The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Motor Knocks at idle after Spark Plug change?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

What kind of knock? describe it as best you can. If it's a light tapping sound, it's probably lifter tick. If it sounds deeper and more towards the bottom of the engine it might be developing rod knock.

Oh and switch back to NGK spark plugs, nothing runs better than those suckers. Judging by your mod list, you will need NGK BPR6ES gapped at .028
 
somehow I doubt the plugs are causing the knock... but I've had bad experiences with Bosch and Autolite Platinums... they both can make engines run "funny"

It is however possible, especially if the plugs run too hot.
 
We all have to remember that basic NGK's are loaded with a resistor in the tower to flatten the spark just a bit whereas all of the others have a much quicker spark and platinum is the worst due to it's not the greatest electrical conductor.

People like platinum and those other fancy ones for the sheer joy in not changing out plugs every 15k miles - it's just a convenience thing.

Plus, our earlier ignitions were set up for standard plugs and if you go fancy, there will be an imbalance of sorts.
 
Sorry for some reason I don't get emails when users post replies.

But the knocking sound doesn't sound like Rod Knock quite yet (I've gone through three motors)

It sounds like a scratchy louder than lifter tick but similar to the sound.

I was thinking like widow says it might be the length of the plug..I also torqued them down to 18ft/lbs.

and I gapped them to what the guide said on the back which is .29.

As a side note the head had a 97 CAS on the left by the thermostat housing which I removed and replaced with a 95 hole plug because my car is a 95. And when I was doing timing I had to replace the bottom CAS because the CAS rotating shield was bent and it damaged the old one.

So I'm thinking it can be one of these things.

A. Spark Plugs are too long
B. Removing the 97 CAS somehow unbalanced the Cam and now its rattling?
C. The CAS disc that was bent is still bent and is somehow hitting the lower CAS?
D. My timing is off..

What do you guys think?

I'll take a video of it tonight...but I might be taking it to strictly modified in Schaumburg...I WANT MY CAR TO BE RUNNING SO BAD AGAIN!! its been down for 6 months ='(
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top