The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Rix Racing

Mobil 1 syn 10w-30 good for temps under 20f? Oil pressure gauge question

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

talontsiboy24

10+ Year Contributor
869
3
Mar 28, 2009
60457, Illinois
My motor is a rebuilt 6bolt with around 32k miles on it..Do u think mobil 1 syn 10w-30 should be fine yr round i was thinkin to go thicker in summer time I wanted to bump it up to 15w-50 mobil 1 syn in summer time at least since i do get on it.

Im running a big 16g with moderate mods for now and the motor is pretty much stock but boost is 22-24psi and the car does see wot here and there and lookin at mobil 1 syn 10w-30 material data safety sheet i dont see anything about zinc or even the word zinc in it isnt that bad? what do u guys think?

As for now though its winter time so i wanna put the best in it for good startups but really good protection as i do like to boost in winter to.
 
Last edited:
And still nobody has nothing to say about my motor having 33k miles on it why i shouldnt use thicker oil on a low mileage car or why i should i guess it doesnt matter? Also they say synthetics are stronger then convential and they can take the heat better?

Mobil 1 10W-30 is recommended for all types of modern vehicles, including high-performance turbo-charged, supercharged gasoline and diesel multi-valve fuel injected engines found in passenger cars, SUVs, light vans and trucks.

Mobil 1 10W-30
SAE Grade 10W-30
Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 10.7
Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 65.3
Viscosity Index 154
Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 1.0
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.26
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -39
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 230
Density @15.6 ºC, g/ml (ASTM D 4052) 0.86

So mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30 not good for winter?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
And still nobody has nothing to say about my motor having 33k miles on it why i shouldn't use thicker oil on a low mileage car
Nobody has said anything because it has nothing to do with mileage its the design of the motor and the clearances in it that matter... Sure if you've got a billion miles on a car you can run a thicker oil. but theirs no reason to run a thinner oil in yours. If it was 70 out you wouldn't be doing your self any favors... I 10w-* oil when it was 5-10 degrees out last winter it's fine O an BTW I have less mileage then you...
 
to the OP, Mobil 1 synthetic 10W30 will be just fine for you ALL year. you never get cold enough to need 5W30 where you live.

enough b****ing about oil! my gosh. they're all mandated so as long as your not using Walmart brand oil you should be fine. I'm loving my Mobil 1 btw.
 
Why start a thread asking if your going to make asumtions about what people are telling you
You oughta check out his other thread in this forum ... that one never got anywhere either. Looks like a person who really knows what is going on, but brings up topics to "play" with us to gather attention...or to draw out the sysops for the absolute answer.

Ya, it is kinda funny for all of the other oil threads in the forum on how there was so much praise with Mobil 1, then all of a sudden, it's not a recommended oil and up pops all of these other, more expensive brands that it seems the name is carrying it more than the product itself.

Dang, might as well head back to good ol' Vavoline/Castrol dino oils and change them out every 3k miles on the routine basis..these have never failed anybody or any motor.

-DSM
 
to the OP, Mobil 1 synthetic 10W30 will be just fine for you ALL year. you never get cold enough to need 5W30 where you live.

enough b****ing about oil! my gosh. they're all mandated so as long as your not using Walmart brand oil you should be fine. I'm loving my Mobil 1 btw.

Actually they have a choice whether to get certified or not but yes if they want the API SM or ILSAC gf-4/5 certification they have to have less then 800ppm
 
Honestly I don't just stick to one brand of oil. Oil is oil to me as long as it's synthetic since my car isn't a full blown race car. As far as what viscosity to use, let's see what Mitsubishi says....
 

Attachments

  • Oil Viscosity.jpg
    Oil Viscosity.jpg
    39.5 KB · Views: 4,992
Kinda looks like the info that is on my driver's visor: 10w30 for temps above 32* and 5w30 for temps below 32* .. and can use 20w40 if needed for extreme conditions...

If DSM put those figures on there, one can pretty well figure out that Mitsu knew what they were talking about ... but, these are for factory (stock) requirements.

Why, if you're gonna crank out 1000+HP and 50 plus lbs of boost, you'd better be using the racing stuff...
 
Honestly I don't just stick to one brand of oil. Oil is oil to me as long as it's synthetic since my car isn't a full blown race car. As far as what viscosity to use, let's see what Mitsubishi says....

From that chart 10w-30 is good for -20 which is perfect for winters out here in chicago since we do go into the negatives sometimes but i def plan on bumping it up to thicker stuff come summer time say Mobil 1 syn 15w-50. My motor is pretty much a stock 6bolt besides ARP headbolts, mainbolts and rodbolts
MLS headgasket so i should be fine with mobil 1 syn 10w-30 for winter time.
 
Why would you change to 15w-50 in the summer? I need an explanation.

to the OP, Mobil 1 synthetic 10W30 will be just fine for you ALL year. you never get cold enough to need 5W30 where you live.

enough b****ing about oil! my gosh. they're all mandated so as long as your not using Walmart brand oil you should be fine. I'm loving my Mobil 1 btw.

The "Walmart brand" isn't too bad. The super tech conventional is better than the synthetic. I would choose it before Castrol, and Pennzoil.
 
Why would you change to 15w-50 in the summer? I need an explanation.



The "Walmart brand" isn't too bad. The super tech conventional is better than the synthetic. I would choose it before Castrol, and Pennzoil.

Because of the higher temps in summer time and plus the motor will be seeing heat too and 10w-30 only gets thinner in summer time so thats why i would go thicker.
 
Personally, Shell 5w-40 Rotella T6 Synthetic seems to be working fine for me. Even in this cold weather.
Until I do an oil analysis, I won't know. I want to do one on my next oil change.

I been hearing nothing but good things about shell 5w-40 rotella t6 synthetic do u get any tick with it or burn off? Seems like its more for diesel though..

Here is the full details about shell 5w-40 rotella t6 synthetic what do u guys think better then mobil 1? http://www-static.shell.com/static/...ts_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf

Appearance : Amber. Liquid at room temperature.
Odour : Slight hydrocarbon.
pH : Not applicable.
Initial Boiling Point and
Boiling Range
: > 280 °C / 536 °F estimated value(s)
Pour point : Typical -20 °C / -4 °F
Flash point : > 230 °C / 446 °F (COC)
Upper / lower Flammability
or Explosion limits
: Typical 1 - 10 %(V)
Auto-ignition temperature : > 320 °C / 608 °F
Vapour pressure : < 0.5 Pa at 20 &#176;C / 68 &#176;F (estimated value(s))
Specific gravity : Typical 0.89
Density : Typical 0.895 kg/m3
Water solubility : Negligible.
n-octanol/water partition
coefficient (log Pow)
: > 6 (based on information on similar products)
Kinematic viscosity : > 40 cSt at 40 &#176;C / 104 &#176;F
Vapour density (air=1) : > 1 (estimated value(s))
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I don't see why people keep choosing to deviate from the FSM. If Mitsubishi tells me that 10W-30 is the viscosity my engine needs, I'll use 10W-30. I don't understand the poeple that use thicker oils or thinners oils when the FSM clearly states thats 10W-30 is all you need regardless of how high the temperature is.

The only time I would ever use a different weight oil is if I ever modify the internals of my engine.
 
I don't see why people keep choosing to deviate from the FSM. If Mitsubishi tells me that 10W-30 is the viscosity my engine needs, I'll use 10W-30. I don't understand the poeple that use thicker oils or thinners oils when the FSM clearly states thats 10W-30 is all you need regardless of how high the temperature is.

The only time I would ever use a different weight oil is if I ever modify the internals of my engine.

Depends on the mods you have and how hard you drive / the conditions. A 14B @ 14psi is going to put less stress on stuff than an HX40 at 35psi. Cruising on the highway is different than drag racing; drag racing is different than road racing.



I like Rotella-T 5w40 synthetic. I run it in all my vehicles.
 
Depends on the mods you have and how hard you drive / the conditions. A 14B @ 14psi is going to put less stress on stuff than an HX40 at 35psi. Cruising on the highway is different than drag racing; drag racing is different than road racing.



I like Rotella-T 5w40 synthetic. I run it in all my vehicles.

I have been using the T6 for a while now to...Seems to keep the Subaru motors from spinning bearings as much to. If it could handle the torque of a diesel it is good for my dsm. It also seemed to slow down the oil consumption and is good to use in the winter AND summer.
 
Depends on the mods you have and how hard you drive / the conditions. A 14B @ 14psi is going to put less stress on stuff than an HX40 at 35psi. Cruising on the highway is different than drag racing; drag racing is different than road racing.



I like Rotella-T 5w40 synthetic. I run it in all my vehicles.

How does the amount of boost you run determine the WEIGHT of the oil you're supposed to use? I agree that the quality of the oil matters but why change the weight of the the oil from what the FSM says?

Again, I'm aware that the viscosity the FSM recommends is for a stock 4G63. If you've changed the internals ie. rods, crankshaft, cams, etc then yes, I believe you should change the weight of the oil as swapping those parts will usually change the tolerances of those parts. But I don't see why one should determine the weight of the oil based on how much boost they run.
 
... It also seemed to slow down the oil consumption...

In a 00 Jetta 2.0 I switched from a store-brand 10w30 to Rotella-T 5w40, and I went from using a quart per thousand miles (those engines are said to all use that much oil), to being able to get to the next oil change without adding.

How does the amount of boost you run determine the WEIGHT of the oil you're supposed to use? I agree that the quality of the oil matters but why change the weight of the the oil from what the FSM says?

Temperature for one. Running an engine harder means more heat in the oil; the hotter the oil the thinner it is.
 
Last edited:
I don't see why people keep choosing to deviate from the FSM. If Mitsubishi tells me that 10W-30 is the viscosity my engine needs, I'll use 10W-30. I don't understand the poeple that use thicker oils or thinners oils when the FSM clearly states thats 10W-30 is all you need regardless of how high the temperature is.

The only time I would ever use a different weight oil is if I ever modify the internals of my engine.

Because the fsm wasn't intended for cars with boost controllers, aftermarket turbos, 3" exhausts, e85 conversions, etc. The recommendations in the fsm are for bone stock cars.

How does the amount of boost you run determine the WEIGHT of the oil you're supposed to use? I agree that the quality of the oil matters but why change the weight of the the oil from what the FSM says?

Again, I'm aware that the viscosity the FSM recommends is for a stock 4G63. If you've changed the internals ie. rods, crankshaft, cams, etc then yes, I believe you should change the weight of the oil as swapping those parts will usually change the tolerances of those parts. But I don't see why one should determine the weight of the oil based on how much boost they run.

A stock 4g63t requires a film strength to support about 50 horsepower per rod journal. If you double that, don't you think you need a higher film strength to continue to float the pin in the journal?
 
Temperature for one. Running an engine harder means more heat in the oil; the hotter the oil the thinner it is.

Yes, temperature does indeed decrease the viscosity of oil but, that is why the FSM made that chart I posted. 10W-30 is good for 120+ degree weather. I know you're talking about the engine temperature though. I'm sure you already know this but when the engine is hot, the oil will have the viscosity of 30 wt oil. I agree to some point that the engine will run hotter. But that's your coolant system's job to keep it in check which in turn, also cools you're oil (oil cooler). If it gets so hot that your oil is like water, well then it's time to upgrade to an air-air oil cooler or fix your cooling system.

Since this is the automotive world, everyone has their own opinions on why they do things. Basically if a group of engineers that more than likely know more about this engine than me, tell me that 10W-30 is the optimum viscosity, I'll take their advice. To each their own.
 
Basically if a group of engineers that more than likely know more about this engine than me, tell me that 10W-30 is the optimum viscosity, I'll take their advice. To each their own.

This is the same group on engineers that built the 2g 7-bolt. They also had emissions, and fuel economy issues to consider when they decided on 10w-30. Also, oil temps can get way higher than coolant temps in a turbo car. When you mod the car, and push it, 300* oil becomes a reality.
 
This is the same group on engineers that built the 2g 7-bolt. They also had emissions, and fuel economy issues to consider when they decided on 10w-30. Also, oil temps can get way higher than coolant temps in a turbo car. When you mod the car, and push it, 300* oil becomes a reality.

Like I said, to each their own. I'm not going to keep debating over a forum as it will just be a neverending cycle eventually ending in some type of "e-hostility" towards one another. Just wanted to get my one opinion out there.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top