The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

low Oil pressure in head causing knock or spun rod

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Littlebeeper

15+ Year Contributor
310
1
Feb 15, 2004
Corpus Christi, Texas
My cams in my Laser don't seem to get enough oil. when i look at them through the oil filler hole there isn't any oil visibly being flung around the lobes. In my Talon i can clearly see the lobes shooting oil all around. some droplets even come out the oil filler hole.

The Laser started knocking recently but not at idle. Only around 2K rpm and then it quiets up a bit after that. It runs fine, has plenty of oil pressure, and perfect compression ( over 150 on all 4 cylinders while cold). i'm thinking spun rod or maybe oil starvation at the head? the car has its balance shaft removed and new oil pump, and all timing.

I removed the valve cover and started the motor with it off. the hole circled in yellow shot oil high enough to hit the hood and splashed all over the engine bay. i'm thinking it ain't supposed to do that. maybe a lifter is clogged? has this happened to anyone? maybe a broken rocker? i know the holes circled in red are for the lifter drains and no oil came out of those
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
My cams in my Laser don't seem to get enough oil. when i look at them through the oil filler hole there isn't any oil visibly being flung around the lobes. In my Talon i can clearly see the lobes shooting oil all around. some droplets even come out the oil filler hole.

The Laser started knocking recently but not at idle. Only around 2K rpm and then it quiets up a bit after that. It runs fine, has plenty of oil pressure, and perfect compression ( over 150 on all 4 cylinders while cold). i'm thinking spun rod or maybe oil starvation at the head? the car has its balance shaft removed and new oil pump, and all timing.

I removed the valve cover and started the motor with it off. the hole circled in yellow shot oil high enough to hit the hood and splashed all over the engine bay. i'm thinking it ain't supposed to do that. maybe a lifter is clogged? has this happened to anyone? maybe a broken rocker? i know the holes circled in red are for the lifter drains and no oil came out of those
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I am bumping this thread as I am having a similar problem. I just finished up a rebuild and was getting a lot of what I thought was lifter tick so I went back in and replaced the original lifters from the 1G 6 bolt with the revised 3g lifters. The install went smoothly but I'm still getting a loud noise that is far from normal and doesn't seem like lifter tick. Like the previous poster, the sound starts just under 2K, peaks at about 2K, and then quiets down after 2K. I haven't pushed the motor much past that, as I am afraid of what may happen. Then engine has at least 10 minutes of driving on it and maybe 30 total minutes of idling time. I drained the oil and did not see any obvious metal flakes in it or anything. Any advice? :confused:
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I am also having this same issue Can some one shed some light on this situation. my BS are removed and I changed to revises 3g lifters and they still sound like the 1g pieces of S#@$! I never rebuilt the head. It had 80k but I had it turned upside down and side ways, when I was rebuilding to drain the old oil bad idea? my block has oil squirters still and front BS bearing turned to not line up rear has no bearing and stub shaft. new oil pump. only 200 miles on the build. exhausted i haven't been driving it in case the inevitable happens HELP US PLEASE! I love my DSM I don't want to part with it after I put all this work into it.
 
Has anyone figured out why we are having this problem after BS removal? our bearings are flipped. And the rear BS gets oil from the shaft so no need for one there correct? Read somewhere it didn't need to be flipped so I didn't. My car sound like a diesel at start up after 2k its normal and after driving a bit its ok there is oil coming through the lifters. just doesn't seem like enough on start up should I be running 10-40, I was running 5-30 for cold start ups and to break it in.
I have JE pistons .20 could it be piston slap? my rings gaps are top .19 second .22 and the oil rings are the factory specs. I'm lost and frustrated please point me it the right direction.:hellyeah:
 
man im doin the same mods, 3g lifters, BS removal, and oversized pistons :( man please say this wont happen to me

what if its because the BS are removed causing excess virbation and sound you arnt used to
 
mine was due to spun rod bearing. removed spark one at a time to each cylinder and it quieted down. i did notice though that some heads have that 1 hole i circled welded shut. when i put my finger to block oil from squirting out, the cams would get a lot of oil and i could see it flung all over the place. still seems to get good oil with it open, its just not easily visible.
 
Did you guys do the BS removal properly? As plugging all the holes and what not. I know that may be a dumb question but it does happen? Are you sure the sound doesn't continue as it goes higher in the rpm's and you just cant hear it? Normally when things are only in certain rpm's it points to bad bearings as the lower rpms things are moving slow enough to be thrown out of balance and allow the knock, but as you rev higher things are moving so fast the rod/crank doesn't have a chance to wobble as much on the bad bearing therefor it gets quiter. Someone else chym in hear if im wrong but im pretty sure thats correct.
Try using a mechanics stethoscope and have someone hold your rev and slowely go higher and higher from idle to about 3 or 4k. Listen to the top of the motor then jack her up and put her to the back of the block and also to the oil pan. This will help you figure out where the noise is the loudest and it will tell you if it infact does still continue in higher rpm's.
 
It sounded like this on first start up all was prelubed correctly my main bearings clearance is .003 and so are the rods I'm within spec. all the bearings to the balance shafts were sealed by turning them to block the oil ports. the rear balance shaft didn't need one cause the oil comes from the shaft I read. Miss informed maybe, some one chime in here please. I had the block decked 5 thou and never did the oil port mod maybe I should have taken the extra 5 minutes and did it. I'll try the spark plug removal to destinguish is its rod knock but I doubt it. I will post my results.

littlebeeper, your saying it didn't get good oil pressure with your finger off but once you put your finger on it the oil went where it needed to?

man im doin the same mods, 3g lifters, BS removal, and oversized pistons :( man please say this wont happen to me

what if its because the BS are removed causing excess virbation and sound you arnt used to

You don't even notice the vibrations all my parts are balanced and I have stock mounts. don't let these post discourage you plenty of people have done this to there cars and have good results. maybe i forgot something but as i look back i did it all by the book. and researched like crazy.
 
Last edited:
You don't even notice the vibrations all my parts are balanced and I have stock mounts. don't let these post discourage you plenty of people have done this to there cars and have good results. maybe i forgot something but as i look back i did it all by the book. and researched like crazy.

I have no balance shafts and i got quite a bit of vibration manly threw the steering wheel but the entire car vibrates. It's worse in lower rpms. But i also have polyurethane motor mounts,tranny mounts, and all my bushings and stuff are also potyurethane all the way threw the car:D
 
so I just pin pointed my problem It's F#$%#@NG Rod knock its faint so I think I got it in time. My lifters are getting plenty of oil I got a helper and took the valve cover off with the spark plugs, and cranked it to see oil going where it needed to. I did the plug removal when running to come up with cylinder 2 to be the culprit so I'll be changing all the rod bearings just in case i missed something while I'm in there. Just to make sure when I drop the pan do to tell, I can wiggle the rod on the crank correct?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
so I just pin pointed my problem It's F#$%#@NG Rod knock its faint so I think I got it in time. My lifters are getting plenty of oil I got a helper and took the valve cover off with the spark plugs, and cranked it to see oil going where it needed to. I did the plug removal when running to come up with cylinder 2 to be the culprit so I'll be changing all the rod bearings just in case i missed something while I'm in there. Just to make sure when I drop the pan do to tell, I can wiggle the rod on the crank correct?

Ya more than likely it will wiggle. The best thing to do is look for metal shavings in the oil and oil pan.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top