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Mobil 1 syn 10w-30 good for temps under 20f? Oil pressure gauge question

Posted by talontsiboy24, Dec 14, 2010

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  1. talontsiboy24

    talontsiboy24 Proven Member

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    And still nobody has nothing to say about my motor having 33k miles on it why i shouldnt use thicker oil on a low mileage car or why i should i guess it doesnt matter? Also they say synthetics are stronger then convential and they can take the heat better?

    Mobil 1 10W-30 is recommended for all types of modern vehicles, including high-performance turbo-charged, supercharged gasoline and diesel multi-valve fuel injected engines found in passenger cars, SUVs, light vans and trucks.

    Mobil 1 10W-30
    SAE Grade 10W-30
    Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 10.7
    Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 65.3
    Viscosity Index 154
    Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 1.0
    HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.26
    Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -39
    Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 230
    Density @15.6 ºC, g/ml (ASTM D 4052) 0.86

    So mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30 not good for winter?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014

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  2. MY1GDSM

    MY1GDSM Proven Member

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    Nobody has said anything because it has nothing to do with mileage its the design of the motor and the clearances in it that matter... Sure if you've got a billion miles on a car you can run a thicker oil. but theirs no reason to run a thinner oil in yours. If it was 70 out you wouldn't be doing your self any favors... I 10w-* oil when it was 5-10 degrees out last winter it's fine O an BTW I have less mileage then you...
     

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  3. 1990AWD

    1990AWD Supporting VIP

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    to the OP, Mobil 1 synthetic 10W30 will be just fine for you ALL year. you never get cold enough to need 5W30 where you live.

    enough b****ing about oil! my gosh. they're all mandated so as long as your not using Walmart brand oil you should be fine. I'm loving my Mobil 1 btw.
     
  4. DSM1G90

    DSM1G90 Proven Member

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    You oughta check out his other thread in this forum ... that one never got anywhere either. Looks like a person who really knows what is going on, but brings up topics to "play" with us to gather attention...or to draw out the sysops for the absolute answer.

    Ya, it is kinda funny for all of the other oil threads in the forum on how there was so much praise with Mobil 1, then all of a sudden, it's not a recommended oil and up pops all of these other, more expensive brands that it seems the name is carrying it more than the product itself.

    Dang, might as well head back to good ol' Vavoline/Castrol dino oils and change them out every 3k miles on the routine basis..these have never failed anybody or any motor.

    -DSM
     

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  5. MY1GDSM

    MY1GDSM Proven Member

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    Actually they have a choice whether to get certified or not but yes if they want the API SM or ILSAC gf-4/5 certification they have to have less then 800ppm
     

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  6. kimcheefists

    kimcheefists Proven Member

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    Honestly I don't just stick to one brand of oil. Oil is oil to me as long as it's synthetic since my car isn't a full blown race car. As far as what viscosity to use, let's see what Mitsubishi says....
     

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  7. DSM1G90

    DSM1G90 Proven Member

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    Kinda looks like the info that is on my driver's visor: 10w30 for temps above 32* and 5w30 for temps below 32* .. and can use 20w40 if needed for extreme conditions...

    If DSM put those figures on there, one can pretty well figure out that Mitsu knew what they were talking about ... but, these are for factory (stock) requirements.

    Why, if you're gonna crank out 1000+HP and 50 plus lbs of boost, you'd better be using the racing stuff...
     

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  8. talontsiboy24

    talontsiboy24 Proven Member

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    From that chart 10w-30 is good for -20 which is perfect for winters out here in chicago since we do go into the negatives sometimes but i def plan on bumping it up to thicker stuff come summer time say Mobil 1 syn 15w-50. My motor is pretty much a stock 6bolt besides ARP headbolts, mainbolts and rodbolts
    MLS headgasket so i should be fine with mobil 1 syn 10w-30 for winter time.
     

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  9. joat09

    joat09 Proven Member

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    Why would you change to 15w-50 in the summer? I need an explanation.

    The "Walmart brand" isn't too bad. The super tech conventional is better than the synthetic. I would choose it before Castrol, and Pennzoil.
     

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  10. talontsiboy24

    talontsiboy24 Proven Member

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    Because of the higher temps in summer time and plus the motor will be seeing heat too and 10w-30 only gets thinner in summer time so thats why i would go thicker.
     

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  11. joat09

    joat09 Proven Member

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    How is the 15w-50 any better than 5w-30 or even 0w-20?
     

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  12. knochgoon24

    knochgoon24 DSM Wiseman

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    Personally, Shell 5w-40 Rotella T6 Synthetic seems to be working fine for me. Even in this cold weather.
    Until I do an oil analysis, I won't know. I want to do one on my next oil change.
     

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  13. talontsiboy24

    talontsiboy24 Proven Member

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    I been hearing nothing but good things about shell 5w-40 rotella t6 synthetic do u get any tick with it or burn off? Seems like its more for diesel though..

    Here is the full details about shell 5w-40 rotella t6 synthetic what do u guys think better then mobil 1? http://www-static.shell.com/static/...ts_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf

    Appearance : Amber. Liquid at room temperature.
    Odour : Slight hydrocarbon.
    pH : Not applicable.
    Initial Boiling Point and
    Boiling Range
    : > 280 °C / 536 °F estimated value(s)
    Pour point : Typical -20 °C / -4 °F
    Flash point : > 230 °C / 446 °F (COC)
    Upper / lower Flammability
    or Explosion limits
    : Typical 1 - 10 %(V)
    Auto-ignition temperature : > 320 °C / 608 °F
    Vapour pressure : < 0.5 Pa at 20 &#176;C / 68 &#176;F (estimated value(s))
    Specific gravity : Typical 0.89
    Density : Typical 0.895 kg/m3
    Water solubility : Negligible.
    n-octanol/water partition
    coefficient (log Pow)
    : > 6 (based on information on similar products)
    Kinematic viscosity : > 40 cSt at 40 &#176;C / 104 &#176;F
    Vapour density (air=1) : > 1 (estimated value(s))
     
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  14. DSM1G90

    DSM1G90 Proven Member

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    :boring: ... zzzzz ....
     

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  15. kimcheefists

    kimcheefists Proven Member

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    I don't see why people keep choosing to deviate from the FSM. If Mitsubishi tells me that 10W-30 is the viscosity my engine needs, I'll use 10W-30. I don't understand the poeple that use thicker oils or thinners oils when the FSM clearly states thats 10W-30 is all you need regardless of how high the temperature is.

    The only time I would ever use a different weight oil is if I ever modify the internals of my engine.
     
  16. Ludachris

    Ludachris Founder & Zookeeper

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    Actually, the FP doc mentions all stock appearing turbos - those with journal bearings, which includes your 16g.
     

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  17. jrohner

    jrohner Proven Member

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    Depends on the mods you have and how hard you drive / the conditions. A 14B @ 14psi is going to put less stress on stuff than an HX40 at 35psi. Cruising on the highway is different than drag racing; drag racing is different than road racing.



    I like Rotella-T 5w40 synthetic. I run it in all my vehicles.
     

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  18. rich3389

    rich3389 Proven Member

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    I have been using the T6 for a while now to...Seems to keep the Subaru motors from spinning bearings as much to. If it could handle the torque of a diesel it is good for my dsm. It also seemed to slow down the oil consumption and is good to use in the winter AND summer.
     

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  19. donniekak

    donniekak DSM Wiseman

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    I use the rotella t6 5w-40 when i am in areas of the country that get cold. Here in Arizona I run vr1 synthetic 20w-50.
     

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  20. kimcheefists

    kimcheefists Proven Member

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    How does the amount of boost you run determine the WEIGHT of the oil you're supposed to use? I agree that the quality of the oil matters but why change the weight of the the oil from what the FSM says?

    Again, I'm aware that the viscosity the FSM recommends is for a stock 4G63. If you've changed the internals ie. rods, crankshaft, cams, etc then yes, I believe you should change the weight of the oil as swapping those parts will usually change the tolerances of those parts. But I don't see why one should determine the weight of the oil based on how much boost they run.
     
  21. jrohner

    jrohner Proven Member

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    In a 00 Jetta 2.0 I switched from a store-brand 10w30 to Rotella-T 5w40, and I went from using a quart per thousand miles (those engines are said to all use that much oil), to being able to get to the next oil change without adding.

    Temperature for one. Running an engine harder means more heat in the oil; the hotter the oil the thinner it is.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2010

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  22. donniekak

    donniekak DSM Wiseman

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    Because the fsm wasn't intended for cars with boost controllers, aftermarket turbos, 3" exhausts, e85 conversions, etc. The recommendations in the fsm are for bone stock cars.

    A stock 4g63t requires a film strength to support about 50 horsepower per rod journal. If you double that, don't you think you need a higher film strength to continue to float the pin in the journal?
     

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  23. kimcheefists

    kimcheefists Proven Member

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    Yes, temperature does indeed decrease the viscosity of oil but, that is why the FSM made that chart I posted. 10W-30 is good for 120+ degree weather. I know you're talking about the engine temperature though. I'm sure you already know this but when the engine is hot, the oil will have the viscosity of 30 wt oil. I agree to some point that the engine will run hotter. But that's your coolant system's job to keep it in check which in turn, also cools you're oil (oil cooler). If it gets so hot that your oil is like water, well then it's time to upgrade to an air-air oil cooler or fix your cooling system.

    Since this is the automotive world, everyone has their own opinions on why they do things. Basically if a group of engineers that more than likely know more about this engine than me, tell me that 10W-30 is the optimum viscosity, I'll take their advice. To each their own.
     
  24. donniekak

    donniekak DSM Wiseman

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    This is the same group on engineers that built the 2g 7-bolt. They also had emissions, and fuel economy issues to consider when they decided on 10w-30. Also, oil temps can get way higher than coolant temps in a turbo car. When you mod the car, and push it, 300* oil becomes a reality.
     

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  25. kimcheefists

    kimcheefists Proven Member

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    Like I said, to each their own. I'm not going to keep debating over a forum as it will just be a neverending cycle eventually ending in some type of "e-hostility" towards one another. Just wanted to get my one opinion out there.
     

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