more boost= less power???

[nightmares GS-T]

Ok so heres the problem, I recently made a manual boost controller and installed it. before I put it on i was running 14 lbs at peak boost and it would fall to around 11 lbs at 6300 rpm. after i installed it i began adjusting it only to find that no matter how much i turned it up, my boost gauge never showed above 14 lbs and to make things even better after adjusting the screw in a good bit i find that it actually feels like my car has LESS power. Im almost positive its installed correctly so any help would be appreciated. The only thing that I can think of is that either (A) im running to lean and thats where the power loss comes from or (B) my boost is leaking out around my sh*tty stock BOV, but in either case wouldnt my boost gauge show some sort of increase in boost?

 

[dsm-onster]

I agree with you 100% However this guy is already headed in the wrong direction. I mean honestly, there are like 5 things under $100 that would help him out, but he wants to just up the boost. Thats what I get from whats been said anyways. BTW, how do you know how much PSI the stock gauge is showing

So, thats why I feel the way I do. No boost gauge, no logging equipment, no fuel supply help and no tuning equipment either. To me this feels like a noob situation and this guy should learn more before blowing up his car. Not trying to slam the guy or anything, but seriously this is a typical noob move. Turbo DSM+MBC=more boost=more power.....RIGHT?



And any real DSM guy knows this.

That is exactly what i said You and I are on the same page. It's cheap to log. He needs a logger. He needs a BOV upgrade. And he's on the stock boost guess, er gauge.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

That is exactly what i said You and I are on the same page. It's cheap to log. He needs a logger. He needs a BOV upgrade. And he's on the stock boost guess, er gauge.

I have said this twice but ill say it again, IM NOT USING THE STOCK BOOST GAUGE. come on what fool would rely on a so called boost gauge that doesnt even read true boost but is an estimate based on what the ecu reads off the MAS? not me, I installed an aftermarket gauge before I even thought about turning up the boost.

 

[the_mork]

EvoScan OBDII Mitsubishi MUTII DataLogger Scantool for a cable that can reflash an evo. tactrix for a cable that can reflash an evo and late DSMs. Ebay.com for a cheap cable that only does logging.

You'll have to check some other sources or maybe someone can chime in which protocol cable you need to search for on ebay.

 

[dsm-onster]

^^^ I can vouch first hand that the 97 ecu is great for logging. Clocks and outputs just a quick as a 1998-1999. It's not reflashable though. . .

... It's an easy swap to a 1998-1999 plastic cover ecu however

I have said this twice but ill say it again, IM NOT USING THE STOCK BOOST GAUGE. come on what fool would rely on a so called boost gauge that doesnt even read true boost but is an estimate based on what the ecu reads off the MAS? not me, I installed an aftermarket gauge before I even thought about turning up the boost.

Good man!!! get a good logger setup and then findout how much more interFooler you need for your goal. and go from there. . .

 

[BoostFrenzy]

^^^ I can vouch first hand that the 97 ecu is great for logging. Clocks and outputs just a quick as a 1998-1999. It's not reflashable though. . .

... It's an easy swap to a 1998-1999 plastic cover ecu however

I thought whenever you swap in a 98-99 ECU into a 97 it throws a code? Whenever I lend my spare 99 ECU (Better then the 98 for getting a car smogged) to a 97 car it throws a code ?

As for the boosting problem, I say it is massive boost leaks somewhere. The 14PSI thing is normally where the stock 2g BOV starts to leak. But I'd suggest getting hard LICP+UICP with good couplers and nice worm/T-bolt clamps.

To me, if you want to keep a dsm reliable this is the setup to have:
-Switch the T-25 for a 14b
-Either port the stock 2g o2 or get an Evo3 o2 housing
-Get all hard intercooler pipes with your choice of BOV (as long as it recirculates)
-A Supra SMIC
-2.5-3" TBE
-Up the boost to what a logger reads safe

Can't get anymore reliable then that. Especially with an MHI turbo on there.

 

[dsm-onster]

Never swapped 1997-1999 ecus. I was told it would be just fine. Please correct me. What code does it throw?

 

[Cmele89]

14b's can only give out about 15 psi, your stock boost gauge is inaccurate, "YOU MADE A MANUAL BOOST CONTROLER", Your stock fuel pump is only good for 12 psi so yeaa its lean, your bov does leak if its stock, and ## wga needs a tenser spring.....

pwned

 

[the_mork]

Putting a 98/99 ecu into a 97 should be simple. If it does throw a code just modify the periphery bits so that the car doesn't run that test any more. Hell, Ceddy is using a 4g64 spyder ecu right now and has flashed almost every flashable rom on ther (probably all). I don't know if he has the car running yet but it appears the only problem is a fuel pump relay.


@cmele89 It certainly appears that you have an idea of what is going on but I think some of your numbers are a bit inaccurate. A 14b can put out 20psi if you ask it to but don't expect it to last very long and higher on spikes or restrictive setups. It is not uncommon to ask for 18-19psi on a 14b with good reliability, but the OP doesn't have a 14b the OP has a t25. He also isn't using the stock boost gauge as he has stated now about three times. Don't worry though since it appears someone else who is quite established missed it a couple of times too. Next, the stock fuel pump isn't "good for 12psi". It is usually good for a fair amount more than that and IMO can handle anything that a t25 can throw out which is usually about 17psi. It is important to note that this is NOT the case with a larger turbo like a 14b or 16g where the maximum range I would recommend would be 13-14psi. Finally a stock car with a boost leak is generally going to run into fuel cut before it just decides to go lean. There is a reason that there is a factory failsafe and that it is set where it is.

 

[dsm-onster]

14b's can only give out about 15 psi, your stock boost gauge is inaccurate, "YOU MADE A MANUAL BOOST CONTROLER", Your stock fuel pump is only good for 12 psi so yeaa its lean, your bov does leak if its stock, and ## wga needs a tenser spring.....

pwned

My14b gave out over 22psi with an accurate gauge.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

Never swapped 1997-1999 ecus. I was told it would be just fine. Please correct me. What code does it throw?

I'll get back to you on that. I have to search a local forum for the post the guy made to get the exact code. I believe it had something to do with the charcoal canister. I'll find it though.

 

[the_mork]

Evap/emissions codes are incredibly easy to fix. All of the emissions codes for periphery bits are well mapped.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

14b's can only give out about 15 psi, your stock boost gauge is inaccurate, "YOU MADE A MANUAL BOOST CONTROLER", Your stock fuel pump is only good for 12 psi so yeaa its lean, your bov does leak if its stock, and ## wga needs a tenser spring.....

pwned

Ive been pawned???? ok firstly everything you said was BS do you have any idea WTF your talking about? obviously not, (1)2gs come with a t-25 not a 14b, (2) A 14b can dish out anywhere from 14 to 20 psi for a good while before it gives, (3) yes, I MADE A MBC its not rocket science pal google it- its gonna blow your mind (well probably not because i seriously doubt you even know how a MBC even works), (4) my stock fuel pump when rewired will be able to keep up with the t-25 and thats funny how you say its only good for 12 psi when my car is running 14 psi BONE STOCK. so basically your entire post was nothing but a display of your lack of knowledge......And ive been pawned?????

 

[nightmares GS-T]

I thought whenever you swap in a 98-99 ECU into a 97 it throws a code? Whenever I lend my spare 99 ECU (Better then the 98 for getting a car smogged) to a 97 car it throws a code ?

As for the boosting problem, I say it is massive boost leaks somewhere. The 14PSI thing is normally where the stock 2g BOV starts to leak. But I'd suggest getting hard LICP+UICP with good couplers and nice worm/T-bolt clamps.

To me, if you want to keep a dsm reliable this is the setup to have:
-Switch the T-25 for a 14b
-Either port the stock 2g o2 or get an Evo3 o2 housing
-Get all hard intercooler pipes with your choice of BOV (as long as it recirculates)
-A Supra SMIC
-2.5-3" TBE
-Up the boost to what a logger reads safe

well a 14b or a 16g was what i was planning on after i get some data logging and tuning software and a 1g BOV is gettin put on next week so after that ill check for a boost leak and see what i find because like all of you are saying thats most likely the issue, anyways thanks for the help

 

[Dert]

14b's can only give out about 15 psi, your stock boost gauge is inaccurate, "YOU MADE A MANUAL BOOST CONTROLER", Your stock fuel pump is only good for 12 psi so yeaa its lean, your bov does leak if its stock, and ## wga needs a tenser spring.....

pwned

 

[Cmele89]

My14b gave out over 22psi with an accurate gauge.

what kindaa housing u do u have

 

[dsm-onster]

The 6cm^2 housing did it and the 7cm^2 housing did ot. The 7cm^2 housing felt MUCH better at 20psi vs. the 6cm^2 housing though.