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Loss of power at idle to 2500rpm

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chris r

Probationary Member
11
0
Aug 21, 2009
Lynnwood, Washington
New to DSM just got this 95 eclipse gst I have loss of power from idle to 2500rpm sounds to me like a fuel problem but it almost seems like it is getting to much fuel. After 2500rpm it runs very good spools up no problems. Please help! By the way tps is good along with fuel pump.
 
No check light, check with a code reader and the tps came up but replaced that and still the same.But I don't know if it matters but is does not have any kind of chip i.e. dsmlink.
 
I have just encountered the same problem. My buddy and I pulled off my intake and cleaned the filter and now it has no power until 2500 rpms. You may want to check and make sure all of your lines are connected and nothing has popped off or is in the wrong location, as I plan to do the same once this storm passes.
 
Nothing i know of I just got this car and the guy I got it from did not seem to know what he was doing, I just started to dig into it a week ago. Could that be the problem? Just so I don't sound like an idoit this is my first car that is turbo I'm used to working on older cars like my 5.0
 
Does the car blow out alot of smoke when its under 2500 RPM? If you so you may be running really rich which is causing the car to run so poorly. You will need to buy something to log with and something to tune with so that you can control your fuel injectors correctly.
 
Thanks LOckett I will check all the lines to the intake to make sure they are hooked up correctly.

ryan11, thats what I was thinking it does smoke a bit. What would you suggest to use?
 
Well if you don't plan on going with bigger injectors/ bigger turbo, you would be fine just using a logger and SAFC to tune. If you do want to go bigger, (which most do after a while anyway.) you may want to think about DSMlink or any of the other standalone systems. If your on a tight budget I would say the logger and SAFC are the way to go.
 
Yep, if you don't have anything compensating for those 550's like a SAFC (Super Air Flow Converter), ECMlink (formerly DSMlink), EPROM chip (DSMchips.com sells these), or a 3" GM MAFT (3" GM Mass Air Flow w/Translator) then the ECU is telling the injector to fire as much as the stock injectors making you run really rich. What kind of MPG are you getting? If you do have something for injector compensation, you should look into getting a logger of some sort to monitor everything going through your ECU. Then use the info from that to dial it all in.

I would also perform a boost leak test. Any boost leaks will cause you to run crazy rich, during boost mostly. Out of boost, leaks turn into vac leaks and you'll run lean.

Then again, are you just not used to the car yet? Us turbo cars have what we call turbo lag... Coming from the insta-torque 5.0L I can see how you are used to having power from idle to redline. DSM's don't really start going anywhere til 2500-3000RPM depending on the size of turbo used.

Logger: digital tuning, inc.
SAFC: I would look in our classified section, red bar at the top of the page, click on "Marketplace", then "DSM Classifieds". There are always used ones going for cheap on there.
 
I can see the turbo lag but when you try to push the throttle it seems like its flooding its self and trying to die unless you feather it to get to 2500rpms

How do you go about doing a boost test? I have check all the connections but doing a test would not hurt.
 
Go to home depot and get a rubber plumbing coupler that will fit onto your turbo's inlet.
While you're there, pick up a pvc cap to go in the end.
Also, get a air tool hose fitting and some JB weld

Drill a hole in end of the cap and thread in your fitting with some JB weld to seal it all up.
Attach the cap to the end of the coupler with the supplied worm clamps.
So, you now have a coupler with a cap on the end of it with an air tool fitting sticking out.

Remove intake from turbo.
Attach coupler to the turbo's inlet (what the intake was attached to)
Attach the air fitting to an air hose connected to an air compressor. (Regulator set to 0psi)
Slowly raise the regulator level up to about 20-25 psi and listen for leaks as well as spraying the IC hoses down with soapy water and looking for bubbles.

Repeat until all leaks are found and fixed.

Remove boost leak tester and reinstall intake. :thumb:
 
Thats great, Thanks alot I will try that and get the logger and SAFC and see if that works for me. I will let you know how that works.

So I got a dsm chip and an apex safc2 for the car and it runs good the only thing I need to do is alittle more programing on the controller. Thanks you guys for all the helpful ideas.
 
Another thing I meant to mention to you earlier was to check your MAF sensor. Like I said, I had a similar issue after cleaning my air filter. Turns out my stupid ass never plugged the maf back in. If you are still having the same issue then that may be another thing to looking into.
 
The maf is plug in, it's not having the same problems now it is bogging down at 3000 to 3500 rpm I think it is just needing to be tuned with the safc but it is hard to tune in. There is alot of adjustments on it and I did some research on the forum to see how or get a good starting point but I could not find anything. And one more question, how do you tell if you got a Karman or flap, pressure senser? If you could help that would be great.
 
So I have tried to tune with the safc but it still does not run right, it does not even run withit set at karmen I have to put it on flap just for the car to start and run. It is definetly getting to much fuel, could it be timing or? I have worked on alot of cars but this one is kicking my ass.
 
Another thing it seems real tempermental sometimes it runs ok and sometimes it justhas a hard time maybe this info may help.
 
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