Most important part of upgraded head?

[nicknorth11]

Hey guys,

I'm looking into getting an upgraded head, but I'd like to keep it around $1200 and must pick and choose what is most important to me, in terms of options. I have a 2.3L stroker, 272's, 50 trim, dsmlink, etc. I plan to boost around 30 psi every now and then. I will not be revving past 7500, so I'm not sure if upgrading the springs is necessary, but mine have around 145k miles on them. Also, would it be more effective to get 1mm oversize valves or get a port and polish job done? Below are a few of the options I am considering.

Slowboy's stage 2: Slowboy Racing :: DSM :: Engine :: Heads :: 2G :: Stage II 2G 2.0L 7-bolt Head
- port and polish
- 5 angle valve job
- stainless steel valves
- stock springs and retainers (I assume)

FFWD Street Dominator: FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain
- 1mm oversize stainless steel valves
- supertech sngle springs with Ti retainers

Buscher: https://secure.buschurracing.com/ca...d=152&osCsid=a2f09cebbee35dea78e5e3f19f7e45c1
- port and polish
- stainless steel valves
- Stock springs and retainers
(Buscher says this is only good for 400 to 500 whp. Does anyone know what the limiting factor is with this setup?)

If anyone has any recommendations, I would appreciate them too.

Thanks

 

[twicks69]

Things I would reccomend:

1G head unported
Either Stock sized or 1mm oversize stainless steel valves (EPN, Ferrea, Supertech, etc)
Upgraded steel valve springs -- singles will be fine for your usage (supertech, crower, beehives, etc.)
Titanium retainers (Crower, manley, kibbles, supertech, ferrea, etc)
Bronze valve guides
New valve seals (lo-riders for dual springs, and standard size for single springs)
HKS 272/272 cams
Resurface the head
Cut fresh valve seats if necessary
Valve job (3-angle or 5-angle)

Mitsubishi MLS head Gasket
ARP head studs

Though a ported and polished head is nice and pretty, it isn't necessary to make crazy power.


What intake manifold are you intending on running?

 

[nicknorth11]

Things I would reccomend:

1G head unported
Either Stock sized or 1mm oversize stainless steel valves (EPN, Ferrea, Supertech, etc)
Upgraded steel valve springs -- singles will be fine for your usage (supertech, crower, beehives, etc.)
Titanium retainers (Crower, manley, kibbles, supertech, ferrea, etc)
Bronze valve guides
New valve seals (lo-riders for dual springs, and standard size for single springs)
HKS 272/272 cams
Resurface the head
Cut fresh valve seats if necessary
Valve job (3-angle or 5-angle)

Mitsubishi MLS head Gasket
ARP head studs

Though a ported and polished head is nice and pretty, it isn't necessary to make crazy power.


What intake manifold are you intending on running?

I have a cometic MLS head gasket, ARP head studs and HKS 272's. I'm planning on getting a magnus smim, eventually. (Waiting on a used one to come along, but they tend to sell pretty fast). Thanks for the input. A friend told me something similar with regards to the port and polish. I think I'm going to pass on it and get the FFWD head.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

Oh man, here we go: Magnus... again...

On a serious note: I agree with Twicks. Just stick with the KISS method and you'll be fine
KISS = Keep It Simple Stupid

 

[JaxTalonTSi]

Hey guys,

I'm looking into getting an upgraded head, but I'd like to keep it around $1200 and must pick and choose what is most important to me, in terms of options. I have a 2.3L stroker, 272's, 50 trim, dsmlink, etc. I plan to boost around 30 psi every now and then. I will not be revving past 7500, so I'm not sure if upgrading the springs is necessary, but mine have around 145k miles on them. Also, would it be more effective to get 1mm oversize valves or get a port and polish job done?

If you are only revving to 7500 rpm, I don't think anything fancy will be nessisary. A good rebuild, with a good valve job and new valve guides and lifters would probably be the most cost effective. Stainless valves are nice, but with your setup arent nessesary. Alot of people go the metal headgasket route, but may I suggest if you are willing to spend the money, go the extra mile and just have the head o-ringed and use a composite gasket. If done properly by a reputable machine shop, you will never have headgasket issues.

Porting also isn't crucial, you can either leave it alone, or just smooth out the port runners and gasket match.

 

[nicknorth11]

If you are only revving to 7500 rpm, I don't think anything fancy will be nessisary. A good rebuild, with a good valve job and new valve guides and lifters would probably be the most cost effective. Stainless valves are nice, but with your setup arent nessesary. Alot of people go the metal headgasket route, but may I suggest if you are willing to spend the money, go the extra mile and just have the head o-ringed and use a composite gasket. If done properly by a reputable machine shop, you will never have headgasket issues.

Porting also isn't crucial, you can either leave it alone, or just smooth out the port runners and gasket match.

When do stainless steel valves become necessary? (I may end up with nitrous. I'm not sure yet). Even w/o spray, I would think the heat of 30 psi would compromise stock valves.

Also, I already have an mls headgasket.

 

[JaxTalonTSi]

The stock cylinder head and valvtrain is pretty stout like the rest of the engine. You can safely rev to 8000rpm on all stock valvetrain including springs, and lots of people have made BIG power on stock valves.

 

[Black95awd]

I have seen the heads of stock valves snap off on higher mileage engines. Get stainless valves they ate one piece unlike the two piece OEM ones. Cheap insurance if you ask me. A light port job (SBR Stage II is plenty) maybe a set of BC S&R (inexpensive and good quality)

 

[TxR6guy]

If i had the head off i would,leave the divider alone. When you have the valves out, have a look at the valve bowls, some are casted very roughly, some are not. I'm talking in the area just below the valve seat.

I clean that area up, and the remove some of the casting roughness in the exhaust side. That's it. I don't even touch the intake side except to gasket match.

Roughness is good on the intake side. It promotes turbulence.

Polish or smooth out the exhaust side, it prevents carbon build-up and lessens the amount of flow distruption.