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Chumpaumpalumpa

Proven Member
1,554
304
Jun 16, 2014
La Habra, California
Hello everyone!!
First I'd like to say I'm a newbie to the world of DSM but I have some experience modding other cars. Currently I'm looking to built a 6 bolt 1992 talon tsi AWD to around 400whp on CA pump gas..... But before you all get on me about how this has been posted 157,000 times already I'd just like to run these specifics past the dsm wisemen, or anyone with some experience for that matter. This car is my daily and I'd like to be able to keep it fairly streetable So with that being said, the mods I'm looking at so far are as follows:
20g turbo (21-24 psi)
Walbro 255 pump w/ 770cc injectors
Fp2 cams
Kevlar timing belt
TRE built trans
Port & Polish stock heads
DSMlink v3 lite w/EPROM
ACT 2600 pressure plate
K&N intake
3" exhaust
Some other suspension & brake stuff
But for the engine, what mods am I forgetting that are important.... Any thoughts regarding pistons rods or other supporting mods? Thanks everyone in advance for support. P.S. Don't be afraid to be to hard on me it's a learning experience n u guys have more than me so please tell me honestly what I need or replace what parts with stronger/different parts or whatever and what rpm should I limit it to as I would like to keep the balancing shafts in..... I was thinking around 8000 rpm what do you guys think..... Fire away!!!:D
 
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I would go a little bigger on the injectors, in case you choose to go down the e85 route (there's an e85 station in Fullerton).

I don't believe cams are necessary especially if you're running the stock intake manifold and throttle body. Stock cams will help with "streetability" as well, but If you're dead set on it, then you should at least consider picking up some stiffer valve springs. I also wouldn't "port & polish" the head (singular).

Instead use this money for an intercooler and exhaust/wategate/o2 housing fab.

I would also remove the rear balance shaft. Not sure if you know this but you can remove just the rear shaft, leaving the front one in. This makes the job fairly simple...look into it if you're planning on changing the timing belt.

Some other things I would do: get some motor mounts, a stainless clutch line and remove the useless clutch fluid resevoior thing between the master and slave cylinder.

Oh and rewire that fuel pump...
 
Alright so so injectors up to 1000cc??? Also how much power would this setup make....... Thanks for the tip for the e85 shop I'll definitely check that out!! Anyone know of any good tuners local-ish to la Habra or brea or Fullerton?? Also what intake manifold and throttle body would you recommend and what all is involved with running e85 and how hard is it to change between that n gasoline if I don't have e85 available for some reason
 
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If your worried about switching from e85 to pump, I would recommend getting V3 full as going speed density with the new flex fuel sensor. With ECMLink just get some 1250's as you will have room to grow if needed. Honestly the stock intake manifold and stock TB would be fine for 400 AWHP. Just get a FMIC setup with that money. Those cams are a good choice but just be sure to upgrade the springs and retainers to something like the Manley single springs. P&P is not really needed just save your money there. Rewire your fuel pump and get a fuel pressure regulator. As for internals on the block, stock can hold that power level but wouldn't hurt to do some upgrades if you have spare $ laying around. Some H beams with weisco pistons will handle that easily. But remember with the block, if you upgrade you have to consider machine costs which are expensive, bearings and assembly if your not familiar with assembling engines.
 
1000cc injectors will safely support around 450hp on e85. I forgot to mention that you really should get a wideband as well. Innovate is pretty much the gold standard with Link.

The stock intake mani and throttle body will get you to 400hp. I recommend reaching that goal first and if you still want more, then look into cams+springs/intake mani/throttle body.

For tuning, there's Road Race Engineering in Santa Fe Springs. Another option is to remote tune with reputable freelancers on dsmtuners. I hear MY1GDSM is pretty good.

Instead of a 20g, have you considered a Holset hx35? This will offer you more potential in terms of growth, if you feel like you want more.
 
1000cc injectors will support around 450hp on e85. I forgot to mention that you really should get a wideband as well. Innovate is pretty much the gold standard with Link.

The stock intake mani and throttle body will get you to 400hp. I recommend reaching that goal first and if you still want more, then look into cams+springs/intake mani/throttle body.

For tuning, there's Road Race Engineering in Santa Fe Springs. Another option is to remote tune with reputable freelancers on dsmtuners. I hear MY1GDSM is pretty good.

Instead of a 20g, have you considered a Holset hx35? This will offer you more potential in terms of growth, if you feel like you want more.
I have not but I would like quick spool up n at least some low torque as I am used to driving around big modded v8s so I'd like at least some power around 3k would that turbo work for that?
 
Also I found this.......
http://www.aptuned.com/TBC-TD05H-20G

What do u guys think, to good to be true/legit? I'm so new to the whole hands on DSM experience but I've been reading the forums for about 6 mos. just for fun but I'm not to familiar with all the jargain or details yet...... Love the community tho, big part of why I went DSM :hellyeah::thumb:
 
Excuse my ignorance but what is an FMIC setup and what do you mean rewire the pump?
Fmic (front mount intercooler). I hear good things about the vrsf kit.
Rewire is to rewire the fuel pump so voltage doesn't drop at higher boost. STM sells a rewire kit as I am sure a couple other vendors do as well.
 
Awesome..... I'm pretty handy with a soldiering iron n my father is an electronics engineer so we can make something for that.....n thank you everyone for the quick responses it's much appreciated
 
Also I found this.......
http://www.aptuned.com/TBC-TD05H-20G

What do u guys think, to good to be true/legit? I'm so new to the whole hands on DSM experience but I've been reading the forums for about 6 mos. just for fun but I'm not to familiar with all the jargain or details yet...... Love the community tho, big part of why I went DSM :hellyeah::thumb:
Also slow down.... Take your time with your research. That turbo would prob blow up after a few pulls. Justin on her builds some pretty good turbos for a pretty fair price. Or forced performance if ya want a solid name brand.
 
Also slow down.... Take your time with your research. That turbo would prob blow up after a few pulls. Justin on her builds some pretty good turbos for a pretty fair price. Or forced performance if ya want a solid name brand.
I'll look into that....... Do u mean the 20g in general or just from that site?
 
That's good info thanks!! So what clutch should I be running then...... I'm willing to spend a bit more money on things to get quality parts n over build a lil so stuff doesn't break as much..... And do u think that 20g is good for my application and if so where can I get a good one if not what are your suggestions
 
If you are really bored and want to know a lot, I'd suggest getting the book " How to build max-performance mitsubishi 4g63t engines" by some of the guys at Road/Race Engineering. I learned a lot and their is a wealth of information in it.

Alex
 
Fmic (front mount intercooler). I hear good things about the vrsf kit.
Rewire is to rewire the fuel pump so voltage doesn't drop at higher boost. STM sells a rewire kit as I am sure a couple other vendors do as well.
I was looking at that one...... I kinda want a sleeper so should I just run a stock BOV n not have to get another BOV flange and should I just go with their j pipe then?
 
Also for e85 do I have to replace anything else??

It's not absolutely necessary to replace anything other than higher-flowing injectors (with a way to control them, e.g., Link). The only (minute) concern is that the OEM fuel filter might degrade faster as it is a paper element. But people, including myself, have ran fine with it on e85. Same goes for the stock fuel lines.
 
I would definitely go with the act street disk. A 2600 + street disk will easily hold 400hp (and relative torque) and it will provide smooth engagement for street use...ask me how I know :sneaky:

I'm guessing your clutch is slipping which is why you're asking, but what disk are you currently running?
 
A tdo5h (smaller turbine 20g) will NOT likely make 400 AWHP. Maybe 400hp crank, maybe. Especially at 21-24 psi. They mostly max out at 28 psi depending on how much timing advance you want to trade off. The tdo6h (larger turbine wheel) might make 400AWHP but you are going to need something to supplement the fuel most likely. (ie higher octane than 93, as in E85, or meth injection). With that said, I think a 20g is a great first step up turbo, and may very well be your last step up for a long time.

Don't mean to burst your bubble, just trying to be realistic. 400AWHP out of a 20g, especially a tdo5h is no easy task. You will need a great tuner and a very efficient setup.

It is still an awesome turbo over the 14b on your car currently though. lag is noticeable but insignificant (who goes below 3k rpm anyways?), but you won't care when you feel the power. Also don't spend less than $500 new on it. It will be a crap shoot as others have mentioned and likely not end in your favor. You can get them used for around 400 or less, and then get it rebuilt by Justin on here for a very reasonable price. They pop up in the classifieds all the time. Just be patient.
 
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