The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Motor jumped time and bent valves!Why?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

streetrebeltsi

Probationary Member
25
1
Aug 7, 2013
inwood, West Virginia
My engine ran great till one morning I went to start it and it was making a weird noise, the starter ended up being bad when I had it tested and I replaced it with a new one. it still wouldn't start so I checked fuel and spark to find out it was getting plenty of both. But when I tested compression it had none so I took the valve cover off to find all my intake side roller rockers laying loosely in my valve train and all my intake side valves were bent. Along with some exhaust side valves. They made contact with the pistons is how they were bent as I found when taking the head off. What would cause this random timing jump? I took the tensioner off and put it in a vise and it pushes in and extends out.The pulleys aren't bent and everything looks ok.
 
Just because the rod moves in and out doesn't mean it holds strongly (think of a strut). How was the tension on the belt? Only thing I can think of is something getting caught on the accessory belts that caused enough drag on the crank sprocket that it skipped a couple of teeth.
 
yea I'm grabbing a new tensioner tomorrow along with a new head and head gasket. That's really the only thing that could cause it to jump time that I can think of is the tensioner. Your probably right just cause it goes in and out doesn't mean its good. Nothing is even around the accessory belts that could of caught every things tied down pretty good. So u think its the tensioner too?
 
My car did the same thing years back. Somehow mine didn't bend anything, which I'm still not sure how. I think my intake cam was one tooth advanced and that's what saved me. I blame the tensioner, mine physically checked out but has to be the culprit. I changed all timing components and she fired right up and ran low 12's for a few more years till the bearing spun and blew the bottom end. I think that's why it's more important to keep up on timing belt replacment. Seems like lately there's been alot of timing belt failer and damage on the forums. Maybe a warning to those who have been putting off the timing belt change!! :) hope you can get things rebuilt bro, sorry to hear about the problems. And make sure you change all the timing components with quality parts (oem, gates)
 
yea for sure. I keep a spare mitsu. timing belt on hand at the shop all my other timing components are new and the belt that's on it is new it didn't even put a mark on it. I ordered a reman. head one of them ones that comes with oem parts and a 3 angle. Ya'll know where I can find a good deal on the tensioner? lowest I could find is 65 bucks on ebay for an oem one.
 
Make sure that head you ordered has 6T or some brand of Stainless steel valves, If they are some sort of OE replacement valves, I would not trust them in a turbo build.

Also make sure it has some brand of aftermarket single valve springs, Most all stock valve springs are weak at this age.
 
Lol ever heard the saying chances make champions..or that might only be founded in wv. Its cool bro thx for the heads up.

Ok yea the oem valves have 6t stamped on em but ill check the type of valves that come with the head just to be safe
 
Good luck, One time I had this happen is the dealership messed up my timing three times (don't know what he was doing" Every time I hit boost it would skip, They ended up having to by me a new head the 2nd time(2 teeth), and it still skipped a third time (1 tooth) till it finally got it right. Now I just do them myself. Only other time was my crank bolt backed out.
 
Are you sure the belt was installed (tensioned) correctly in the first place? I typically only see two causes. Improperly installed belt or bad components (or both). Cars I've seen skip time at startup becuase it's one of the most stressful times. You go from dead stop to moving the engine. If a belt is going to skip this is a likely time. Whatever your cause if your repair includes new components and proper tension you're good. I fail to understand how people including dealers screw up tension after all these years. There is simply too much good information out there. There is no reason for anybody to "hope" they have it right.
Honestly, and this isn't a shot at you just a statement, if a person isn't 100% sure the job is right then they weren't qualified to do it in the first place.
 
Are you sure the belt was installed (tensioned) correctly in the first place? I typically only see two causes. Improperly installed belt or bad components (or both). Cars I've seen skip time at startup becuase it's one of the most stressful times. You go from dead stop to moving the engine. If a belt is going to skip this is a likely time. Whatever your cause if your repair includes new components and proper tension you're good. I fail to understand how people including dealers screw up tension after all these years. There is simply too much good information out there. There is no reason for anybody to "hope" they have it right.
Honestly, and this isn't a shot at you just a statement, if a person isn't 100% sure the job is right then they weren't qualified to do it in the first place.
Honestly the dealerships here suck, I'm sure they all suck other places too, but shops in general in El Paso arn't very good. Even the honda dealership, My motor cracked some defected porous blocks, so they paid for the swap. The time my civic was there they caused a massive powersteering leak, cut my alarm wires and then hooked them up wrong even though it was color cordinated, didn't bolt down the hot wire on my alternator, broken my heatshield bolts off. After taking it back twice, I still have a small leak, I fixed the wires myself, and bolted my alt. nut down. Maybe I'm just bad luck.:idontknow:
 
Hey bro where did you get the head at... I might be needing a new one for this 7 bolt 4g63 i bought.. No compression in #2 cylinder.. Kid i got it from broke timing belt replaced timing belt and couldnt get the car to start... Any list of steps to follow to figure out if the head is Salvageable?
 
Hey bro where did you get the head at... I might be needing a new one for this 7 bolt 4g63 i bought.. No compression in #2 cylinder.. Kid i got it from broke timing belt replaced timing belt and couldnt get the car to start... Any list of steps to follow to figure out if the head is Salvageable?


Short of the head being cracked in half, it can be repaired.

Now if it is cost effective or not is another story.

Check the marketplace tab, there are several vendors and freelancers that can get you what you need.
 
I would use oem from extremepsi, they are quick and fair priced. Also don't trust the tension of your timing belt to a cheapo part!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top