lifer tick or spun a rod?

[Big Woo]

I would say he means the valve cover.

 

[pnishr]

Rocker cover? please explain where that is located, dont think I have heard of that. Yes, I am new to building or tearing engines apart. I know there are rockers that sit on the lifters, but haven't head of a rocker cover. Thanks!

Yeah, it's the "valve cover" the rockers are what's really visible, so that's why people call it that, since the valves are clearly down into the head..

so, anybody else have any ideas of what it could be... I have a similar problem.. not as loud, not as consistent... I have NO balance shafts, and the bearings are NEW (as in, the engine has only run for 5ish minutes... So even if the bearing spun, there wouldn't be enough room for movement to be making such a loud noise (I spun a bearing recently and that's why it was apart- and it wasn't as loud as it is now when it WAS a spun bearing)

Sorry, not meaning to hijack, just want as much input as possible, since he and I have similar problems.

 

[Midnightride]

What does pulling the valve cover do for me? Its been off multiple times since the car has been sitting there. I made sure everything was in its place and tight.

Is he saying I would be able to tell if its the rear balace shaft by pulling the valve cover off?

Please explain by what you were trying to say.

Thanks!

 

[pnishr]

I believe he was referring back to the broken rocker scenario again. You won't be able to check the BS via the head.

 

[Midnightride]

I believe he was referring back to the broken rocker scenario again. You won't be able to check the BS via the head.

I will check the rockers, anything certain I should look at on the rocker? When I took them all off this past week, I didn't notice anything unusual about them.

 

[BUCK]

Midnight the answer to your last question has already been previously Posted in this Thread:

Another possibility would be a broken rocker.

I have seen this a few times on DSM's, where the needle bearings within the rocker roller fail. This causes the roller (the part that actually contacts the cam) to drop (so to speak) slightly in reference to the cam lobe. essentially once the needle bearings fail it drops and starts riding on the pin portion of the rocker. This can be difficult to stop if one does not look very closely. In extreme cases the two ribs of the rocker (either side of the roller) will start contacting the cam lobe. This in effect is like a lathe with a very dull bit, and will eventually machine the lobe narrower.

Ballance shaft bearing is another possibility, but you said the oil pressure was good. The rear one is also a common problem.

 

[phreak965]

hey, great idea w/ the video thing, i tried it myself. just wondering if anyone wouldn't mind listening to mine too. mine is a little different sounding but it's semi-loud. my phone was right up to it and i'm just trying to be more safe than sorry ;o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9UkkkT_xEY

 

[JWoodley]

This sounds more like a rod to me:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIVoPRYhXrg&mode=related&search=

Your "problem" sounds like the good ole lifter tick.

 

[phreak965]

ok thanks alot, i'll try the fixes for it now. i appreciate it

 

[JWoodley]

After I've thought about it a little more, it could a valve sticking a bit. Try some type of combustion chamber cleaner and see how that goes.

 

[phreak965]

like the quart of atf+4 trick (run it for 30mins then change your oil)? or actual combustion chamber cleaner?

 

[JWoodley]

The ATF+4 works. I've done it a few times on my DSMs. I think I may have posted a reply on your youtube video with the ATF+4 trick, . Do a google search for "seafoam".

 

[phreak965]

just figured i'd post the link to the clip after i ran the seafoam. you can still hear a little tick, but definitally hear the difference. also when i rev it it doesn't get alot louder like it did before the seafoam. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AS4deu3jabQ
edit: i love this stuff

 

[Midnightride]

update, I drained the oil before removing the engine. I had some small pieces of metal in the the new drain pan. When I removed the oil pan from the block I noticed a metal residue in the oil. We know what that means.

Everyone that replied pretty much was right.

MODS--- if you would like you could use the vidio clip and make it sticky for those that want to find out the difference between lifter tick and not.

If I decide to take the old motor completly apart I'll post pics of the damage done.

ps: I know it wasn't lifter tick cause I replaced them with new 3G ones (revised ones). Still made the sound.

 

[phreak965]

i feel for you, hope you can find a good engine cheap

 

[TSIMonsteR]

MAn, I am depressed now. I think I have the same problem. Time to start the diagnosis.

 

[Midnightride]

yea I found the bottom end locally with new bearing installed and the BS were eliminated. I got a 97 head and switched everythying over. Installed ARP head studs, new OEM headgasket. new intake/exhaust manifold gaskets. Painted the head,motor and tranny. Cleaned the intake manifold up a bit. Everything looks 10x better. As soon as I can get the torque converter bolted up the motor/tranny will go back. Should all be going in this weekend. Hopefully she will be puring soon.

I also used window weld on all the engine mounts, painted them too. I will post pics when eveything is done. I took pics along the process.

 

[Talonracn50]

so was it the balance shaft or a rod?

 

[Midnightride]

I have yet to tear the old engine apart, but my money is on the rod.

Here is a question, if I was running to lean, would that cause a spun bearing? It started to do this on a dyno while getting tuned. You could hear the noice in the higher rpms but went away at lower rpms. Next day noice got really loud. I believe it had something to do with the tune. Or it was just a coincidence. Paid to have it tuned, and when he was tuning it It had a loud knocking/ticking noice at WOT at higher rpms. He continued and then finally when I was back there under hood trying to figure out why it was only runnning 15psi vs the 19psi I had it set before coming to the shop he said thats not normal we should stop since its making that noice and I dont want to hurt it. He was tuning the car strictly of the rear snuffer. No wideband, he just hooked up a sniffer on the muffler. My guess is maybe the reading were off since I have a high flow cat. Not sure on that but I think either the setting he had or how he was doing it caused the damage. On the way home and the next morning when accelerating, it took forever (automatic). Never had that issue before the tune. My guess its was pulling a lot of timing.