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Mod help: Head/Tail lights requiring key 'On' position

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Nasty Dream

10+ Year Contributor
455
3
Aug 30, 2011
Alexandria, Virginia
I like to have the headlights on even driving during the day. However, I have left my lights on many times, coming back to find I drained my battery and my car won't start.

It makes more sense to me to make it so that the lights won't work without the key in the ignition, key turned to the 'on' position.


So I want to try to make this modification. In my mind, it seems easy enough to do this:

From the headlight/signal/highbeam/turn signal switch by the steering wheel, I would take the ground wire, and splice it into the ground wire for the accessories.

Since the dash lights, etc., won't come on without the key in the accessory or On position, this should do it.

Because the ignition is a multi switch. The car key allows you to manipulate the switch. When you turn the key, it completes the circuit, allowing current to pass. I figure it uses a ground wire to complete the circuit, but it's possible it uses a hot wire, I guess.


What do you think/know?

So to perhaps clarify:

I'd take the ground wire from the headlight switch, cut it, take the ground wire from the light switch itself and splice it ("tap into") the ground wire going to the accessory part of the ignition switch. Done.

(for noobs: ignition switch = where you put the key in)

Of course I will disconnect the ground wire to the battery before doing anything electrical.

Think it will work?


EDIT AGAIN:

It will only work if I tap into the incomplete ground. You see, I'm assuming there is a ground wire to the switch that is always grounded, and a ground wire to the switch that is only grounded when the key is turned. I need to make sure to tap into the right one.

So all of this assumes the ignition switch is a ground switch. Does anyone know if the ignition is a ground or a hot switch?

I can't wait until Saturday so I can take the steering column cover off and see if I can make some sense of it.
 
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It should work on any ign sourced hot wire,Thats how I have my WB wired.

WB = widebody? 2G DSM?


So you are saying I could:

* cut the wire to the headlight/tailight portion of the headlight switch

(this part of the switch will no longer work)

*instead run the hot wire that went to that switch to the ignition switch.


Result: the head/tail lights will always go on and off with the ignition switch
 
Right. That's what I'm thinking. :) Thanks.

It's just that, in this thread,

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/235158-add-buzzer-alert-when-lights-off.html

(note that the thread went off subject)

'luv2rally' explained how he thinks is the only way to do - basically, precisely what I want to do - and warns of ECU damage if you don't do it right. It's makes me re-consider, and it's worrisome. It's from 2006, so maybe he was still figuring things out and hopefully he's wrong.
 
Luv2rally is a great member here.There are alot of old threads and stuff here, but most of it is sill relavent years later.

My lc1 instructions said I could fry the ecu if I hooked it up wrong.That didnt happen.But it could happen..Rewiring stuff has its downsides when talking about frying your ecu.Nahh meen.
 
Luv2rally is a great member here.There are alot of old threads and stuff here, but most of it is sill relavent years later.

My lc1 instructions said I could fry the ecu if I hooked it up wrong.That didnt happen.But it could happen..Rewiring stuff has its downsides when talking about frying your ecu.Nahh meen.

Ah! You know what? Now I think I am misunderstanding his warning. Specifically because the guy he was helping didn't know what he was doing.

Yup, thanks again, Bud. :rocks:
 
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