List of issues that I need to get corrected.

[havlc2u]

Ok I am going on like the second month of my rebuild the engine currently has 30 miles on it. Here is a list of somethings that I have issues with that I need to get solved I have spent hours searching for answers coming up short handed.
I have a 6 bolt block with a 2G head. No Boost leaks no vac leaks that I know of the Vac at idle is about -23 to -18

1.) Car starts but I have to hold the throttle so it idles at like 1200 rpms
for about 3-4 mins before it will attempt to idle on it's own. If I don't idle it then it will jump to about 1000 rmps and then drop so low that it can't recover and dies.
I have checked the timing it is at about 7 degrees advanced. Checked with timing light the marks on the cam gears look to be correct. TPS has been adjusted many times also according to VFAQ

2.) Checking the plugs plug 1 and 4 look to be running lean while 2-3 are a little brownish in color. I just replaced the plugs and the new ones get the same result.
The O2 voltage ranges from .2 to 1.0 all the time the car is running

3.) There is smoke coming from both the exhaust and the jpipe.
This never happen before the rebuild process. The jpipe has a brownish tint to it where the exhaust smoke looks to be white/blueish tint.

4.) When driving I feel no boost currently. When I did notice the boost working the timing was set to 10 degrees advance according to logging software. This was for miles 5-17 which I adjusted the CAS because I thought the idle issue was because of the advanced timing.

5.) I have my electric fans wired to a switch which is ran off the ignition.
When I first start the car with the fans off I have the same idle issues when it first starts once it stays running on it's own. If I turn the fans on the idle becomes rough. I have a brand new battery and the alternator has been tested. When I check the voltage at the alternator it is at 13.6 if I turn on the fans it only drops to 13.2 but idles very rough with RPM's dropping to about 700 then bouncing back to 850.


Any help on these issues would be awesome. After dumping almost $6k into the car starting to think I would be better off without it.

 

[mebetter]

First thing I would check would be for a blown headgasket. The smoke coming from the exhaust and trouble building boost makes it appear to be so.

 

[Travisgsx96]

Could also be that your turbos blown. Would explain smoke along with not boosting. For idle issue check your iac and tps make sure both are good.

 

[havlc2u]

First thing I would check would be for a blown headgasket. The smoke coming from the exhaust and trouble building boost makes it appear to be so.

I had thought about this a compression check was ran it was 180 across the board. Leak down tested checked out ok also. I don't see signs of coolant in the oil.

Could also be that your turbos blown. Would explain smoke along with not boosting. For idle issue check your iac and tps make sure both are good.

My next step was going to be to check the IAC was just looking up info on that.

 

[Travisgsx96]

Iac is super simple just check connection between 1-2 3-4 5-6 all should read the same.

 

[mchustle]

Don't you need a way to lock the timing at 5* so you can adjust it? If you log timing it usually never reads 5* at idle because of all the factors like load electronics etc. also when you looked at the timing on the cams did you have an adjustable one set at 5*, or just a inductive one that blinks? You have to have an adjustable one to check it at the cams, but it is always better to use the bottom timing cover instead.

Like stated above iac is easy just check them in order with an ohm meter. Iirc they should all ohm around 30ish, but I haven't looked that up in awhile so you might want to double check that.

A Blt would also help to see if you have any vac leaks. It's amazing what vac leaks can cause .

 

[havlc2u]

Don't you need a way to lock the timing at 5* so you can adjust it? If you log timing it usually never reads 5* at idle because of all the factors like load electronics etc. also when you looked at the timing on the cams did you have an adjustable one set at 5*, or just a inductive one that blinks? You have to have an adjustable one to check it at the cams, but it is always better to use the bottom timing cover instead.

Like stated above iac is easy just check them in order with an ohm meter. Iirc they should all ohm around 30ish, but I haven't looked that up in awhile so you might want to double check that.

A Blt would also help to see if you have any vac leaks. It's amazing what vac leaks can cause .

Well with the timing it is just the light. what I did though is get #1 at top dead center and then then the lower one and it shows it is at like 7 degrees then I used the light on the top to make sure my marks where correct and they where. I will have to see about getting a adjustable light and see what I can come up with.
I am going to do another boost leak test tonight and see what happens.

 

[mchustle]

So you checked the timing with a light with the engine off?

 

[mchustle]

If you used just a regular timing light at the cams and the marks lined up when it blinked while the car was running the timing is off. You also know that the Cas adjusts ignition timing and not mechanical timing right? Therefore if lining everything up with the engine off and looking where the mark is will tell you nothing.

 

[havlc2u]

If you used just a regular timing light at the cams and the marks lined up when it blinked while the car was running the timing is off. You also know that the Cas adjusts ignition timing and not mechanical timing right? Therefore if lining everything up with the engine off and looking where the mark is will tell you nothing.

Ok maybe I am confused then on the timing. I know about the CAS.
So if I use a normal timing light while the engine is running on the CAMS and the marks line up at 3 and 9 oclock that means the timing is incorrect? Also when I set the timing I lined up the mark on the bottom with the CAMS at the 3 and 9 oclock position and then got the belt on did the whole turn it over 6 times and everything was still aligned. I think I need to got back to VFAQ and check out the timing section again.

 

[mchustle]

Ok of the marks are lining up with the engine off you MECHANICAL timing is correct. Good job on that one it's never fun.

Now with the engine running and you point the light at the cams and they line up at 3 and 9 when it lights up it is INCORRECT.

 

[mchustle]

Here is a good link I used. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-timing-without-using-lower-timing-cover.html

I have no idea on how to lock the timing on a 99 without dsmlink. As far as I know 95 is the only 2g that has the timing connector to ground. There is a really really expensive tool that will do it but I can't remember what it's called. Another reason dsmlink is a life saver .

 

[Mullet_GST]

Ok maybe I am confused then on the timing. I know about the CAS.
So if I use a normal timing light while the engine is running on the CAMS and the marks line up at 3 and 9 oclock that means the timing is incorrect? Also when I set the timing I lined up the mark on the bottom with the CAMS at the 3 and 9 oclock position and then got the belt on did the whole turn it over 6 times and everything was still aligned. I think I need to got back to VFAQ and check out the timing section again.

Correct me if i'm wrong but if the cams are at 3 and 9 o'clock, wouldn't one cam be 180* out?

 

[mchustle]

Correct me if i'm wrong but if the cams are at 3 and 9 o'clock, wouldn't one cam be 180* out?

You are wrong so I will correct you . With the dowel pins straight up the timing mark on the intake is at 3 o'clock and the timing mark on the exhaust cam is at 9 o'clock. Which makes them line up straight together in the middle with the timing marks of both cams and the head.

 

[Mullet_GST]

You are wrong so I will correct you . With the dowel pins straight up the timing mark on the intake is at 3 o'clock and the timing mark on the exhaust cam is at 9 o'clock. Which makes them line up straight together in the middle with the timing marks of both cams and the head.

Haha, Im thinking old school mechanics i guess, Like a small block chevy with the timing chain. xD

 

[havlc2u]

Ok of the marks are lining up with the engine off you MECHANICAL timing is correct. Good job on that one it's never fun.

Now with the engine running and you point the light at the cams and they line up at 3 and 9 when it lights up it is INCORRECT.

Yeah it took forever to get the Mechanical timing correct.
So can the timing be part of the whole issue I have with the start
and everything?

 

[mchustle]

Yeah it took forever to get the Mechanical timing correct.
So can the timing be part of the whole issue I have with the start
and everything?

Yes if the ign timing is off I can effect start up, idle, and power loss. I can't guarantee it's you problem, but I would deff say it's possible. Between mt timing being off a little and my afpr bleeding off pressure I would always have to give it has to start it, after fixing timing don't really have to anymore except for here and there because of the afpr. Before I knew what I was somewhat doing I just turned the Cas to adjust my idle and when I drove it the timing was so retarded it had now power. Once I figured out the correct way and did it right knowing what was going on inside the ecu, iac, etc it worked fine perfect idle and power. And I also use the cams to set my timing with an adjustable timing light since I'm an idiot that doesn't run covers. Like I said the number one problem is finding a way to lock the timing to adjust it without dsmlink and I don't even know if that is possible.

 

[havlc2u]

Yes if the ign timing is off I can effect start up, idle, and power loss. I can't guarantee it's you problem, but I would deff say it's possible. Between mt timing being off a little and my afpr bleeding off pressure I would always have to give it has to start it, after fixing timing don't really have to anymore except for here and there because of the afpr. Before I knew what I was somewhat doing I just turned the Cas to adjust my idle and when I drove it the timing was so retarded it had now power. Once I figured out the correct way and did it right knowing what was going on inside the ecu, iac, etc it worked fine perfect idle and power. And I also use the cams to set my timing with an adjustable timing light since I'm an idiot that doesn't run covers. Like I said the number one problem is finding a way to lock the timing to adjust it without dsmlink and I don't even know if that is possible.

Well thanks for all the info you have been great. I will see if I can find info on locking the timing and go from there I guess I have no Link yet. Put to much into the car itself to go buy it right now.

 

[mchustle]

Yeah it took forever to get the Mechanical timing correct.
So can the timing be part of the whole issue I have with the start
and everything?

Well thanks for all the info you have been great. I will see if I can find info on locking the timing and go from there I guess I have no Link yet. Put to much into the car itself to go buy it right now.

Not a problem at all. I'm not an expert by any means I just try to help when I can, and that is usually either because I've had similar problems or because of the countless hours on hours I've read around on this site. I would have next to no Dsm knowledge if it wasn't for the great info on this site from all the wiseman, mods, and great members this community has. So anytime I can help I always will just to give back to the community that has given me so much.