Manifold to turbo seal

[Srt4RacerDave]

I'm putting a new turbo to manifold gasket in my car because my current one is blown out and causes me to boost slow But either way, I heard using Permatex Ultra Copper
was safe and (?) recommend for this gasket? I know the only place you can't use it is the manifold the head gasket. True/false? I've been dealing with a leaky connection here for a while and am looking for a permanent solution. Thanks

 

[garage16]

I know alot of guys who dont run a gasket but they use high heat silcone.

 

[kahl23]

First, do you really mean ultra copper, like this stuff:
http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...mum_Temperature_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

That's a silicone product, which AFAIK no one uses on the head. Permatex does make a copper spray:PERMATEX 80697 Copper SPRAY-A-GASKET Hi Temp Adhesive Sealant $8.95 BUY ONLINE which some people do use on the head. You should note the suggested operating temps on these products, the RTV is 700*F, the spray is 500*F. Realize that exhaust gasses get much, much hotter than 700*F, and that I would expect any gasket that you would make solely out of the RTV would be toast in about 5 minutes of WOT driving. I've never tried it, I never will unless I'm stuck on the side of the road with copper RTV and no mani-turbo gasket, YMMV. I have, however, used the spray on my mani-turbo gasket, mostly just to keep it in place while I'm installing the parts, that stuff is sticky as hell. I've never noticed a leak, so I'd say if it doesn't actively help seal, at least it doesn't hurt the seal. I would say use a multilayer steel gasket, not a single piece gasket, and spray it if you want to. If it were up to me I would stay away from the RTV in that application.

 

[treckin]

extreme PSI makes a nice 7cm solid steel gasket that I use... Never had a problem at all with it!

If you have chronic leaks in that area, you may have a snapped turbo bolt. Those are awfully common. You should change all 4 when you replace that gasket anyway:

Gasket: (click pics for links to products)

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Bolts:

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[EGGY]

i have used the same gasket from extreme psi on a couple diff turbos and never had a prolem

 

[kahl23]

If you are running a solid SS gasket without problems, consider yourself lucky. I have personally had 3 turbo bolts snap off in the turbine housing because of a warped solid gasket, if you need any more evidence look at these:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...ifold-gasket-use-copper-stainless-gasket.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/293899-look-what-happened-ss-turbo-gasket.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...tainless-steel-7cm-turbo-manifold-gasket.html

And treckin, please please please tell me you didn't just suggest that he use ARP turbo bolts? Those have been proven time and again to be complete crap, search "ARP turbo bolts" to see why. My advice would be use all OEM stuff, OEM turbo bolts, OEM conical lock washers, 2 on a bolt. If you're running a tubular mani that doesn't allow for enough space to use bolts, my suggestion is to get 4 of the studs that thread into the stock O2 housing, 4 of the nuts that go on them, and 8 conical lock washers. That's what we run on our DNP/3052 setup, so far so good.

 

[treckin]

OK, I can certainly see that there have been a lot of problems with these pieces for members.

I must be the outlier point here...

I have had no problems with either of these pieces... Of note, the ExtremePSI gaskets are not those from RRE, they are custom made for them...

Anyhow, I use the SS ARP's and they have not broken for me. I broke two BRAND new OEM ones... with only 400 miles on them, while using an MLS OEM gasket.

To the OP:

There are stories on either side. This is one of those decisions you will have to make for your self.

 

[kahl23]

Of note, the ExtremePSI gaskets are not those from RRE, they are custom made for them...


There are stories on either side. This is one of those decisions you will have to make for your self.

Note: the third link I posted is one of the ExtremePSI gaskets, not an RRE one.

While I agree it is up to you to decide what you put on your car, I would seriously suggest against the ARP bolts and the solid stainless gasket, simply because of the plethora of horror stories about both. Treckin I'm not trying to rag on you, I just want the OP to avoid a big hassle down the line by using good parts from the get-go.

Here's some info on the ARPs, and SS turbo bolts in general:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...old-turbo-bolts-ffwd-oem-stainless-studs.html

 

[Srt4RacerDave]

Well lets get this thread back on track. I do have that exact same gasket from extreme PSI. The 7mm thick one that was posted up earlier. I was going to put that one in, but I see that my old (old) metal gasket that was in there before the current blown out one is considerably thicker then the new extremePSI one. Should I go with my old thicker one or try the new extremePSI 7mm gasket? I'm 99% sure I did not crack any bolts, because the new manifold I put in came with brand new bolts and I can physically feel the exhaust gas leaking out where the manifold is blown out. So, to get this straight so far, I should NOT use the gasket sealer? I read in another thread that it was a good idea to use, but apparently not. So my new question is,

Go with the old thicker (possibly 12-14mm?) gasket, or, use my new 7mm extremePSI gasket? Again I'm looking for a GOOD permanent solution because I'd like to feel strong boost in my DSM again Thanks in advanced to anyone who offers advice / already has replied.


Edit: Kahl23, the first link you entered was what I was talking about. Not the spray. Just to clarify.

 

[kahl23]

Personally I would say shell out the 30 or so dollars for an OEM multilayer (and by OEM I mean for the Evo, not DSMs, something like this in 7cm Forced Performance Turbochargers: Mitsubishi DSM Turbine Housing Inlet Gasket), make sure the new bolts are OEM, and make sure you have the lock washers I was talking about, and then not have to worry about it. I would not use the RTV sealant, I have used the copper spray and never really had issues with leaking, but you could probably get away without it. I would make sure that your sealing surfaces are flat (use a straight edge) and clean (brake cleaner sprayed on and wiped off with a rag/paper towel works wonders on carbon deposits, which you are sure to have if you're leaking now.) I would say that is how I would go if I were to do it. In a pinch though, if your old gasket looks like it isn't warped, I would say use it over a thinner piece, more material to absorb the heat means it will probably be less prone to distortion than the thinner one. Again, make sure everything is clean.

 

[Srt4RacerDave]

Thank you for your response. I think going with the old gasket (after being cleaned off) would be the best bet. The bolts in the manifold now are the new pacesetter ones. I'm ALMOST thinking of putting the OEM ones back in, but I'm not sure yet. Yeah I am trying to get this fixed once and for all. You're also right about the carbon deposit, though the old gasket does not have any on it because it wasn't leaking when it was in there previously. If all this doesn't fix it, I'm almost thinking of putting my old 2g manifold back on. Atleast I think that never leaked.

 

[DSMunknown]

Personally, I have also used the SS gasket Extreme PSI sells with a thin layer of the Ultra Copper RTV on both sides without a problem for years. Has worked as expected for me. Good luck reusing the old gasket.