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ECMlink LinkV3: BoostEst and boost gauge not equal {attached log}

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Now that I think about it, here's something else worth mentioning about open-loop calibration...

The guys over at ECMLink wrote some fairly complex algorithms for the closed-loop MAFComp and VE adjust tools to determine what is good data and what isn't. When using the WBError in open loop to do it manually, you have to decide for yourself what is valid data and what isn't.

During open loop at WOT, it's easy; throttle is 100%, while RPM and load is increasing at a nice linear rate. So other than that first little section when things are settling down, the entire pull is good stable data.

While cruising in open loop though, that isn't the case. You are constantly varying the throttle and RPM, and engine load changes with hills, wind, etc. (Not to mention the desired AFR is a moving target instead of 14.7:1, unless you set large areas of the DA table to the same AFR value). So you have to hold conditions stable at different points to get good steady-state data to use, or look for sections in the log where those conditions are met.

The best way to go about that I've found is to find a flat stretch of road and hold the throttle and RPM at a set point (say 3000rpms) for 10-15 secs, while making sure LoadFactor doesn't vary too much. Then highlight the middle 3/4 of that section or so, average it, and adjust airflow based on that. If you can do this safely in different gears and at different speeds/load/RPMs, you can cover quite a bit of the operating range and get pretty solid numbers to work with.

If you are really anal you can try holding MAFRaw at a specific value that corresponds to a slider. For the VE guys, you can try holding things at a point that corresponds to a specific RPM/MAP cell in the VE table.

Tip: Long, steady hills are great for getting to higher airflow/load points at lower RPMS and safe speeds. If you have aftermarket brakes and know what you are doing, you can also carefully drag the brake pedal for short periods of time to increase load...but I didn't tell you that. :D
 
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Hey Calan, I just wanted you to know I haven't forgot about this thread. I left for the Air Force in January so needless to say its been a bit since I've been remotely close to a DSM. The gsx definitely has some work cut out for it as far as the tune goes. I look forward to continuing this journey into further my knowledge of dialing in and tuning my car when I can.
 
Alrighty, I just got a professional tune on the car a few weeks ago. I got the car tuned out just fine. Ended up making 310 on about 23-24psi. The car was having a studder problem that I thought was the plugs. We put the plugs in and continued the tuning and successfully got it tuned, and the last pull that we did it started doing it again. Couldn't really come up with a conclusion. Sent the ecu to DSMlink and they said it checks out, but apparently the tune on the car is something they haven't seen before. The first slider on the MAFcomp slider is maxed out and that is what I had it at in order to get it running. I don't know why it has to be this way. I was under the impression that because I have a breathe filter on the valve cover it would explain why there is such a jump in the slider, apparently that's wrong. Does anybody have any insight as to why this would be doing this or why the tune has to be like so in order for it to even run?
 
Alrighty, I just got a professional tune on the car a few weeks ago. I got the car tuned out just fine. Ended up making 310 on about 23-24psi. The car was having a studder problem that I thought was the plugs. We put the plugs in and continued the tuning and successfully got it tuned, and the last pull that we did it started doing it again. Couldn't really come up with a conclusion. Sent the ecu to DSMlink and they said it checks out, but apparently the tune on the car is something they haven't seen before. The first slider on the MAFcomp slider is maxed out and that is what I had it at in order to get it running. I don't know why it has to be this way. I was under the impression that because I have a breathe filter on the valve cover it would explain why there is such a jump in the slider, apparently that's wrong. Does anybody have any insight as to why this would be doing this or why the tune has to be like so in order for it to even run?

I would get this fixed by going catch can or routing back into the intake then re tune for closed loop and see if it makes a difference.
 
Well among that problem, the shop that has the car now is experiencing another. The car is not wanting to start for some reason. They are saying it doesn't have any fuel pressure. I have had this problem before but it eventually ended up correcting itself and started.

The ECU made it back from ECMlink. From what they are saying the ECU checks out and there are no problems with it other than that MAFComp being way unlike they have ever seen before. I am wondering what kind of underlying problems I may be having going on here.
 
Basics. Engine is an air pump so you need air, fuel and spark to get things going. Simple? Get your laptop and verify you have an air signal while cranking. Second. Verify the presence of spark and fuel. Go rent a fuel pressure gauge if you don't have one and verify your bfp @ the fuel rail is @ spec. If you have no fuel....verify operation of fuel pump and/or it's relay. Spark during cranking is easy to check. If you are missing BOTH spark and fuel....look @ the MPI circuit. Verify that fuse on the positive battery terminal is good and the ECU is actuating the corresponding relay. You should hear it click a few seconds have you turn the key OFF. Verify CAS signal.

Also if you have an intermittent starting issue that "fixes" itself, experience tells me you have a bad connection somewhere. Use butt connectors to wire any relays? Any recent wiring to ECU? These cars shake and rattle and its not uncommon for a poor electrical connection to knock itself loose....just saying.
 
This was all great information that you put out there. I appreciate the input. I wish it was as easy as me doing all that stuff. Kinda hard when the Air Force tells you where you're gonna be at for an amount of time. The car is back home which happens to be 1600 miles away at the place I got it tuned at. I figured there was no since in taking it from there if it needed diagnosed.
 
Got an update on the car today. Fuel pump isn't working. Has good power and ground but not doing anything. Maybe this is why it's cutting out and not starting.
 
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