that screw things up?

Guess i should of be more specific. I made sure timing marks where right and installed CAS. I havent adjusted it like that because i have no timing light. When i move CAS it doesnt make a lot of difference other than rpm at idle raising or lowering.
 
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I noticed when car isnt reving past 4k or building any boost. If i mess with wires on mass airflow sensor plug it will rev to 7k and seems to have boost. Not sure what thats all about

That's a 91 ecu. What was the ecu that originally was in it?

All the same except last 4 or very bottom number is 1710

I am going over the intake that was on the motor that i swapped out. The throttle position sensor is also different and has different plug end.

Vacuum lines come out different on throttle body. Basically all the sensors on intake are different
 
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Look for cracks or breaks in the wires going to your MAF. Get that all squared away and she should run on up there and quit stopping around 4000. :thumb:
 
I am looking over your timing adjust link and i cant make out what wire you are grounding out and where exactly it is. Looks to be by battery. Hard to tell on my phone.

Look for cracks or breaks in the wires going to your MAF. Get that all squared away and she should run on up there and quit stopping around 4000. :thumb:
Thanks i will ccheck them. Might just cut and rebuild plug
 
It wouldn't hurt. There is a vendor on here that sells misc molded plugs for our cars, maybe they can fix you up with a new plug to work. These cars are getting old and the wiring getting brittle so a new plug or a rewire on the old one is definitely on a to do list.
 
It wouldn't hurt. There is a vendor on here that sells misc molded plugs for our cars, maybe they can fix you up with a new plug to work. These cars are getting old and the wiring getting brittle so a new plug or a rewire on the old one is definitely on a to do list.
Thats what it seems like, its like it got taken apart to many times using the wires to pull it apart or something.

Would this problem also cause no power issue?
 
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Yep. The MAF talks directly to the ECU to tell it how much air is being taken in and if it is not correct then the corresponding fuel and timing will be askew.
 
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The connector for timing adjustment is kinda just above the battery in that pic. The MAF area does sound like your problem but you will also have to get it in time.
 

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The connector for timing adjustment is kinda just above the battery in that pic. The MAF area does sound like your problem but you will also have to get it in time.
Not sure ive seen that plug but i know what it looks like now. Thank you very much for the better pics and the help. I will post my findings when i get it all done..

So i rewired MAS. It seems to have fixed the choppy idle and its sounds a lot better, however the engine still isnt reving right and it isnt building boost.

The gage will read about 1 or 2 lbs at 3500rpm. Gonna try to unplug and replug in ecu and see if it resets and gets any better. any other ideas to try?

Also when you let off gas it almost seems like its missing the engine feels rough till the idle levels off

Grrr the choppy idle is back, all i did is shut car off eat dinner and come start it again

Here is something else i noticed. When i switch the ECU the old one turns fuel pump on and off. The ECU that makes the car run makes the fuel pump run constantly and it makes the lil box behind ECU click all the time even when key isnt in the car it actually kills the battery over night.

Not sure if that means anything or not.
 
Send your picture to yourself via email and it will ask you if you want to resize it. Make it smaller in bytes and you should be able to attach it using "Upload a File" at the bottom. :)
 
Send your picture to yourself via email and it will ask you if you want to resize it. Make it smaller in bytes and you should be able to attach it using "Upload a File" at the bottom. :)
I changed the pic size in my camera so it was only 2.4mb it just doest show up after i take the pic.

This one makes motor run but leaves fuel pump on whole time key is on

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This was in car when i got it. Turns fuel pump on and off but no spark issue

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Hope i labeled these pics right....

So last night i was going over things in the car checking for vac. Leaks and or boost leaks. Come to find that my pov or blow off valve is leaking even on idle.

I am still new to all of this so not sure if it is suppose to work this way or if its a faulty valve or a vaccum leak leaving it open alil
 

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The BOV should stay closed until boost in the charge pipe overcomes the valve and pushes it open and it shouldn't leak vacuum.
 
Not using the recirc tube will not cause it to leak if the bov is leaking then it is a faulty bov. Yes a vacumm leak or boost leak can cause it to run choppy based on the measured amount of air going through the mas is not actually making it to the engine.

Depending on how bad it is leaking this could also be causing your rev issue and boost building issue as well.
 
It is leaking bad enough where you can feel it if you put you fingers by the valve. I have a spare bov i am going to try and see if that stops the issue. Will post results.. thanks for advice

Switched out bov and its still doing same thing. Has same leak.. any ideas??
 
That is my next step replace all vaccum lines. Checked the hose from intake to top of bov and there are no cracks or breaks in the line. Is there a good way to check for leaks without running the motor when you dont have a vaccum tester?
 
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