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2G massive idle surge guru's please help

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n1ck0sp

Probationary Member
8
0
Apr 20, 2014
baxter, Minnesota
n1ck0sp
New Member


Join Date: May 2014
Location: baxter
Drives: 96 gst spyder
Posts

96 gst spyder
Stock turbo ecu etc..
1g cas
Balance shaft delete
1g head and air intake.
Boost leak tested. .passed ;> 15 psi
New tps.

Hard to start. Have hold down gas All the way. Had it started adjusted the timing.
The markers lined up good until it surged then the marks looked to be half a tooth off?

Seemed to run fine. But during idle it has an idle surge of almost 500 rpm. Thinking maybe a dirty throttle body. Cleaning that tomorrow morning.

I changed the firing order on the spark plugs for the one g cas but did not change the injectors or the ecu from oem firing order.

Tried adjusting the biss screw the o ring is still on it.
Turbo is in great working order no shaft play or oil build up.
I'm wondering if I should switch the injectors around or is there any thing I'm over looking. I'm a complete noobie. I've done lots of reading. And just trying to make sence of all of it. Please help.
 
line up the marks again. if you say half a tooth, that's 3.75deg of timing already off.

'looked to be' isn't good enough for timing issues... :nono:

hard to start may point to a timing belt install issue and with your cam and crank timing...

if you did the magnus/rre 1G-2G CAS mod, plug wires and ECU will need rearranging...

checking the belt timing is, for me, step 0...
 
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Ok checked the timing. All the points still line up the cam gears and the crank. I didn't care about the oil bc of balance shaft delete. I thought just moving the spark plug wires would do. I moved them to how the image uploaded showes on the right. Have you ever swapped the injector wires? I don't want to extend the wires just bc issues that could arise in the future?
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I adjusted the timing when the engine was running and turning the cas while checking it with a timing gun with the cable hooked up to the 1 spark plug wire. when the car was running. when it surged it went one tooth off and when the Rpms where at 1000 the timing went back into ailment. Then surged again?:banghead:
 
so it went one tooth off, then got back?

wait...tooth means cam gear tooth?

or are you meaning the timing mark?

when you checked the timing with the light, did you attach a jumper wire to ground and to the ignition timing adjustment terminal by the firewall?
 
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Thanks for sticking with me. So pos and neg to battery for the timing light. the clamp around the cylinder one spark plug wire. Between the coil pack and spark plug. Then checked the timing marks on the cams by pointing the light at them. adjusting the the cas. Till the intake and the exhaust timing marks line up. Then it would surge go off time then rev back up while in time.
 
Ok I'm going to try this again tomorrow thanks again for the in fo and I'll check back here with results thanks again
 
Its sounds like you are confusing mechanical timing and ignition timing. You should not be pointing the light at the cams for any reason. Did you ground the timing check connector?
Mechanical timing requires the marks on the cams to be lined up relative to the crank. This is true always. Ignition timing shows the spark event relative to the crank position and is what youre trying to adjust. You must remove ecu control by grounding the check connector on the firewall.
 
Ok got the car timed up and made the mistake of starting the car with out the maf plugged in idle fine. No surge no nothing. Then plugged it back in instantly surging again. I'm wondering if it's possible that the sensor is bad and would cause this issue. I've also saw a you tube video where they took the sensor apart and cleaned it and worked fine. Have you ever done this before ? And as always this sight rules. :mrt:
 
What BOV do you have?
Does it vent to atmosphere?
If so, make sure it is not opening at idle and sucking in unmetered air.

Might not be a bad idea to check the intake manifold and make sure nothing is leaking on that or where it meets the head.

You also said that you boost leak tested it. If that still holds true, make sure there isn't any way for air to get to the inlet of the turbo after the MAF.
 
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