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MBC with EXTERNAL wastegate

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Heres the diagram for YOUR EXACT application, besides flying out and doing it for you this as good as its going to get. Don't be lazy either, if you need a pressure source drill/tap your IC pipe. ---> MBC Pressure Source

I hate to say it but, most reviews I've seen of this MBC tend to read something like, "This POS never worked from the day I got it." So odds are you'll be buying a different mbc in the near future so refer to every other link thats posted in here for installation. :)

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:dsm:
 
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I didn't see the letters "BOV" smashed together in either quoted post, do you?

No, you bought crap and are compensating for it now.

but manifold source = same line to bov?

and true you have me there :ohdamn:
 
using the turbosmart controller you can use the TOP diagram in post 14, but instead of it being the internal gate hook the line to the bottom port of the external gate..

it's really simple, just run a line into it, and then follow the arrow out of it to the BOTTOM port of the wastegate, i'm running the same MBC right now and i'm telling you your making this 100000 times more coimplicated than it is.. if you T off the BOV with a bleeder style MBC you'll loose pressure and vacume to it causing it and your boost gauge (since you have them hooked together) to malfunction, the boost gauge will read incorrectly and the BOV won't open like it should and even worse it won'thave full pressure on it to hold it closed under boost and will leak plain and simple.

so you can hook it up nice and simple and find a new source for the WG/MBC feed or you can do it wrong and then you'll have to post up more problems to try and have people solve.. i'm not trying to be a d1ck at all but this thread is way too long with too much argument for what you're trying to do, you can listen to those that know what they're talking about and have it turn out right or you can argue untill you're blue in the face but you will never change what's right and what's not and simply give yourself problems in the end...

do this, "T" off the source for the brakes before the check valve in it (just go close to the manifold where you "T") then you cna run the MBC/WG from there, the boost gauge can be T'd in with the FPR, but the BOV should have it's own line, nothing T'd into it.

like this BOOST SOURCE ------------------------>[MBC IN----MBC OUT]>-------------------------->BOTTOM PORT OF WASTEGATE leave top WG port open to atmosphere



EDIT; These boost controllers aren't the best but they aren't really junk. If you hook it up right and don't expect it to do anything outstanding like tripple the pressure of your wastegate spring or anythign you'll be just fine. Hell, i'm picky about what i run in my car and until i run a new line into the cabin for the boost refference on my EBC i'm just fine running this unit as my backup boost controller, I actually think it works quite well. I know on my setup 21 clicks from closed is going to give me 24psi and 30 clicks gives me 27-28'ish, and its consistant (varies with weather a tad but overall consistant)
 
using the turbosmart controller you can use the TOP diagram in post 14, but instead of it being the internal gate hook the line to the bottom port of the external gate..

it's really simple, just run a line into it, and then follow the arrow out of it to the BOTTOM port of the wastegate, i'm running the same MBC right now and i'm telling you your making this 100000 times more coimplicated than it is.. if you T off the BOV with a bleeder style MBC you'll loose pressure and vacume to it causing it and your boost gauge (since you have them hooked together) to malfunction, the boost gauge will read incorrectly and the BOV won't open like it should and even worse it won'thave full pressure on it to hold it closed under boost and will leak plain and simple.

so you can hook it up nice and simple and find a new source for the WG/MBC feed or you can do it wrong and then you'll have to post up more problems to try and have people solve.. i'm not trying to be a d1ck at all but this thread is way too long with too much argument for what you're trying to do, you can listen to those that know what they're talking about and have it turn out right or you can argue untill you're blue in the face but you will never change what's right and what's not and simply give yourself problems in the end...

do this, "T" off the source for the brakes before the check valve in it (just go close to the manifold where you "T") then you cna run the MBC/WG from there, the boost gauge can be T'd in with the FPR, but the BOV should have it's own line, nothing T'd into it.

like this BOOST SOURCE ------------------------>[MBC IN----MBC OUT]>-------------------------->BOTTOM PORT OF WASTEGATE leave top WG port open to atmosphere



EDIT; These boost controllers aren't the best but they aren't really junk. If you hook it up right and don't expect it to do anything outstanding like tripple the pressure of your wastegate spring or anythign you'll be just fine. Hell, i'm picky about what i run in my car and until i run a new line into the cabin for the boost refference on my EBC i'm just fine running this unit as my backup boost controller, I actually think it works quite well. I know on my setup 21 clicks from closed is going to give me 24psi and 30 clicks gives me 27-28'ish, and its consistant (varies with weather a tad but overall consistant)

This is very helpful, and I really appreciate it. Few simple questions.

1. (edit: nvm)
3. Right now my FMU is tee'd with my FPR. My BOV, and Boost guage are tee'd with my EGR (Goes intake, right away tee that splits to egr to another tee that splits boost guage and bov). I have cruise control also but nothing teed to it. can i tee my BOV and BoostG into my EGR? I don't have another vacuum to come from for my BOV I don't think.

Also, I'm not trying to argue, I'm a #### of alot confused haha. This shouldn't be this diffuclt, but I guess I'm being slow. It's making sense though. (Lol curse me and my programmer/engineer brain, everything has to be straight and logical)

edited

So, here's basically whats going on right now.

Full throttle, goes up to like 9 psi, then drops while still fully accelerating, continues to go down from like 6 to 4 psi, then shifted and let off gas at end.

My wasegate is connected to my compressor housing, using the method with the blue controller in post #14 (that has internal pictured).

420a turbo not running right - YouTube

:banghead:
 
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If i were you i'd tee the gauge from the FPR.. as for the BOV, well since the EGR is un-operable when wide open you could possibly put those two on the same line..best bet to drll a few new holes and get some 1/8NPT pipe fittings with nipples and add some ports for a n/t mani that is going turbo.

The BOV usually needs it's own supply, not saying it' impossible to "T" it to soething but you have to T it to something that doesn't bleed off air or fluctuate in pressure under WOT

hope that helps

glenn
 
If i were you i'd tee the gauge from the FPR.. as for the BOV, well since the EGR is un-operable when wide open you could possibly put those two on the same line..best bet to drll a few new holes and get some 1/8NPT pipe fittings with nipples and add some ports for a n/t mani that is going turbo.

The BOV usually needs it's own supply, not saying it' impossible to "T" it to soething but you have to T it to something that doesn't bleed off air or fluctuate in pressure under WOT

hope that helps

glenn

guage is now teed with egr by itself, my fmu is teed with fpr(will guage effect this?) my bov is in the port where my cruise control is. still havin problems. (i unplugged my cruise control vacuum for now.)
 
Nothing you just said matches to any provided diagram...
 
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