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Metal shift forks, lsd, double syncro in my jdm transmission standard?

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pj91gsx

15+ Year Contributor
2,718
9
Nov 25, 2007
Stuart, Virginia
I took apart my jdm transmission code WQNK. It is from a 1990 galant vr4. It has a 22 spline t-case. It looks like I have a Quaife, and I have metal shift forks and some double syncros. Is that standard for the jdm transmission or did I get a hooked up transmission.
 
sounds like you got hooked up! I think i've heard of people finding what they thought were double synchros in them before, but if you've got a Quaiffe Diff, i'd say some one put it there.

Some manufacturers use them OEM but enver heard about mitsu doing it. The SRT-4 has a quaiffe standard from the factory... at elast that's what quaiffe claims on their site
 
sounds like you got hooked up! I think i've heard of people finding what they thought were double synchros in them before, but if you've got a Quaiffe Diff, i'd say some one put it there.

Some manufacturers use them OEM but enver heard about mitsu doing it. The SRT-4 has a quaiffe standard from the factory... at elast that's what quaiffe claims on their site

cool. I had to take it apart to change the front differential and the gear it turns. My other transmission had a 23 spline but I ruined the 23 spline shaft. How bad are the 22 spline should I worry about it?
 
The Evo 2 and Evo 3 transmissions also came with the option of a limited slip front differential. Can you see the clutch packs in the differential? Or does it specifically say QUAIFE on it? Mitsu did use LSDs in some of the JDM transmissions.

As well, it really sounds like an Evo trans, as it has the steel 1/2, 3/4 and 5/R shift forks, a chromoly 1/2 and 3/4 shift rail with hardened rail ends. It should also have double synchro 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Check what color the speed sensor wheel is. is it Pink? Then it should be an OEM Mitsu LSD front diff.

You will NEED to run a 58-tooth front diff ring gear (be sure to count yours), along with the US-spec output shaft pinion gear -- the one in your transmission is smaller in diameter and has a different final drive than your vehicle. The ONLY way to run the stock output shaft pinon gear with your transmission would be to swap out the rear differential for an Evo 3 one -- and I believe that it is only a direct bolt-in on a 2G, NOT on a 1G.

Be sure to swap out the output shaft pinion gear AND its bearing races. Never run a tapered roller bearing without its matched bearing race. IT WILL FAIL. If anything, purchase and install new tapered roller bearings and bearing races. The part numbers are:
Output Shaft Inner Tapered Roller Bearing MD718322 x1 $30.67
Output Shaft Outer Tapered Roller Bearing MD727861 x1 $14.08

These parts are at my cost price, so your price may be higher.

Along with swapping out the output shaft pinion gear and its bearings, you will need to swap out your output shaft to match your transfer case. Don't worry about the 22-spline output shaft -- it is plenty strong. Just be sure to inspect the splines on your output shaft and transfer case input sleeve to make sure that the splines are in good condition and are not damaged or heavily worn, as this will cause further problems in the future.

Be sure to install a new viscous coupler snap ring (MD720687) and make sure to install the viscous coupler detent ball when you put it all back together.

Any other questions you may have, just feel free to PM me, and I will answer them for you!

Good luck!
 
The Evo 2 and Evo 3 transmissions also came with the option of a limited slip front differential. Can you see the clutch packs in the differential? Or does it specifically say QUAIFE on it? Mitsu did use LSDs in some of the JDM transmissions.

As well, it really sounds like an Evo trans, as it has the steel 1/2, 3/4 and 5/R shift forks, a chromoly 1/2 and 3/4 shift rail with hardened rail ends. It should also have double synchro 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Check what color the speed sensor wheel is. is it Pink? Then it should be an OEM Mitsu LSD front diff.

You will NEED to run a 58-tooth front diff ring gear (be sure to count yours), along with the US-spec output shaft pinion gear -- the one in your transmission is smaller in diameter and has a different final drive than your vehicle. The ONLY way to run the stock output shaft pinon gear with your transmission would be to swap out the rear differential for an Evo 3 one -- and I believe that it is only a direct bolt-in on a 2G, NOT on a 1G.

Be sure to swap out the output shaft pinion gear AND its bearing races. Never run a tapered roller bearing without its matched bearing race. IT WILL FAIL. If anything, purchase and install new tapered roller bearings and bearing races. The part numbers are:
Output Shaft Inner Tapered Roller Bearing MD718322 x1 $30.67
Output Shaft Outer Tapered Roller Bearing MD727861 x1 $14.08

These parts are at my cost price, so your price may be higher.

Along with swapping out the output shaft pinion gear and its bearings, you will need to swap out your output shaft to match your transfer case. Don't worry about the 22-spline output shaft -- it is plenty strong. Just be sure to inspect the splines on your output shaft and transfer case input sleeve to make sure that the splines are in good condition and are not damaged or heavily worn, as this will cause further problems in the future.

Be sure to install a new viscous coupler snap ring (MD720687) and make sure to install the viscous coupler detent ball when you put it all back together.

Any other questions you may have, just feel free to PM me, and I will answer them for you!

Good luck!
Thanks for the info. I used the original bearings and races. I just swaped out the front differential and pinion. It was from my original trans and it is 58 teeth the other one has 64 teeth. I do have one question. When I put the last bit of the transmission together. I aired on the nuts to the last gear that goes on. Is that a bad Idea. I know that the something is wrong because I cant turn the shaft the goes to the clutch. The gears are pressing against the aluminum piece i know for sure. What do I need to do for that? I didnt see Quaife on it. I just assumed it was because it is not spider gears and. The speed gear is not pink it is the normal yellow color. The bolts holding the final drive gear to the lsd where shaved down with a grinder, is that normal?
 
Thanks for the info. I used the original bearings and races. I just swaped out the front differential and pinion. It was from my original trans and it is 58 teeth the other one has 64 teeth. I do have one question. When I put the last bit of the transmission together. I aired on the nuts to the last gear that goes on. Is that a bad Idea. I know that the something is wrong because I cant turn the shaft the goes to the clutch. The gears are pressing against the aluminum piece i know for sure. What do I need to do for that? I didnt see Quaife on it. I just assumed it was because it is not spider gears and. The speed gear is not pink it is the normal yellow color. The bolts holding the final drive gear to the lsd where shaved down with a grinder, is that normal?

Photos please!

As well, you have to be careful with installing the end shaft nuts, as they are spec'ed at 102-115 ft/lbs of torque. The 5th gear (along with the 5th intermediate gear) should NOT be pressing against the intermediate section of the transmission case. You likely have it overtorqued. The proper way to torque the end shaft nuts, is to used a splined socket or special tool to hold the input shaft splines, and then torque by hand the end shaft nuts to spec. Then you would ping the nut at the shaft detents using a punch.

Did you check the output shaft pinion gear for proper preload of .003"-.005"? What shim did you use? You could be binding up the transmission due to it not being in spec.

As well, concerning the front differential ring gear bolts, you said they were shaved down...is there any visible damage to the transmission case where the bolts could have been grinding into the case? Did you inspect your front differential roller bearings? Was the front diff shimmed? It should have .002"-.006" of preload.
 
Photos please!

As well, you have to be careful with installing the end shaft nuts, as they are spec'ed at 102-115 ft/lbs of torque. The 5th gear (along with the 5th intermediate gear) should NOT be pressing against the intermediate section of the transmission case. You likely have it overtorqued. The proper way to torque the end shaft nuts, is to used a splined socket or special tool to hold the input shaft splines, and then torque by hand the end shaft nuts to spec. Then you would ping the nut at the shaft detents using a punch.

Did you check the output shaft pinion gear for proper preload of .003"-.005"? What shim did you use? You could be binding up the transmission due to it not being in spec.

As well, concerning the front differential ring gear bolts, you said they were shaved down...is there any visible damage to the transmission case where the bolts could have been grinding into the case? Did you inspect your front differential roller bearings? Was the front diff shimmed? It should have .002"-.006" of preload.

Thanks for the info. I don't know what a shim is but i have heard of shimming a transmission. My teacher told me that if you put it back the same way you took it out, then it is good to go. I just put the thing together the same way it came out thats pretty much all I know. I used the VFAQ besides the shiming. (probably the most important part). :beatentodeath: The bolts were shaved with a grinder. I can tell because it is from different angles. I dont have any pictures because the whole transmission is together. I need to take some apart to get the last gears properly torqued and an extra ball that fell in that i droped from the transfer case shaft.:beatentodeath:
 
Thanks for the info. I don't know what a shim is but i have heard of shimming a transmission. My teacher told me that if you put it back the same way you took it out, then it is good to go. I just put the thing together the same way it came out thats pretty much all I know. I used the VFAQ besides the shiming. (probably the most important part). :beatentodeath: The bolts were shaved with a grinder. I can tell because it is from different angles. I dont have any pictures because the whole transmission is together. I need to take some apart to get the last gears properly torqued and an extra ball that fell in that i droped from the transfer case shaft.:beatentodeath:

Yeah, if you lost the output shaft detent ball inside the transmission, then you will need to take it back apart.
 
yea i have had 2 jdm trannies with steel shift forks and front lsd's, one was from a galant and the other
was an evo3.
 
yea i have had 2 jdm trannies with steel shift forks and front lsd's, one was from a galant and the other
was an evo3.

Did you ever use them? One more question. The original transmission 5th gear is 21 teeth and 33 teeth. the jdm is 22 teeth and 34 teeth. Which 5th gear set would be better to use for gas mileage or am I stuck with all of the jdm gears?
 
well the evo tranny took a dump and i put the lsd in my usdm tranny along with the forks from the galant tranny....the lsd from the galant is being used for a shep trans that is about to get assembled.
 
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