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Loud knocking noise

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I know at Advance they have a kit that comes with all the bearings (main and rod) and a remain crank, for $175. Right now I am trying to see how much money I can get a hold of. I do know that the motor was from a dodge neon and they changed the head to the eclipse head, and the timing stuff was all replaced when they did it. The girl I bought it from did all this and I talked to her mechanic and she only had the car for 4 or 5 months but she sold it cause the suspension was screwed up and needed a lot of work to fix it.
 
well if you want it fixed theres not much of a way around it. you have to get the crank and rod caps mic'd at a machine shop. its pretty hard to do that with the motor in so if it was me i would pull the motor and get it on an engine stand. if it all checks out it wont cost you more then 100 bucks for them to check everything. your going to spend around $400 if you do it all yourself. as long as you go by the book and torque everything down it will be fine untill you do a full rebuild. from the pictures it doesnt like too bad i have seen alot worse.
 
I'm already getting it ready to pull the motor Saturday night when I get a cherry picker. Still looking for an engine stand. The only two people I know have an engine on it. My luck.
 
Get a full kit from parts dinosaur on ebay, good seller,good parts and fast shipping.
 
Well number 3 was spun but I don't think that was my knock. We finally got the motor out and is completely apart. and this is number 2
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And the crank is scratched :cry:.
Got a lot of questions and I am sure all stupid ones but I want to be 110% sure of what I need.
I am going to get the cylinder walls honed. Do I need to get the next size up (.020).

I am also getting a rebuild crank kit from Advance. It comes with a remain crankshaft that has been micro-polished, and all bearings. What I am confused about this is I am going to have to get my rods polished. What size bearings do I need to get. Standard or go I need to get bigger size bearings?

And do I need to get the block polished where the main bearings go?

That is all I can think of right now but I'm sure I have more. All the help is greatly appreciated. I need my daily driver back as fast as possible and school is about to start.
 

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For the cylinders you will need to hone them and them measure them to determine the ptw clearance. If it is excessive than you will need to bore it. For the crank and bearings the crank kit will come with the correct size bearings. For the damaged rods you can find a machine shop that will recondition them, i would recommend getting them all reconditioned. I would seriously consider just getting your current crank turned over buying one of those crank kits also. Most of the time they do an awful job machining those cranks so you will likely have problems with it. I would look into buying a re-ring kit from mizumo on ebay. You can usually get rings, bearings and gaskets for around 100 bucks.
 
The reason I was going to get the crank kit is because of money. It cost $175 vs. getting the crank turned which is $200 plus the cost of bearings. I want to send everything to the machine shop at the beginning of the week and I need to make sure I know what to tell them. I was planning on getting all the rods done. Should I just go ahead and get the cylinder walls bored and save the trouble?
Thanks for the help so far.
 
The reason I was going to get the crank kit is because of money. It cost $175 vs. getting the crank turned which is $200 plus the cost of bearings. I want to send everything to the machine shop at the beginning of the week and I need to make sure I know what to tell them. I was planning on getting all the rods done. Should I just go ahead and get the cylinder walls bored and save the trouble?
Thanks for the help so far.

Take the crank elsewhere if they want 200 to turn it. The going rate in most places is around 100 bucks. As i said, most of the time those crank kits have improperly cut cranks which will cause your engine to fail. They are done by low paid employees in a large factory like machine shop who aren't trained properly. It's a far better idea to have your specific crank checked and machined by a shop so you know exactly what is wrong with it and what was done to it. As for the cylinders, you are going to have to buy new pistons if you have the cylinders bored out. 95 percent of the time you will be fine with a hone, and new rings.
 
Okay, I will try other machine shops and see their prices. That did seem high to me.
If I have the crank turned what about the rods and the on the block where the main bearings go. How does the bearing size work.
 
Okay, I will try other machine shops and see their prices. That did seem high to me.
If I have the crank turned what about the rods and the on the block where the main bearings go. How does the bearing size work.

The bearings are sized according to the crank. The crank journals will be smaller in diameter after the crank is cut. The new bearings will be thicker to take make the clearance right on the crank. The rods will be machined back to the original size so nothing will change there. They do this by taking the cap and shaving flange where it bolts to the rod down. Doing this will make the bore of the rod a smaller diameter than it was originally (before the damage). From there they will hone the rod out to the correct size.
 
if you dont have a good machine shop around you look for some that are close by and reputable. if they are cheaper then the one that wants 200 bucks to turn the crank (which is crazy high) you can send it else where and still save money. when i did my bottom end i had the machine shop look at everything then ordered my bearings which i went .10 over on main and rod bearings. most of the time when they are scarred thats the size they will go to. also depending on the scratches on the crank they might be able to just polish them out if they arnt to deep in the metal. which wont cost as much to grind it down. just take the right steps with what your doing because machine work means everythinng to the build. to give you an idea it costed me 1000 bucks to fully balence my bottom end, bore, port and polish my head, cut the crank and assemble the whole motor. good luck man
 
Okay, make sure I got everything they need to do.
Turn the crank, recondition all the rods, and hone the cylinder walls.
I need .010 oversize rod and main bears, standard size rings.
The kit comes with new pistons so do I need to get them pressed to the connecting rods?
The kit I am planning on getting is this one.
Eagle Talon 2.0 420A 16V Engine Rebuild Kit | eBay

Does this all look right?
And thanks again you all are saving me a lot of head ache. Can't thank you all enough.
 
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Cut your losses, and buy a used engine from a junkyard. You're going to dump, at least $800+ into parts and machine work just to half rebuild an abused old engine with a twice as old cylinder head, and an ametuer skill set. It probably needs rods, a crank, possibly new pistons. Bore, hot tank, mill head, timing components, ete etc...

You can probably buy a used engine with a 30 day warranty for $300-$400.
 
Well the cheapest engine I could find around me is $550. About $50 less than what this rebuild is going to cost. Than I got to find a truck to pick it up. Took a week to find one to get the engine hoist. And than on top of that I have no idea what that motor has been through and if it has any hidden problem that are going to show up after warranty is over. The head has roughly 150k miles on it and everything thing on it checks out. The block on the other hand is from a dodge neon we believe and has high mileage and has been worked on before.
So I see it that it would be smarter to rebuild the bottom end of this motor and call it a day. Engine wont be leaking oil vs. a used motor I know nothing about. I was already planning on rebuilding the motor at the beginning of next year. Now I'll just have to rebuild the head.
This isn't my first time rebuilding an engine. Just the first time having to order and figure out what I need.
 
Cut your losses, and buy a used engine from a junkyard. You're going to dump, at least $800+ into parts and machine work just to half rebuild an abused old engine with a twice as old cylinder head, and an ametuer skill set. It probably needs rods, a crank, possibly new pistons. Bore, hot tank, mill head, timing components, ete etc...

You can probably buy a used engine with a 30 day warranty for $300-$400.

This is very true.

mitecl96: If the junkyards around your town do not have a 420a for cheap, then I suggest driving 100 miles up to clarksville TN, there are 6 420a in the eclipses just chillin'. the long blocks are going for 148 dollars exactly.(you must bring your own tools and pull it, or they can do it for you for a small fee.)

Pick-A-Part | Clarksville, TN – Your do-it-yourself parts yard

hope you choose this option, as its the cheapest and fastest method.

P.s. If you do decide to come up here, I live 1.2 miles away from the junkyard and I got all the tools you may need if you happen to forget something or need something you dont have i.e. cherry picker.:cool:
 
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This is very true.

mitecl96: If the junkyards around your town do not have a 420a for cheap, then I suggest driving 100 miles up to clarksville TN, there are 6 420a in the eclipses just chillin'. the long blocks are going for 148 dollars exactly.(you must bring your own tools and pull it, or they can do it for you for a small fee.)

Pick-A-Part | Clarksville, TN – Your do-it-yourself parts yard

hope you choose this option, as its the cheapest and fastest method.

P.s. If you do decide to come up here, I live 1.2 miles away from the junkyard and I got all the tools you may need if you happen to forget something or need something you dont have i.e. cherry picker.:cool:

Dang, why is everything around me so expensive. If that is the case I will do that. Stupid question but do the engines run and can I start them. And I most likely will need your help. The main thing though is you have a cherry picker, right.
 
Dang, why is everything around me so expensive. If that is the case I will do that. Stupid question but do the engines run and can I start them. And I most likely will need your help. The main thing though is you have a cherry picker, right.

Sadly there's no way to test the engine before you buy it from a junk yard, but they do offer a warranty on all times sold for an extra fee of course.

I suggest to visit the webpage, look at the prices, give them a call. they might be able to have the engine ready for pickup for you for a small price. they are very honest people.
 
I just gave them a call and its a little less than $200 for an engine. They suggested to either do a compression test or bring a battery and some gas and hot wire it to see if it runs.
About $80 for gas and than tools and everything going to cost about $400 for me so I not sure if its worth that to get a used motor.
 
Seems like a good one. It's something to think about till I get paid. For the rebuild did I list everything that I'll need to rebuild the bottom end.
 
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