Motor Mount Thread Stripped...now what

[mario009]

Whats up everyone.... i have been away from my dsm for a long ass time due to a lot of shit in my life, but im back on it. My engine has been sitting on a engine stand for over 1yr without beeing touched . ANyways, the guy whos doing the work pointed out that the right driver side motor mount thread is stripped....is this possible to fix?? he said i needed body work done . i will take a picture for you guys to see. I always thought you can just make a new thread and get a bigger bolt but i guess not according to him. Please help me out asap, also i have a 2g head and a magnus intake mani and the guy said that i have to get a spacer for the tb to fit on the manifold is this true?? He also said i need longer studs on both the intake and exhaust side for the gaskets to fit. Please help a dsmer out peace

 

[kahl23]

Do you mean the threads for the mount on the driver's side of the engine bay that go horizontally into the shock tower? You may be able to retap the threads, if it isn't too bad, though that wouldn't be an ideal solution. I'm not sure, but they probably make a Heli-coil that is that size, or even better yet, a Time Sert. Getting it in there will be a huge pain in the ass though due to the other part of the mount being right where you would need the drill to be.
As far as the intake manifold, we run a Magnus Heat barrier gasket (which is significantly thicker than a regular gasket) on a BJ's SMIM with all stock hardware and have no issues. Likewise, we're running OEM studs on the exhaust with no issues, so I'm not sure where he's getting the longer studs from. For the TB, you will need an adapter plate if the SMIM is flanged for a non-stock TB (mustang, Q45, etc) and you want to use a stock TB.

 

[mario009]

First of all thanks for replying and trying to help out. I will post pics tomorrow since i don't know what everything is called. Anyways, ill try to explain again. There is a place where you put the motor mount in between and you run a long blt through it and screw it in right?? the part that you screw the bolt is whats messed up which is why the mechanic said its gonna need body work????? Also, i have a stock 2g tb and i bought a magnus smim from extremepsi a long time ago. Since the nipples face towards the intake mani then you have to bend them up but the guy said the bolts aren't long enough anyways to make it work??? So he said to solve this issue get a gasket that will put some space in between and get some longer bolts and studs there?? Also I have the heat barrier gasket as well and i have a 2g stage 5 head from sbr. So whatever studs they provided is what i have. The guy said that since the gasket is there he wants me to get longer studs so the nuts have less chance of coming off??? to let everyone know, my garage looks like a ####ing warzone, nothing is in the engine bay, and every single bolt is scattered everywhere, any advice on how to get it back together??

 

[kahl23]

Sorry, I forgot about this thread. I honestly can't tell you what to do with the motor mount, I know what you're talking about, but you'd probably have to talk to someone with body repair experience. I'm really surprised that there would be clearance issues with the SMIM and a stock throttle body, especially if the SMIM was flanged for the TB, but I have never run a 2g TB with a Magnus SMIM. When you are mocking it up, are you using stock gaskets, and is it an obvious problem? As far as the intake and exhaust hardware goes, I would be really surprised if the stockers weren't long enough on the intake side, but i guess if the Magnus flange is thicker than the BJ's flange I can kinda see it being a problem. However, I cannot see there being any problems with the exhaust side, what exhaust manifold are you running?
My suggestion would be to take your time and tackle one issue at a time. First, mock up the TB on the SMIM, making sure to use stock gaskets, and see how much of an issue it is, take pics and post them if you want. Next, do the same with the intake and exhaust manifolds onto the head. I know that the 1g Intake mani is held on by a series of bolts, with two studs on the ends. If you can get 4-5 solid rotations out of a bolt, I would think you're ok, but be sure not to overtorque them if you're just mocking it up.
The exhaust mani is attached by studs that go into the head, so put on the studs, then the gasket, then the mani, and then the engine hoist location (looks like a triangularish bracket with a hole in the top of it, goes on the studs by the power steering) and see how many threads are sticking out, again, feel free to take a pic and post it. The exhaust mani is typically held on by copper nuts that are misshapen. These nuts deform when you torque them on, which ensures that they never back off (in fact, sometimes they take the studs out of the head when you remove them). That means they shouldn't be reused, so don't attach them when you're mocking this up, just see how many threads you have. I know that by the engine hoist location on the two studs by the power steering backet can take up a few threads, but we've run those two nuts just barely on the studs and never had a problem with their backing off. I honestly feel like if you have enough threads to deform the copper nut on the bolt, you should be ok. Sorry for the delayed response (and the fact it's so long), hope this helps you.

 

[andy4g63]

Post pics for the motor mount and Intake mani.