Manifold to Turbo just wont seal

[tunernewb92]

Ok so we replaced the exhaust, broke a bolt and had to pull the turbo completely out of the car to get the bolt out. We also replaced the 1g mani with a 2g ported mani. When we got it all bolted back up and cranked it, we discovered that it was leaking on the back drivers side of where the manifold and turbo connect. Forgot to put copper RVT on it DUH... so off it came again. This time when we took it off a bolt sheared off on the front drivers site of the four bolts that hold all that together. We tried drilling, tapping, hammering, nothing could get it out, but when the car was first bought there was a missing bolt in the same spot and it didn't leak. Anyway, we put the copper RVT sealant, a new generic gasket (that is basically a flat plate with a hole in the center) and put it back on. Waited about 30 minutes and cranked it up. Ran the crap out of the car for like 15-20 minutes to hear the new Apexi N1 exhaust, brought it back and killed it. Yesterday afternoon it developed a leak in the same place again. I don't think this is from not having that front bolt because its leaking in the back on the same side where there is a bolt. Did we not wait long enough for the RVT to dry maybe, or is there some other gasket that we need to be using, like the 2g version, should we just use grease and let it harden up and make its on gasket instead of RVT. We need to get this fixed because obviously the turbo won't spool as fast and as hard with an exhaust leak.

 

[Boosted_out]

That copper RTV isnt gonna hold. The temps get way to hot right by the mani and turbo and that sealant is only good to 700 degrees.
My exhaust temps at WOT get up to 1500-1600

 

[tunernewb92]

Ah, so what do I do then, use grease because the new gasket won't seal, should I just use the old one...the hole in the center has turned from O to 0 so it has sorta enlongated. It also has a small crack in it, but otherwise the outside edges of it seem to be in good shape.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

That copper RTV isnt gonna hold. The temps get way to hot right by the mani and turbo and that sealant is only good to 700 degrees.
My exhaust temps at WOT get up to 1500-1600

Some people will argue this statement. DSMJim who I believe is a wiseman here recommend the use of copper RTV on manifold to turbo, and o2 housing gasket as wel. Actually he recommended it for any exhaust gasket. And has claimed no leaks, he did have a notable setup for me not to argue with him, thus I use the same, with no leaks as well.

 

[No_Skillz]

Some people will argue this statement. DSMJim who I believe is a wiseman here recommend the use of copper RTV on manifold to turbo, and o2 housing gasket as wel. Actually he recommended it for any exhaust gasket. And has claimed no leaks, he did have a notable setup for me not to argue with him, thus I use the same, with no leaks as well.

On the other hand, I use an SS gasket with no RTV or sealant of any kind, and I have no leaks either.

Either way, the most important thing is to make sure both surfaces are flat. Use of sealant is up to you, but no amount of sealant will help if one of the surfaces is warped too badly.

 

[Boosted_out]

I have had nothing but success with RTV copper in any other spot on my exhaust. But no such luck near the mani and I have let it sit for a whole day.

But hey give it a shot again, im not gonna say its deffinetly not gonna work, but its not gonna work if you only let it sit for 30 minutes.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

On the other hand, I use an SS gasket with no RTV or sealant of any kind, and I have no leaks either.

Either way, the most important thing is to make sure both surfaces are flat. Use of sealant is up to you, but no amount of sealant will help if one of the surfaces is warped too badly.

yea my older dsm just had the SS gasket which several have claimed to warp. (its the gasket all venders sell, including RRE and SBR) also with no leaks and no warpage issue even after removal with heavy mileage.

People claim to have problem with both successful methods, so who knows what is going on. I've found either to work just fine.

 

[pboglio]

You need to:

1) Fix the broken off bolt, retap, replace with new bolt
2) Resurface manifold and turbo mating surfaces, I do this myself with a flat file.
3) Use an OEM 6cm or 7cm multilayered gasket from Mitsubishi

Problem solved. RTV on the turbo/manifold interface turns to powder, totally useless. Maybe copper would work here, never tried it. Try not to torque or remove the turbo/manifold bolts unless the turbine housing is good and hot. I've never stripped threads doing it this way.

 

[tunernewb92]

You need to:

1) Fix the broken off bolt, retap, replace with new bolt
2) Resurface manifold and turbo mating surfaces, I do this myself with a flat file.
3) Use an OEM 6cm or 7cm multilayered gasket from Mitsubishi

Problem solved. RTV on the turbo/manifold interface turns to powder, totally useless. Maybe copper would work here, never tried it. Try not to torque or remove the turbo/manifold bolts unless the turbine housing is good and hot. I've never stripped threads doing it this way.

Please don't flame me, but its not leaking from the edge where there is no bolt so why would I need to replace it.... and believe me I would tap it out if I could...but its not moving at all, i and 360glitch have tried and it won't budge. When you say resurface, just get a file and smooth out any parts that arn't flat im guessing right?

 

[pboglio]

Yeah, just grab a bastard cut file and file it flat, then switch to a smooth cut or 2nd cut file. I check with a straight edge and feeler gauge. I try to get within .005" flatness, the gasket will take up the rest.

For drilling that bolt out, which I highly recommend, I'd suggest a carbide tipped drill bit.
Mcmaster has them for around $15-$30 per, depending on diameter. You'll probably want something like .125" in diameter for starting the pilot hole, then maybe something smaller than the bolt diameter. This will cut thru anything as hard as an 18-8 stainless bolt, which is harder than your manifold bolt. I've not had luck with bolt extractors as if they break, and they will, your looking at drilling thru something that is as hard as your drill bit.

 

[tunernewb92]

So if i didn't use a bolt extractor, what would I, we, do? Just literally get a bit as big as the bolt and drill it all out? Can you even rethread stuff thats as hard and as thick as the turbo

 

[andy4g63]

And for the future, you could use these LOCK washers, on top of factory ones, in case something is getting loose. Nord-Lock - Products

You could buy them at:Totally Stainless

They have all different sizes. I'zve use dsome of these very successful.

 

[dsmnightracer]

get the right gasket and fix the broken bolt, and you will not have a problem.

 

[tunernewb92]

Again, how do I drill out the bolt because i can't get at it from the bottom due to its location and ive tried easy outs and they failed so how do I drill it out.

 

[pboglio]

Bolt diameter is 24/64" or .375", so you'd want a drill bit maybe 5/16" or .312". McMaster has it for $18. Its P/N 2973A28, single flute carbide tipped drill bit. You want to drill a smaller pilot so the bigger drill bit can get some bite into the bolt.

The goal is to drill down dead center of the bolt to weaken it internally. I'd drill a pilot very lightly until I got it started EXACTLY dead center. After that its all downhill.

Use a good amount of WD40 as cutting fluid if there isn't anything else around. I'd start out medium speed on the drill. It'll go slow but it will cut thru that bolt. Be careful with these carbide drill bits, they are brittle like you wouldn't believe. Drill straight up and down, DO NOT side load these bits. If one breaks off inside the bolt you are really **cked.

Easy outs are garbage and the torque you'd need to get the bolt out is more than a 2 ft breaker bar can apply. You can use the easy out AFTER you drill thru the bolt. By coring thru the bolt your allowing it to relax and an easy out should work then. Otherwise I'd use a smaller tap size and start tapping the hole. By successively tapping up bigger and bigger, your sort of manually drilling the hole to the final size. The final tap will just then clean up the original threaded hole without damage and should be as good as new.