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megasquirt install progress.

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ImportWarrior

15+ Year Contributor
308
0
Jan 18, 2004
Rochester, New York
I have the harness installed soldered up to a patch
harness. The stock harness has not been touched in
any way. here are a few pics. i will have more pics
ASAP.

1995 Eagle Talon AWD
All Stock Engine
stock 1995 cam and crank sensors.
megasquirt 1 3.0 built by DIYautotune.com

I tried to crank it over just to see if i had spark. Well
i do. The mortor kicked but did not start. I really am
not ready to start it yet. I just wanted to see if it would.
I have to go through the settings more thoroughly. I did
all this in half a day. :rocks:

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More Pics to come.
 

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looks good i went with with AEM EMS because of the plug and play. But if i was going to do the mega i was going to make a harness just like you did.
 
Thanks, I had the Ms from my previous conquest install so it did not cost anything.
I did not want to hack the stock cars harness so I got the mach V patch harness.
Now all i have to do to go back to stock is just remove the patch and tuck it away
nice and neat. Then swap the coolant sensor. Plug that in and all set. I believe the
stock ECU can read the GM sensor i dont mind swapping it out. This is just for
learning thats all. somthing to do.
 
!!! ~ Warning ~ !!!

Before you turn on the megasquirt for the first time DISCONNECT the COIL, PCM Ignition Control Module, and Injectors.

You do not want to burn up anything when turning on
the megasquirt for the first time. The settings in the
megasquirt might not be proper and could send a surge
of power out. I burnt up my PCM- Ignition Control Module.


NOT every MegaSquirt ECU will be configured exactly the same. This is how mine worked out.

MegaSquirt to 2nd gen 1995 talon turbo harness pin out.

Any opinions would be nice! If i missed somthing please let me know.

I went through and noted some of the wiring for a Megasquirt harness to the 2nd gen harness. i have a patch harness from Mach-V that i cut and spliced wires to the megasquirt harness. That way i can remove it as easily as unplug the patch harness. My car is 100% stock. I want to learn how to properly tune MegaSquirt. The only added mod is a innovate WB and a IAT sensor.

Some of the sensor signals can be shared. as in spliced from dsm harness to megasquirt harness.
coils/ignitors and injectors can not be shared.

15 total connections:
MegaSquirt DB-37 pin #---------------DSM harness pin # ( MS=MegaSquirt wire color)
20--------Intake air temp-------- ran separately to GM sensor
21--------coolant temp sensor ----------83~~ or to GM Sensor MS Yellow
22--------Throttle position sensor------84 ~~MS Blue Thin Wire
23--------oxygen sensor-----------------75 rear 76 front (not sure) ~~MS Pink
24--------Crank position sensor--------89 RPM Tach CKP~MS grey shielded white wire
25--------Cam Angle Sensor------------88 TDC CMP ~~MS Blue / White IAC1A
28--------12 Volt Power-----------------25 or 12 might be switched (must be hot during cranking and when key in on position try 25 first) RED

Not shared with stock ECU- MS pin 36, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35
36--------Coil A 1 & 4 ------------------10 ~~ MS dark brown
31--------Coil B 2 & 3-------------------23 ~~MS Green / White IAC2B

32--------Injector 1-----------------------01 Bank 1 ~~MS Green Thick Wire
33--------Injector 2-----------------------14 Bank 2 ~~MS Blue Thick Wire
34--------Injector 3-----------------------02 Bank 2 ~~MS Blue Thick Wire
35--------Injector 4-----------------------15 Bank 1 ~~MS Green Thick Wire

if set to ALTERNATING you must do as above.
IF simultaneous, IT Doesn't Matter.

Optional:
MegaSquirt harness pin #------------DSM pin #

37--------Fuel Pump Relay-------------03 ( not necessary )
03--------Shift Light output
29--------Fan Relay Control Output--- to Relay, From Relay to Ground. other side of relay stock wire #20 High, other side of Relay to ground.
27--------Boost Control Output--------11 ( Ecu needs to have mod added )
06--------Tach Output Signal ( Aftermarket Tach hookup)
??--------Launch Control input--------07 ( not sure )

My DIYAutotune MegSquirt Setup for my MS-1, 3.0 ECU:
Spark - A – 36 Coil A 1 & 4~~~MS dark brown
Spark – B – 31 Coil B 2 & 3~~~MS Green / White IAC2B
Relay Control Output Fan (its output # two) – 29 ~~MS Green / White IAC1B
Boost Control – 27 ~~MS Blue / White IAC2A
CMP Top Dead Center Signal in – 25 (Cam Angle Sensor) ~~MS Blue / White IAC1A

My MS ECU was reworked for Dual Wheel to run an Eagle Talon 4G63 turbo.
MS-1 3.0 MSNS-E
Map Daddy 4 bar map with Barometer Correction
Firm Ware 029y4
Relay Control Mod for Cooling Fans
Boost Control Mod
2G Turbo ECU Pinouts:

2G Turbo ECU Pinouts

hope this helps someone.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey this is great, I was wiring my MS-II PCBv3.0 until I came to a halt because I was told I need the 1G CAS. But after so reasearch I came across this RRE Instructions and thought to myself if you putting a 1G CAS into a 2G and replacing the cam/crank sensors with the CAS to trigger the same signals into the ecu... then why can't I run my MS-II of the original cam and crank sensors?

Then you came up with this, for a MS-I but should be the principle. I going to try it tomorrow.

Also did you mod the board as per DIYautotune directions or did you try it something differernt
 
Just Remember not every ECU is the same as mine.
I actually had my MS for a few years. I sent it to DIYautotune and had matt kramer
mod it for me. I just don have time with work and all to do it myself right now. he
sent it back with a note of all the pin outs on the ECU. It is listed above. It is setup
like the DIY site says. Basically Dual Wheel. I followed this site as well. http://tinyurl.com/4ugh24 . it is
form,
MegaSquirtPR.com ::
click on the Descargas link
at very bottom is the link with (ENGLISH) next to it.
http://tinyurl.com/4ugh24

Let me know if you have any other questions. I am sure i will need some more help.
i have yet to try to start it. I just ran out of time. this weekend i will get back to it.

"
My DIYAutotune MegSquirt Setup for my MS-1, 3.0 ECU:
Spark - A – 36 Coil A 1 & 4~~~MS dark brown
Spark – B – 31 Coil B 2 & 3~~~MS Green / White IAC2B
Relay Control Output Fan (its output # two) – 29 ~~MS Green / White IAC1B
Boost Control – 27 ~~MS Blue / White IAC2A
CMP Top Dead Center Signal in – 25 (Cam Angle Sensor) ~~MS Blue / White IAC1A
"

the only problem i ran in to was that the harness i got from DIY the blue white and green
white wires were labeled all the same. i traced it out with a meeter and it only took a few
minutes.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks, I did read the MegasquirtPR install on the MS and it does help alot. I'm going back to wiring my car on Friday night and hopefully I will be starting the car on Saturday. Keep up the good work man, and good luck.
 
maybe you can share some settings with me for the first time start.

i would like to compare your
injector size
cranking settings
more cranking
after start settings

anything else you can share.
 
SUCCESS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rocks: :rocks: :rocks:

:thumb:


This is the only way i could describe how i feel.


(Stunt Double, This is not me.)

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i will do a write up and post it up as soon as i confirm it works 100%.

to sum it up. i finally got RPM and Spark. working properly. on to the next step.
 

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In the above pic there are 2 red lines, the upper one with
the 470 ohm resistor was my problem. when my board was
modded. The upper 470 ohm was not ran the path of the
red line. It was actually ran the path where you see the
black line. From pin 11 to the 5 volt proto area with the
470 ohm resistor in line.

Once i removed it from the black path and installed it in to
the normal route shown above, then changed it to a 760
ohm resistor it works perfectly !!!!!!!!

I did not have time to try it with the 470 ohm resistor only.
I installed a 470 and a 330 in series to get to 770 ohm's. it
works PERFECT. to sum up why i used a bigger one is
because my cam signal would not go below 1 volt. it has to
go from 4.00 or higher down to .99 or less to get your rpm's
and trigger to fire. once i did that it is now working properly.

Im not sure if rerouting the 470 ohm red wire made the
difference or upping the ohms to 800 ohm's made the difference.
all i know is that now i have RPM's. Tomorrow i will try to go
to the next step. Get her started.

I was also informed that the black line should not make a
difference if the 470 ohm was routed that way. I should
have just replaced the 470 ohm, resistor with a 1k resistor
to see if that would have fixed my problem.
 

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Today was a SUCCESS. I got the car started today on very
first crank of the engine. i then had to set the timing to the
required timing in the mitsu manual for a 1995 4G63 Turbo.

You do not need to ground that blue connector when setting
the megasquirt. Just go to Spark, Spark settings,
Fixed Angle (-10 = use map)(DEG) set it to what your
default timing should be when using a timing light, and
then burn it. Then get the timing light and verify it. if it
is not proper, you have to go to the Spark tab, spark
settings, Trigger Angle (DEG) and adjust the angle to
get your proper timing for your car. i believe with the stock
ECU the 95 mitsubishi is supposed to be 5 degree when
it is grounded and timing light is on.

Once i did the above locked it to 5 deg. I started with
a triger angel of 74. Then i ended up with 69 for my
trigger angle. That was where the cars timing mark on
the timing cover, and crank pulley showed 5 degrees
of timing for me. Now that that was done I burnt it to
the ECU. Then i went back to Spark, Spark settings,
Fixed Angle (-10 = use map)(DEG) set it to -10. Using
-10 means use the map for timing. then i burnt it to
the ecu. Thats it.

Hope this helps someone.
 
got the wideband in today.

First Drive.
Well i got it tuned to a point that it will
not stall when idling or reving. Now that
it will not stall when idling i decided to go
around the block. It is a tiny block about
a mile. I just cruised at 20 MPH to get
a datalog. Once that was done. I ran a tool
called megalog viewer VE analysis. It made
adjustments to the VE map. I saved it, burned
it to the MS. then went for another drive.
This time a hilly straight road in the sticks.
I drove at a consistant 35 MPH for a few
miles. Made another datalog. I then ran
megalog viewer VE analysis. Burned it to
the ECU. I then drove back at 45 MPH.
Repeat ran VE analysis. Burned it to the
MS ECU. Now i just went and drove the
car like normal. never went in to boost.
I did not want to get in to that type of
tuning as of yet. I need to get the cruise
type of tuning down. so far the drivability
is real good. The VE Analysis seems to work
better than i ever imagined. I can not wait till
i get the rest of my maintenence done. Then i
can start to push the tune a little. for now i
just need it to start with ease and idle well.

More to come.
 
hehe you guys should upgrade to ms2, it took me about 10 mins to get ms2 drivable with no map.
Its light years ahead of ms1
 
I don't see why it matters if you have MS1 or MS2... they both work and I too have MS1 (v3.0)
 
well i got my relay mod to run. after 3 different relays. i ended
up using a pilot relay. for some reason the other 2 relays are
either bad or need more power to go through them. no matter
what i did they would not work. this pilot one works great.
fans kick on when supposed to and let the cooling begin.
makes you feel good soldering all those things together and
making the fans work like you want at any temp.

:) :thumb:
 
I'm going to let my stock ECU control my relays. I had even thought about running a toggle switch to my fan relay just so I can turn the fan on when I want, even if the temp sensor hasn't told the ECU it was hot enough to turn them on.
 
i will post up a few pics tonight of megatune in my car compared to megatunix.
i think it might be a little interesting.

well here is the megatune dash / Laptop Display. im sure most of you have seen it.

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this is my custom gauges i made in megatunix this is my dash setup.

MegaTunix

interactive little older version link below
MegaTunix 0.9.7 Screenshots (MSnS-Extra029t firmware loaded)

max gauges.
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min gauges.
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i will show pics later of it running in the car. after i get out of work.



ok here is a pic of MegaTunix running in the car.

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Sorry for the slow response. i do not use idle control. i set the cranking, afterstart enrichment and warm up enrichments. that seems to make it so i do not need to adjust the idle to get the car to idle. even in 20 degree or below weather it holds an idle well. living in upstate NY this winter gave me great cold weather tuning for starts and warm up tuning.
 
FWIW, I am using a solenoid from an rx7 for fast idle on cold starts. It works pretty well. Certainly need the extra air when its cold, unless you want to set your normal idle real high to help out.
 
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