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Chumpaumpalumpa

Proven Member
1,554
304
Jun 16, 2014
La Habra, California
Hello everyone!!
First I'd like to say I'm a newbie to the world of DSM but I have some experience modding other cars. Currently I'm looking to built a 6 bolt 1992 talon tsi AWD to around 400whp on CA pump gas..... But before you all get on me about how this has been posted 157,000 times already I'd just like to run these specifics past the dsm wisemen, or anyone with some experience for that matter. This car is my daily and I'd like to be able to keep it fairly streetable So with that being said, the mods I'm looking at so far are as follows:
20g turbo (21-24 psi)
Walbro 255 pump w/ 770cc injectors
Fp2 cams
Kevlar timing belt
TRE built trans
Port & Polish stock heads
DSMlink v3 lite w/EPROM
ACT 2600 pressure plate
K&N intake
3" exhaust
Some other suspension & brake stuff
But for the engine, what mods am I forgetting that are important.... Any thoughts regarding pistons rods or other supporting mods? Thanks everyone in advance for support. P.S. Don't be afraid to be to hard on me it's a learning experience n u guys have more than me so please tell me honestly what I need or replace what parts with stronger/different parts or whatever and what rpm should I limit it to as I would like to keep the balancing shafts in..... I was thinking around 8000 rpm what do you guys think..... Fire away!!!:D
 
Last edited:
Awesome guys thanks for all the input
I would definitely go with the act street disk. A 2600 + street disk will easily hold 400hp (and relative torque) and it will provide smooth engagement for street use...ask me how I know :sneaky:

I'm guessing your clutch is slipping which is why you're asking, but what disk are you currently running?
no It's not I just want to have the least amount of issues by doing all my research up front but that's good to know that sounds like what I want, but it's stock, as is most everything right now...... As far as the turbo, how do I contact Justin and what does he usually charge.... And how is his rebuild comparable to a new 20g td06h which is the one I was looking at getting..... Srry for the constant questions but I'm a newbie to DSM and forced induction n I know I have a LOT to learn!! Thanks

-Chumpaumpalumpa
 
So what do you guys think of these for running 400whp and what pressure can I run on stock internals(I can change them if I REALLY have to) but which of these sounds best for my 400whp goal??

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...de=FP&Product_Code=49178-04600&Category_Code=

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...de=FP&Product_Code=49179-04100&Category_Code=
This one seems kinda pricey^

http://www.psiconcepts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=20

http://www.turbosystem.com/auto/Super 20G Universal.htm

Any other ones you guys can suggest??
 
So what do you guys think of these for running 400whp and what pressure can I run on stock internals(I can change them if I REALLY have to) but which of these sounds best for my 400whp goal??

Of all of these, I would suggest forced performance. They are HIGHLY reputable within our communty. However, notice it's offered in a t3 flange...you'll need a t3 flanged exhaust manifold to match it, because the stock manifold is...take a wild guess...mitsubishi flanged. This is where things can potentially become pricey, especially if you need to fab up the the o2 housing, downpipe, and exhaust system...remember how I said to use that port & polish money on the exhaust manifold/o2 housing fab setup? This is why.

The other option, as others have stated, is to buy a used turbo from our classifieds section and, depending on condition, have it rebuilt. Contact JusMX141 (Justin) for a rebuild.

Either way, you'll need to research and determine how you're going to mount the turbo up to the exhaust manifold and how the o2 housing and downpipe will be mounted. In some cases, things will mount up in the stock configuration. For example, my setup is pretty much bolt on, even though it's an hx40 :hellyeah: (I did my research)
 
Wow that's awesome..... So should I stick with the 20g or look at something else? Looking to spend $600-$1100 range preferable not the high end if possible but I can make sacrifices but I think it's a good Idea to get good supporting mods n not just slap a big turbo on and call it a day as other newbies sometimes do
 
Excuse my ignorance but what do you mean rewire the pump?
A re-wire kit is sold to keep the pump running at its full capacity at high rpms, I myself may be experiencing some problems with out rewiring my 255 so I need to get on that. You basically run a large guage wire from the positive terminal of the battery back to the pump area and use a relay to power it that is turned on by the stock pump positive wire. Also I noticed that you didn't have a WideBand controller (alot use Innovate or AEM) or a boost gauge on your list which I think are necessities. Just stuff I noticed. Prepairing like you are is a good idea so you have a goal and don't just blow money.
 
A re-wire kit is sold to keep the pump running at its full capacity at high rpms, I myself may be experiencing some problems with out rewiring my 255 so I need to get on that. You basically run a large guage wire from the positive terminal of the battery back to the pump area and use a relay to power it that is turned on by the stock pump positive wire. Also I noticed that you didn't have a WideBand controller (alot use Innovate or AEM) or a boost gauge on your list which I think are necessities. Just stuff I noticed. Prepairing like you are is a good idea so you have a goal and don't just blow money.
Yup thanks I'll add a manual boost controller and an FPR to the list, but rewiring the pump sounds simple enough....... But do I still need a wideband controller since Ill be running DSMlink...... And for the DSMlink should I just suck it up n pay the extra money for the full v3 or stick with the lite version??
 
I would get the full blown version for the future. Its what I have. If you are good with electronics, just get a 30 amp relay and run your own wire. The factory pump wiring is very small. OR...buy a subwoofer amp install kit, I think it has the same stuff in it, wire, relay, etc. They are also sold by some of our supporting vendors here. :thumb: The wideband contoller is used by Link to tell the ECU what your A/F's are so I deem it very important, and you would want to always kinda keep an eye on it, especially under boost to be sure that you aren't running to lean and risk the life of the engine. A manual boost control is optional but I have that also so I can run around on lower boost and turn it up when I want (mine is in my cabin, but some don't like them there. I haven't had a problem with it though) to "boost on the go" and not have to get out and under the hood to adjust. A FPR is a must with the bigger pump, it will keep the pressure constant and they are easy to install. These are all opinions but they are working for me.
 
I would get the full blown version for the future. Its what I have. If you are good with electronics, just get a 30 amp relay and run your own wire. The factory pump wiring is very small. OR...buy a subwoofer amp install kit, I think it has the same stuff in it, wire, relay, etc. They are also sold by some of our supporting vendors here. :thumb: The wideband contoller is used by Link to tell the ECU what your A/F's are so I deem it very important, and you would want to always kinda keep an eye on it, especially under boost to be sure that you aren't running to lean and risk the life of the engine. A manual boost control is optional but I have that also so I can run around on lower boost and turn it up when I want (mine is in my cabin, but some don't like them there. I haven't had a problem with it though) to "boost on the go" and not have to get out and under the hood to adjust. A FPR is a must with the bigger pump, it will keep the pressure constant and they are easy to install. These are all opinions but they are working for me.
Many people share those opinions so I'm sure they're true...... Where does the wideband controller go and where can I purchase one?
 
Look at our vendors at the bottom of the page or google it and one of our vendors (plus EBAY) will come up. The LC-1 is being phased out and replaced with the LC-2 model. I ordered an LC-1 and received an LC-2 in its place for the same price. The contoller will mount under your dash somewere and the sensor goes in the downpipe or in the stock O2 sensor location, like I have mine. The kit will also come with a guage so you can monitor your A/F ratio's. It is kind of a replacement for your O2 sensor. Here is one vendor and one that I trust -
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/innovate_db_gauges.htm
 
Look at our vendors at the bottom of the page or google it and one of our vendors (plus EBAY) will come up. The LC-1 is being phased out and replaced with the LC-2 model. I ordered an LC-1 and received an LC-2 in its place for the same price. The contoller will mount under your dash somewere and the sensor goes in the downpipe or in the stock O2 sensor location, like I have mine. The kit will also come with a guage so you can monitor your A/F ratio's. It is kind of a replacement for your O2 sensor. Here is one vendor and one that I trust -
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/innovate_db_gauges.htm
Is this absolutely necessary right now though or can it wait... I'd like that money to go towards DSMlink or something else unless it is absolutely CRUCIAL to have that on there.
 
Is this absolutely necessary right now though or can it wait... I'd like that money to go towards DSMlink or something else unless it is absolutely CRUCIAL to have that on there.
When you get LINK you will want it since LINK looks at it for O2 content which you will use to tune your A/F ratio with(timing, idle speed and just about everything else is programmable with LINK). Looking for 14.7 or so at idle and cruising but richer under WOT, around 10.8-11.2.
 
When you get LINK you will want it since LINK looks at it for O2 content which you will use to tune your A/F ratio with(timing, idle speed and just about everything else is programmable with LINK). Looking for 14.7 or so at idle and cruising but richer under WOT, around 10.8-11.2.
Alright I think I get it.... It's just useful for tuning it is what your saying it makes it easier?
 
Yes, almost invaluable. As you or your tuner try to squeek out every last HP out of your car you will need it as link can only estimate without it. I am not wanting to say this but my LC-2 came from Ebay and it works great and was considerably cheaper, but I like supporting the vendors on here so I reference them. STM is a great place to do business, they won't let you down is why I listed them. I have probably 20 padded bags of this that and another just from them. Just about anything you need, they have or can get. There are other vendors on here that are great also, I just have done plenty of business with Brian at STM. :thumb: That said, I have probably done business with 90% of our vendors at some time. If we don't do business with them, they will go out of business is my moto.
 
Yes, almost invaluable. As you or your tuner try to squeek out every last HP out of your car you will need it as link can only estimate without it. I am not wanting to say this but my LC-2 came from Ebay and it works great and was considerably cheaper, but I like supporting the vendors on here so I reference them. STM is a great place to do business, they won't let you down is why I listed them. I have probably 20 padded bags of this that and another just from them. Just about anything you need, they have or can get. There are other vendors on here that are great also, I just have done plenty of business with Brian at STM. :thumb: That said, I have probably done business with 90% of our vendors at some time. If we don't do business with them, they will go out of business is my moto.
Lol I like that...... I'll definitely consider it then when tuning time comes but right now I want to find out what turbo will work best so I can get all the appropriate supporting mods and get them put on so I can slap the turbo on after then start tuning.... That's the plan anyways... Sometimes things don't always work out so nicely
 
I am running a 20g and my son (black97spyder) is running a HX40. Lots more turbo but needs more supporting mods to use it to its capacity. I have 1120 FIC injectors and I believe he is running 2150's but he is planning on running E85 at some point which in itself makes more HP for our cars.I am still new to DSM platforms too but an old hand at building 500+ HP SBC's. :)
 
I am running a 20g and my son (black97spyder) is running a HX40. Lots more turbo but needs more supporting mods to use it to its capacity. I have 1120 FIC injectors and I believe he is running 2150's but he is planning on running E85 at some point which in itself makes more HP for our cars.I am still new to DSM platforms too but an old hand at building 500+ HP SBC's. :)
Sounds fun LOL how much power are you each making at the wheels?
 
I'm still tuning and I will be happy and surprised if I could get over 350. That would tickle me. He hasn't dyno'd but is guessing/bench racing about 600ish with water/meth injection and on E85 but he has cams, mine are stock, more compression, mine is 7.8-1 and numerous other heavy mods that I don't have. Both are fun but dam his is quick. On a different motor, turbo and just on motor last year ran 12.81 in street trim. I'd be happy with a 13.99 LOL.
 
I'm still tuning and I will be happy and surprised if I could get over 350. That would tickle me. He hasn't dyno'd but is guessing/bench racing about 600ish with water/meth injection and on E85 but he has cams, mine are stock, more compression, mine is 7.8-1 and numerous other heavy mods that I don't have. Both are fun but dam his is quick. On a different motor, turbo and just on motor last year ran 12.81 in street trim. I'd be happy with a 13.99 LOL.
I've heard several 20g running 400whp n that's my goal hopefully run high 11s low 12s..... Lots of supporting mods though
 
That's my goal too but I'm setting the bar low so I won't be disappointed. I think I can get there as I have plenty of supporting mods also but am just being conservative. Maybe if I drop this in......
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or maybe a set of cams will do, LOL.
 

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I've heard several 20g running 400whp n that's my goal hopefully run high 11s low 12s..... Lots of supporting mods though
Yeah, did you check what fuel they were running as a supporting mod? Or maybe they bolted on an extra .3L displacement. Are you sure they were AWD and/or full weight? Are you talking DynoJet or Mustang Dyno?

400AWHP on a mustang dyno, 2.0L tdo5h 20g 91oct and 11 seconds in full weight street tires is an amazing feat. 400hp and 11 sec in a 2.3L FWD gutted/tubed, tdo6h 20g on races gas I would say is mediocre (I wouldn't have the proper reference points to make this comparison, but you get the idea).

Case in point, just because someone made a 14b go 10 seconds in the quarter, doesn't mean you will by tuning your 14b up.

Be a little more realistic and see what happens. Even if you end up with 350AWHP (which I have come to find as a respectable end on 20g turbos) and a mid/upper 12 second car, You still have a pretty mean street machine that travels faster than a fart. Not just anyone will be able to pull on you like when you have the 14b.
 
Yeah, did you check what fuel they were running as a supporting mod? Or maybe they bolted on an extra .3L displacement. Are you sure they were AWD and/or full weight? Are you talking DynoJet or Mustang Dyno?

400AWHP on a mustang dyno, 2.0L tdo5h 20g 91oct and 11 seconds in full weight street tires is an amazing feat. 400hp and 11 sec in a 2.3L FWD gutted/tubed, tdo6h 20g on races gas I would say is mediocre (I wouldn't have the proper reference points to make this comparison, but you get the idea).

Case in point, just because someone made a 14b go 10 seconds in the quarter, doesn't mean you will by tuning your 14b up.

Be a little more realistic and see what happens. Even if you end up with 350AWHP (which I have come to find as a respectable end on 20g turbos) and a mid/upper 12 second car, You still have a pretty mean street machine that travels faster than a fart. Not just anyone will be able to pull on you like when you have the 14b.
Yeah, did you check what fuel they were running as a supporting mod? Or maybe they bolted on an extra .3L displacement. Are you sure they were AWD and/or full weight? Are you talking DynoJet or Mustang Dyno?

400AWHP on a mustang dyno, 2.0L tdo5h 20g 91oct and 11 seconds in full weight street tires is an amazing feat. 400hp and 11 sec in a 2.3L FWD gutted/tubed, tdo6h 20g on races gas I would say is mediocre (I wouldn't have the proper reference points to make this comparison, but you get the idea).

Case in point, just because someone made a 14b go 10 seconds in the quarter, doesn't mean you will by tuning your 14b up.

Be a little more realistic and see what happens. Even if you end up with 350AWHP (which I have come to find as a respectable end on 20g turbos) and a mid/upper 12 second car, You still have a pretty mean street machine that travels faster than a fart. Not just anyone will be able to pull on you like when you have the 14b.
A lot of people claim to have done it with fp2 cams and I'd LIKE to have 400whp because I'm already used to 440rwhp in my fathers vette I've been driving...... I'd like to start around 270whp straight away n by the end of the year have 400whp after I put on whatever turbo I end up getting
 
My goal is to only have it on the dyno one time twice at the most if I can so I'll probably get all supporting mods together, throw em on maybe tune, get a turbo to slap on and pay for a good tune... This seems more logical to me but I'm new to DSM soooooo....
 
That's my goal too but I'm setting the bar low so I won't be disappointed. I think I can get there as I have plenty of supporting mods also but am just being conservative. Maybe if I drop this in......
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or maybe a set of cams will do, LOL.
hahahahahaha take out the back seats stuff it in n your running 9s all day LOL
 
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