Motor build parts

[Quicksilver1695]

i recently blew the motor in my 97 gst. i plan on dropping it and building it, but i am new to motors. i know a few things. i was wondering if anyone could give me a good list of parts needed for a build. i would like to run an evoIII16g 20psi daily and have the car reliable. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jake.

 

[cra]

in your neck of the woods there are plenty of experienced gvr4 guys and dsmers. a number of them are always willing to help out. they can assist to find decent low mileage JDM motor or a low mileage block/motor from a recent build that someone has abandoned. here is where you can realize the most value, provided you have some who can evaluate the integrity of the motor. compression tests, leakdown tests, test drives, inspections by experienced tuners/builders/machine shops.

 

[Quicksilver1695]

would you know anyone off hand that could shoot me a list soon.?

 

[stroked_AWD]

255lph fuel pump, afpr, Act 2100 clutch or bigger, maybe a lightweight flywheel, As for rods and pistons a good streetable combo is eagle and wisco your gonna want to get a good metal head gasket and some arp head studs. Gonna want to get some good bearings too acl's are pretty good. Also your gonna want to get a safc or some kind of tuning software.

 

[Quicksilver1695]

thanks stroked AWD. i do have a few parts around. i have an apexi neo already installed. fic 550. id like to bore 20 over. forgot to mention. supporting mods for a bored motor?

 

[Tanro]

Something you should know about any car Some one told me this a long time ago

" Fast, Cheap, Or Reliable you only get to pick 2"

20 PSI on a Daily is doable. Your gonna want to do a full rebuild on it.

Here is a list of what Need, What is a good idea, and What you should probably do if you dont feel like pulling the head off again.

MUST HAVES:
Full Engine Gasket Set
Rods (You dont want to re use rods from a bad engine they could be warped or stretched)
Pistons (only if they are burnt or you need to bore your block over)
Bearings (Rod and Main Get your crank turned and have them tell you what over size to order)
Timing Set (Dont cheap out on this get a gates belt and oem tensioner or better)
Piston Rings (Even if you didnt get new pistons get new rings)

Good Ideas :
New Water Pump
New Oil Pump
Stainless Steel Braided oil Feed and return lines for your turbo

And Lastly
If you can afford all that wait 1 more pay check and get a machinist to port match your head to your gaskets.

Edit:
If I am forgetting anything some feel free to correct me. I am forgetful.

 

[stroked_AWD]

Just make sure you use good pistons rods and rod bearings also have your crank micro polished or at least checked out. What do you mean by supporting mods for the motor or do u mean to run the 16g?

 

[Quicksilver1695]

tanro thanks for the info. Now i'm pretty decent at doing my homework on things. i have my notebook of things and so far all the parts mentioned are in it.

im 99% sure the crank bearings are bad. i havent been in the motor yet. but i just paid $800 for crank sensor work and they said it didnt look good in there. dipstick has metal shavings in it.but what do i do if that is the problem.?

and i was thinking all the parts mentioned. what about crower cams and valve springs.? and i hear a lot about 3g lifters?


and i'm having a buddy who attends a tech school take it to his class where they work on it as long as i supply parts. its a guarentee perfect motor.

well a bored motor makes more power. correct.? i dont know. throttle body. something that would be over looked that would cause problems.

bottom up is....

crank and bearings.
bored .020 block
20 over pistons. rings. eagle rods.
cylinder head with crower cams and valve springs........cam gears? useful or no?


would i need upgraded fuel rail with 255 pump and 550cc injectors?
spark plug gap.

 

[stroked_AWD]

Pull the crank out and have it checked.

 

[Quicksilver1695]

well i appreciate the time and help. i'll pm you guys when i pull the crank.? thanks again.

 

[Tanro]

Go ahead and pull the crank. Have it checked. Most likely your gonna need it turned. They should tell you what size bearing (over size) to get.

3rd gen Lifters are nice because the eliminate the Infamous 4g lifter tick. Ever car I have ever seen, ever ridden in, or ever driven had this tick. It is not a big problem and should not cause any harm to your engine. Every older 4g63 64 and and the 1.8 (73 or something) I have heard run does it. I know a couple of DSM guys in north Alabama and all there cars do it.

You bottom end sounds good. One thing about these cars is that Cams are easier to change in the car than a lot of cars I have worked on. You can worry about cams later. Adjustable cam gears are useful if you need to mess with the timing something I avoid like the plague. Other than that they look pretty.

You should be fine with the OEM Fuel Rail Running 550 cc injectors. Something else that is easily swap able with the motor in the car. You should probably depressurize your fuel system if your gonna do a in car fuel rail swap though.

Yes a Bored motor makes more power. As all V-8 Gurus will say "there is no replacement for displacment". That means the bigger your motor the more power it will make.

Cheap Upgrades to do
I noticed you have a 2g.

You should look at getting a 1st Gen Intake Manifold and Throttle Body. They flow better
Get a 1st gen Blow Off Valve unless you are dead set on running 20 PSI. The 1g OEM BOV can handle about 14 LBS.
Keep your 2g Throttle Elbow. The 1g throttle elbow sucks nuts
Port match your Turbo Manifold with the Turbo Manifold Gasket
Port Match the Intake manifold to throttle body gasket and intake manifold gasket.

All those can be to what you allready have / what you find on a junkyard for cheap and should net somewhere between 5 - 10 horsepower and will make any future mods Bigger turbo higher boost cams etc more productive.

 

[stroked_AWD]

I tought you couldnt turn our cranks because it will take off the coating correct me if i am wrong?

 

[stroked_AWD]

If your gonna pull your motor i would get prothane motor mounts and i would do a balence shaft removal too.

 

[Tanro]

Who told you that?

Why else do they sell oversized bearings?

 

[cra]

if you do not have alternative transportation, here are some options that could minimize down time:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/4g63-dsm-parts-for-sale-1/6-bolt-shortblock-nt-in-nj-5632/

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classified...tout-4892/?catid=searchresults&searchid=37932

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classified...-fpr-4980/?catid=searchresults&searchid=37932

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classified...pics-5564/?catid=searchresults&searchid=37932

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/4g63-dsm-parts-for-sale-1/fully-built-6-bolt-motor-5239/

 

[mitsubishikid]

step one get a new crank, step two toss the old one. It is not worth the money to have it reground if you can buy a good clean used one at a junk yard/auto dissmantaler. I would also suggest using the probe brand for forged pistons go to www.rpmmacine.com [for the money $349.00 probe has a nice forged product]

A better option
I would recomend that you swap in the six bolt engine block [that is if you have not done so allready][hint: the six bolt block is less prone to crank walk issues]

I would also recomend you read the book on dsm tuning it is featured on amazon.com. [if could recall i think the book was called "diamond star tuning" it is not in color like road race enginerings"how to build max performance 4g63t",but it is a good how to book and it is on sale. new for about $6.99 plus s&h. it shows how to wire the crank angle sensor [for when you swap in a six bolt block] up to the 1st gen cam sensor.this way you wont have to weld or drill anything to hold the crank sensor anymore.