Looking for a STRONG Internal Wastegate Actuator?

[joyfil2001]

I'm really glad this has worked out.

Your Holset actuator was exactly the same strength as the prototype I built for my 18G using a HX40 actuator. Tuners member FonZ454 sent me one to build, but his was of considerably less spring strength...still stronger than an MHI actuator, but not as strong as the original prototype I built. His results weren't as good as yours.

Once I get my car completely straightened out, I will try to keep increasing the boost (until I knock) to see how this really holds up under higher boost. But I am really impressed at the strength of the Holset compared to the mitsu wastegate. It's night and day.

 

[JusMX141]

Definitely log your results on this thread!

I'll be doing the same, but my FWD still won't be on the road for a little while. A booming turbocharger repair season has put that project on hold yet again.

 

[e85_4g63]

Nice counter top Justin! PM sent...

 

[FonZ454]

I'm really glad yours has worked out.

Your Holset actuator was exactly the same strength as the prototype I built for my 18G using a HX40 actuator. Tuners member FonZ454 sent me one to build, but his was of considerably less spring strength...still stronger than an MHI actuator, but not as strong as the original prototype I built. His results weren't as good as yours but it did have about three times the actuator throw of the standard MHI unit, making it a GREAT actuator choice for someone having boost creep issues!

Yep, We tossed mine on a friend's lightly modded 1g, he was creeping to 20+psi up how, but now it's holding 15psi.

I'm not going to bother looking for a stronger holset actuator now though, I'll just use this external setup I've had.

Awesome to hear the stronger actuator working though. I could get mine to hold ~23ish psi up high, but I was still looking for more boost. That was after a 27psi spike.

 

[joyfil2001]

Yep, We tossed mine on a friend's lightly modded 1g, he was creeping to 20+psi up how, but now it's holding 15psi.

I'm not going to bother looking for a stronger holset actuator now though, I'll just use this external setup I've had.

Awesome to hear the stronger actuator working though. I could get mine to hold ~23ish psi up high, but I was still looking for more boost. That was after a 27psi spike.

I tried pulling mine open with my hands and it wouldn't budge. I did the same thing with the mitsu one and it was no problem to pull the arm out all the way. I'm really impressed with it. I hope this keeps me from ever having to go external.

 

[Auto RS T]

Well I finally have my "Jus Strong Internal" together. When I got my Holset acuator it had a welded adjustment. This made things a little more difficult to get together because I had to cut it apart. I ended up having to find a different threaded sleeve for adjustment and add threads to the Holset actuator arm. Adding the thread wasn't a big deal, but finding that sleeve was for some reason... I would estimate this actuator is roughly twice as strong as the Mitsu unit and looks very promising. I was told it is a 23 psi actuator from an HX35. There won't be any results for a couple of months at least though, the Talon is undergoing some renovations. But hey, it's done and for less than $30! Now I can get onto the next project. Here's the pictures.

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[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

Someone should market these things.

 

[AndrewD5418]

What if something like this is done to change the spring?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...cooler/97971-1g-bov-crushing-alternative.html

 

[JusMX141]

What if something like this is done to change the spring?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...cooler/97971-1g-bov-crushing-alternative.html

That would be the only other way to increase the holding strength effectively using the stock actuator, but the spring tension and actual boost level achieved would be a Craps shoot as there are no "upgraded" springs sold for MHI actuators. The other issue is the MHI actuator's short throw- the Holset actuator opens the flapper almost three times as far as a MHI actuator.

My method is simpler and much easier than cutting the can open and swapping springs on a MHI actuator.

 

[Mr Peepers]

I've noticed that, if anything, having a stronger WGA spring will stop it from spiking at higher than average boost levels. The "2x the spring pressure" rule has applied time and time again for me.

I had an extra WGA laying around and threw an extra t25 spring in it along with the stock 14b one. Spring pressure went up to about 16-17 psi instead of 9-10. I can set the boost at 21 psi without spiking to 23 as before, but still can't hold much more than 21 psi by redline, mostly because the compressor just can't keep up in the first place(evo3), although I still have some more messing around to do. I did get 23 psi near redline but that was still with a nasty spike that my fuel pump doesn't enjoy nearly as much as I do.

I have a feeling Fonz454 is having the same problem of just not enough turbo/airflow to maintain x psi at x rpm. A stronger spring/WGA works, but it you can't expect miracles on a turbo on the far edge of its map.

 

[JusMX141]

Fonz's actuator wasn't as stiff as the other Holset actuators I've used, which is what I'm sure is the major contributing factor to his dropping boost. He's having the same issue that many MHI actuator users are seeing when they go over double the actuator's operating spring tension.

Fil's the only user so far that has tried one of the super-strong Holset actuators, and his results are zero drops in boost levels once the flapper opens....and his turbo's using a 34mm flapper. Of course the 18G compressor isn't going to run out of airflow as quickly as the RPM's climb as the 14B/16G would.

 

[FonZ454]

Yep. But the same WGA on a friend's stock-er 16g car got rid of his creep. So it helps there. He was creeping to 20, now it's holding 15psi.

 

[Ravenous]

I tested my mitsu wastegate this morning and it has gone kaput. Luckily I have a HX-35 sitting in the garage with a perfectly good... albeit ugly wastegate. I am going to copy this, many kudos and thanks for figuring this out. I was busy pricing external units when I came across this.

 

[amg_dragon]

So how much do you get an hour? What do you think about using a Evo III GT arm? Hell the whole actuator is probably good but who'd want to use it? I'm interested in whether you have your prototype running yet as well.

 

[grantman10]

I am very interested in this route as well. I have an internally gated bolt-on GT30r that already manages to hold ~26-28 psi with the wastegate that came on it from slowboy. I am looking to get it to hold ~30 psi.

I will have to keep looking ebay to find a wastegate actuator...

 

[v8s_are_slow]

I think I'm gonna do this on my car (with the stock T-25 for now until I can get something larger) but this difference is, I don't wanna weld the rod. I wanna find this lil rod like this and just use a die on the ends to make the threads. If that's possible to use a regular die. Not sure if the threads are reversed on one side or if I can use the same die on both ends. Hmmmm....understand what I'm saying?

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[JusMX141]

I'm sure the threads are reversed so all you have to do is tighten the turnbuckle in the center and it shortens the rod.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Not sure if you follow what I'm saying. Are the threads reversed...example, right hand or left hand threads? Would it be left hand thread on one side and right hand threads on the other side?

 

[joyfil2001]

If anybody wants one of these, Boosted_Out bought mine from me that I got from Justin and he is parting out his car.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

PM me a price. I'm ready to buy one. Just waiting on the auction to end. I'll get it from him if it doesn't exceed the current auction price.

 

[amg_dragon]

Not sure if you follow what I'm saying. Are the threads reversed...example, right hand or left hand threads? Would it be left hand thread on one side and right hand threads on the other side?

Yes, on one side of the center adjustable link (that's a mouthful) you would have right hand threads and on the other side you'd have left hand threads. If you have problems finding the right dies for it or get frustrated you can always hybridize the two systems by welding one side and leaving the arm length adjustable with a very fine toothed thread and shimming the mounting bracket for you're desired length. A tip for shimming, find a cheap set of feeler gauges and drill through the entire set at the required bolt size and distance from each other if possible then cut to fit. You now have a set of shims running from redonkulously thin to over an inch in range.

 

[chanley talon]

You guys are killing me! Just go to the hardware store and buy a spring. Not one that you would put on the inside of the canister but the outside from canister to the waste gate flapper arm. The have all sorts of springs. You know like the springs that shut your screen door ect.. . I seen this done on a 2.2 turbo dodge and it works awesome. My goal is to get a waste gate spring setup to where i don't even need a boost controller i will let the waste gate do it all. It will speed spool because my mbc wont be bleeding air. It will be adjusted by just swapping external springs for a couple buck from the hardware store.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

That doesn't really sound like the best idea to me. I'm sure the turbo Dodge wasn't running insane amounts of boost, or wouldn't "think" so anyway. The way I see it, the exhaust is having to push the door open versus air pressure in a small vacuum line doing the job. Sounds like more of a pain in the ass cause to adjust boost, you have to change a spring and have to drive stop, change spring. Not the right one? Drive stop, change spring again until you get it right. Not to mention that it's gonna be hot as hell to touch. If you're routing your mbc as you should, you're not wasting ANY air that's made from the turbo. You're not suppose to be venting it to atmosphere.

I'll stick to the external wastegate with mbc. Thanks.

 

[chanley talon]

SO the little bleed hole on the mbc can be recirculated when boosting? Granted doing the external spring is not for the guy who needs to be changing boost levels alot. But if you want to max things out it is a quick and painless way if using pliers not your actual hands . By the way here is the turbo dodge and i would say from his time in the 8th mile he has to be running some serious boost.Shadow is on the right.
YouTube - 7.10 run at 104.83



Do you mind clarifying this?

If you're routing your mbc as you should, you're not wasting ANY air that's made from the turbo. You're not suppose to be venting it to atmosphere.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

What mbc are you using? Cause I've never used one that had a bleed hole. Don't see the purpose in needing one. Ya have a ball, spring, and something to increase the tension or decrease the tension on the spring to allow more or less air to the wastegate. I "personally" don't know or see the reason for needing a bleed hole. Even still, I'm not thinking it's gonna be much air that's lost regardless....depending on how big the hole is.

But as for the spring thing, I've never tried it so I won't bash it. Just doesn't sound like the greatest thing to use though. I'll let others try that one out. Lol.