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ECMlink Lean at 3500. I'm puzzled.

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sillylepricon37

10+ Year Contributor
128
1
Dec 17, 2008
Rapid City, South Dakota
I am so puzzleddd! --- (lean). Doesn't matter if I'm at 28psi or 10psi. Doesn't matter if my fuel tables are at -25% or 5%. Always lean at 3500 to 4k. Even when i give light throttle and don't boost at all, it still goes lean at that rpm
-There is no Knock either.
I can post up a log

This just started happening. I checked all the vac lines etc..
I have DSM Link V3.
There is no way I'm Maxing out my 550 Injectors.
 

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550's ran out on my 16g at 20psi but it still didnt cause a lean condition like you are having. From what it sounds like its a fuel delivery issue when boost comes in. Make sure there is a good vacuum source with no leaks to the FPR. If it loses vacuum it wont raise 1:1 with boost. Also check the voltage at the fuel pump. Should be around 12v on stock wire and 14v if ran to battery. Maybe a clogged fuel filter or failing fuel pump. Can be so many different things, you just have to rule them out one by one.
 
550's ran out on my 16g at 20psi but it still didnt cause a lean condition like you are having. From what it sounds like its a fuel delivery issue when boost comes in. Make sure there is a good vacuum source with no leaks to the FPR. If it loses vacuum it wont raise 1:1 with boost. Also check the voltage at the fuel pump. Should be around 12v on stock wire and 14v if ran to battery. Maybe a clogged fuel filter or failing fuel pump. Can be so many different things, you just have to rule them out one by one.

What are your supporting mods? Fuel delivery, which pump are you using?


I did a boost leak test and it came back positive. So no boost leak or leak at the injectors...
I have a
-93 Pump gas
-Walbro 255 LPH
-RC550
-Never changed the Fuel Filter. Pretty sure its the stock one....could that be a problem.?
-All vac lines are good including the one at the FPR
-Stock MAF
-It doesn't matter if i am boosting or just all motor.... it does the same thing at 3500. Even if i climb rpms slow as hell
 
its happening to me as well. I can boost low rpms, get 7-14 counts sometimes none, its sluggish at 4k and up and then at high boost, 30+ counts of knock. im running an evo IX pump stock FPR, and VIII Injectors, is your idle vacuum bad at all? mine is 0_o.
-Shane
 
its happening to me as well. I can boost low rpms, get 7-14 counts sometimes none, its sluggish at 4k and up and then at high boost, 30+ counts of knock. im running an evo IX pump stock FPR, and VIII Injectors, is your idle vacuum bad at all? mine is 0_o.
-Shane

Well yes I was getting knock like that as well. As far as my vaccum... its about 10-14.... but i did notice at idle my car does studder a little bit. Like it doesn't idle smooth. The idle stays at 1k but it isn't smooth at all.

So no adjustable fuel pressure regulator or aftermarket filter upgrade.

That could definitely be a problem causing this.

Okay. So i will go get a fuel filter today.
Does it have to be aftermarket?
Is it an inline or standard filter?
My buddy has one for 15 dollars is that a decent price?
Why can't i run a stock FPR at 28psi if i have the other supporting mods?
Thank you.

Any recomendations appreciated.
 
Just Put a new fuel filter on. Same thing is still happening. Any ideas guys. It worked before now its not. Any kind of sensor or something?

New Log. No knock. Timing sliders are maxed out i believe starting at 3k. It just hits lean at 5k in 1st gear and about 3.5-4k in second gear and lower in 3rd. This is really weird i put a new thermostat in and a new fuel filter and did a BLT which there isn't one 1. And the Injectors are not leaking air either. All the VAC lines are ziptied on.
 

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Well yes I was getting knock like that as well. As far as my vaccum... its about 10-14.... but i did notice at idle my car does studder a little bit. Like it doesn't idle smooth. The idle stays at 1k but it isn't smooth at all.
yha thats the same exact problem as mine....... I just ordered a AFPR so i will let you know how that works out for me, maybe it will help you.
-shane
 
yha thats the same exact problem as mine....... I just ordered a AFPR so i will let you know how that works out for me, maybe it will help you.
-shane

please do. I would appreciate that.

LOL broken spark plug for 1. For 2 they wer platinums(Thats no good for 28psi) but the tips were white(lean) and around the spark area is was dark black. Could that be because they are platinums and burn hotter? I am going to go get some NGK's but 2 steps colder. Would this fool with the wideband and tell it lean?
 
Get the BPR7ES. And some good wires. Bad plugs and wires are notorious for causing unburnt fuel and making the car go lean.

EDIT: So you are tuning with v3. So replace those and do a log. See what happens. If you are still going a little lean, i would suggest what was said above and change the LTFT.

You can get away without an afpr, many have.
 
Okay. So i will go get a fuel filter today.
Does it have to be aftermarket?
Is it an inline or standard filter?
My buddy has one for 15 dollars is that a decent price?
Why can't i run a stock FPR at 28psi if i have the other supporting mods?
Thank you.

Any recomendations appreciated.

Aftermarket preferable, because then you can bypass the overly restrictive banjo bolt on the top of the OEM filter.

Inline is best, so you can just buy replacement filters (go with the 10 micron filters if u aren't running e85, you have to use the stainless 100micron filters if you are using E85, as ethanol corrodes the 10 micron ones).

Because the fuel requirements (normally) to run that much boost will over run your OEM regulator. If you are planning on anything over 20psi, a good rule of thumb with these cars, is to have a minimum of fuel pump + injectors (matched for airflow) + AFPR.

Have you yet checked your LTFT's and STFT's?


*edit*

Get the BPR7ES. And some good wires. Bad plugs and wires are notorious for causing unburnt fuel and making the car go lean.

EDIT: So you are tuning with v3. So replace those and do a log. See what happens. If you are still going a little lean, i would suggest what was said above and change the LTFT.

You can get away without an afpr, many have.

This is also a very good idea.
 
Thanks guys i really appreciate it. I will let you know how everything goes!

Aftermarket preferable, because then you can bypass the overly restrictive banjo bolt on the top of the OEM filter.

Inline is best, so you can just buy replacement filters (go with the 10 micron filters if u aren't running e85, you have to use the stainless 100micron filters if you are using E85, as ethanol corrodes the 10 micron ones).

Because the fuel requirements (normally) to run that much boost will over run your OEM regulator. If you are planning on anything over 20psi, a good rule of thumb with these cars, is to have a minimum of fuel pump + injectors (matched for airflow) + AFPR.

Have you yet checked your LTFT's and STFT's?






This is also a very good idea.



Lol... I'm not even surprised. I put some BPR7ES in gapped at .28 and it still does it. I mean it runs a little better and such but it still goes lean. Another thing i found out is that when i shift into second gear and give it some gas, it stays lean and then all of a sudden goes back to reading numbers, then i will get on it and it will go lean etc etc etc.. I talked to Tim dorris on ecm tuning and he says maybe the wideband is feeding me false readings. He told me that he can't notice it going lean by reading off the o2 sensor. Maybe my wideband is dirty? any other suggestions?
 
How does the car pull? How is the timing?

LOL car pulls fine.... thats what i don't understand! This wideband has only been used a couple months... The timing is advanced 15 degrees with no knock. No break up at all when the car pulls
 
What were you doing running platinum plugs in a turbo car? That's begging for a problem there. Yes, your car will lean out for a second while you shift, that's the ecu sensing no load, it's normal. Your injectors are WAY too small to be trying to run 28lbs. Gap your new NGK's to .25. Where is your wideband sensor installed? If it's after a bend, it can cause odd readings. What does your stock o2 sensor read when the wideband reads lean?


You can get away without an afpr, many have.


No, he can't. His crappy idle is the 255 overrunning the stock fpr. Fuel control is essential and a AFPR is needed for anything over a 190lph pump. Yes, there are people who have run a 255 and no afpr, these are the same people who can't get their car to idle under 1k and go nuts trying to tune because the stock fpr can't handle nearly twice as much fuel being sent through it than it was designed to handle.
 
What were you doing running platinum plugs in a turbo car? That's begging for a problem there. Yes, your car will lean out for a second while you shift, that's the ecu sensing no load, it's normal. Your injectors are WAY too small to be trying to run 28lbs. Gap your new NGK's to .25. Where is your wideband sensor installed? If it's after a bend, it can cause odd readings. What does your stock o2 sensor read when the wideband reads lean?





No, he can't. His crappy idle is the 255 overrunning the stock fpr. Fuel control is essential and a AFPR is needed for anything over a 190lph pump. Yes, there are people who have run a 255 and no afpr, these are the same people who can't get their car to idle under 1k and go nuts trying to tune because the stock fpr can't handle nearly twice as much fuel being sent through it than it was designed to handle.

Dont lecture me on this. I know for a fact it can be done. I never said, hey run it without an apfr its not needed. I said you can get away with it. I bought my gsx with a 255 in it and it idles just fine and pulls just fine on stock ignition, injectors and my timing and afr's are safe. So, yes it can be done. Its still not recommended.
 
What were you doing running platinum plugs in a turbo car? That's begging for a problem there. Yes, your car will lean out for a second while you shift, that's the ecu sensing no load, it's normal. Your injectors are WAY too small to be trying to run 28lbs. Gap your new NGK's to .25. Where is your wideband sensor installed? If it's after a bend, it can cause odd readings. What does your stock o2 sensor read when the wideband reads lean?





No, he can't. His crappy idle is the 255 overrunning the stock fpr. Fuel control is essential and a AFPR is needed for anything over a 190lph pump. Yes, there are people who have run a 255 and no afpr, these are the same people who can't get their car to idle under 1k and go nuts trying to tune because the stock fpr can't handle nearly twice as much fuel being sent through it than it was designed to handle.

If you really want to know i can tell you. It was the day before we were moving from South Dakota to Virginia and my plugs went out. I went to all the auto parts stores and all they had were platinums, so thats what i had to get in order to drive my car to virginia. I gapped them really low and ran 10 lbs on them. It was all interstate driving anyways. Yes i figured out the injectors couldn't handle 28lbs. But thats not what i want to talk about. I know they can't run that much boost now, but my problem is occuring whether there is boost or not.

Everything worked perfect before and now it wants to #### up. So i don't think it has anything to do with the widebands location being after a bend.

And when i say after i shift i mean after i shift. meaning it takes it about 2.5-3 sec to start reading numbers again. I know its normall to go --- when i shift. Its the fact that it reads lean 3 seconds after i shift. And thats without boosting the car. If i boost the car, the ####er stays lean.

I don't know how to read an o2 sensor.

Yes i have to set my idle at 1k no lower because of the FPR. If i set it lower, it shuts off. I JUST want to know why Its going lean!



AEM UEGO used 3 months
 
Last edited:
And when i say after i shift i mean after i shift. meaning it takes it about 2.5-3 sec to start reading numbers again. I know its normall to go --- when i shift. Its the fact that it reads lean 3 seconds after i shift. And thats without boosting the car. If i boost the car, the ####er stays lean.

Are you venting to atmos on a pull through maf? If so, the car will go HORRIBLY rich in between shifts (farther than the range of the wideband), and you'll get a time delay between readable values.
 
You have a problem causing incorrect wideband O2 sensor readings. Either it is filthy dirty, was exposed to a lot of moisture, was exposed to a lot of backpressure, is picking up an exhaust leak somewhere in front of the sensor, is in the bend of the exhaust, or you installed it downstream of a catalytic convertor (but I really doubt that one). The lag time for fuel cutoff at closed throttle and the mismatch of the wideband with the narrowband, ignition timing and knock signal all point to bad readings from the wideband.

Any reason you're not logging the WBO2 in ECMLink?
 
You have a problem causing incorrect wideband O2 sensor readings. Either it is filthy dirty, was exposed to a lot of moisture, was exposed to a lot of backpressure, is picking up an exhaust leak somewhere in front of the sensor, is in the bend of the exhaust, or you installed it downstream of a catalytic convertor (but I really doubt that one). The lag time for fuel cutoff at closed throttle and the mismatch of the wideband with the narrowband, ignition timing and knock signal all point to bad readings from the wideband.

Any reason you're not logging the WBO2 in ECMLink?

I don't know how to do that. And so your thinking bad wideband? how can i check this? can i use another sensor off of someone elses that is working?

and my bov is recirculated btw

wideband is clean too.. pulled it out
 
See, the problem with these widebands is that they give a false sense of security. And thats true for any metering device on the car. You never really know if its bad. But in your case i think it is. I would look for a friend or another wideband to use to be honest.
 
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