ECMlink Lean at 3500. I'm puzzled.

[sillylepricon37]

See, the problem with these widebands is that they give a false sense of security. And thats true for any metering device on the car. You never really know if its bad. But in your case i think it is. I would look for a friend or another wideband to use to be honest.

Now, can i just swap the wbo2 sensor? because it has a plug... so the guage and everything will work, but do you think it might be the sensor itself that is bad? and i will check how horizontal my wb02 is

 

[delta448]

If the sensor is only 3 months old, it must have had a pretty rough life to fail so soon. If you installed it correctly according to the instructions I linked, I'd be more inclined to believe that the controller is faulty (or was damaged) than the actual sensor.

The AEM controller isn't exactly the best anyways IMO. I particularly dislike that the controller uses an internal resistor to modify the calibration relative to the age of the sensor. It pretty much turns the controller into a disposable item just like the sensor. If you have an old controller and a new sensor, you'll get crap for accuracy. Last I checked, Bosch doesn't sell "laser cut resistors" along with their sensors.

 

[sillylepricon37]

it obviously couldn't be the FPR im guessing?
So what should i do?

 

[twdorris]

You have a nice stock front O2 signal in your log (lean.elg). That's going to be more reliable than an AEM WB anyway.

Just look for areas in your log where the AEM was showing lean and see if the stock front O2 sensor agrees. If not, then something's goofy with the AEM.

I only see two short spots where the mixture might have been slightly lean according to the front O2 in the lean.elg file. But the ECU quickly raised the fuel trims in both cases and got the o2 cycling again. And both those times were while idling, so I don't think they are showing examples where you saw the AEM WB go lean.

So as far as I can tell from your lean.elg file, there was no case where the front o2 sensor indicated a lean condition after a shift. Certainly not for several consecutive seconds.

Well, I take that back, sorta. At about 99 seconds into the log file, the front O2 showed a lean condition following a shift. But the throttle was closed there and the ECU was intentionally cutting fuel (as it should have been). So that certainly doesn't count.

Thomas Dorris

 

[sillylepricon37]

You have a nice stock front O2 signal in your log (lean.elg). That's going to be more reliable than an AEM WB anyway.

Just look for areas in your log where the AEM was showing lean and see if the stock front O2 sensor agrees. If not, then something's goofy with the AEM.

I only see two short spots where the mixture might have been slightly lean according to the front O2 in the lean.elg file. But the ECU quickly raised the fuel trims in both cases and got the o2 cycling again. And both those times were while idling, so I don't think they are showing examples where you saw the AEM WB go lean.

So as far as I can tell from your lean.elg file, there was no case where the front o2 sensor indicated a lean condition after a shift. Certainly not for several consecutive seconds.

Well, I take that back, sorta. At about 99 seconds into the log file, the front O2 showed a lean condition following a shift. But the throttle was closed there and the ECU was intentionally cutting fuel (as it should have been). So that certainly doesn't count.

Thomas Dorris

Ha nice. Hey tom how do i read the front o2 to tell if its lean or rich or just right?

 

[delta448]

it obviously couldn't be the FPR im guessing?

No.

So what should i do?

Get rid of the AEM wideband and buy something else. An LC1 can calibrate and use the same Bosch sensor you're using right now, or you could step up to a controller that uses the slightly better NTK sensor, like the NGK AFX.

Ha nice. Hey tom how do i read the front o2 to tell if its lean or rich or just right?

You can't read with a lot of accuracy what a NBO2 is telling you, but basically the sensor reads 0.5v at 14.7 AFR. It produces higher voltage when in lower oxygen concentration (running rich) and lower voltage is produced when there is higher amounts of unused oxygen (lean).

http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm

 

[sillylepricon37]

No.


Get rid of the AEM wideband and buy something else. An LC1 can calibrate and use the same Bosch sensor you're using right now, or you could step up to a controller that uses the slightly better NTK sensor, like the NGK AFX.


You can't read with a lot of accuracy what a NBO2 is telling you, but basically the sensor reads 0.5v at 14.7 AFR. It produces higher voltage when in lower oxygen concentration (running rich) and lower voltage is produced when there is higher amounts of unused oxygen (lean).

OXYGEN SENSORS

So Controller issue, not Sensor issue.
Also wouldn't AEM have some kind of warranty for this? I JUST bought this....now i'm kind of pissed

 

[mschlanglv]

No.


Get rid of the AEM wideband and buy something else. An LC1 can calibrate and use the same Bosch sensor you're using right now, or you could step up to a controller that uses the slightly better NTK sensor, like the NGK AFX.

The AFX actually comes with the Bosch LSU sensor, but the markings are machined off.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Just to further emphasize what they are talking about, the AEM widebands are renowned throughout the DSMlink community for being inaccurate. They develop new voltage outputs for their controller boxes frequently, and it uber f***s anyone outside of AEM that need the calc routine.

 

[delta448]

The AFX actually comes with the Bosch LSU sensor, but the markings are machined off.

Then that must depend on where you buy it...

"NGK has long been the world leader in exhaust gas sensor technology with its NTK brand oxygen sensors."

"The AFX is compatible with both Bosch LSU and NTK UEGO (wideband) sensors without any changes in hardware or programming and offers superb accuracy (comparable to some laboratory grade systems)."

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

Dont lecture me on this. I know for a fact it can be done. I never said, hey run it without an apfr its not needed. I said you can get away with it. I bought my gsx with a 255 in it and it idles just fine and pulls just fine on stock ignition, injectors and my timing and afr's are safe. So, yes it can be done. Its still not recommended.

I'd venture to bet that your gsx doesn't have a real 255 in it.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

I'd venture to bet that your gsx doesn't have a real 255 in it.

Your right. I put one of those fake 255's in it.

 

[sillylepricon37]

So you know the check box, ground pin to ecu? I clicked that and it idles at like 200-400rpms. Is that suppose to tell me something? shouldn't it idle normal with that?

Also i locked in open loop mode and there was no hesitation from 1-3k rpm like there is normally.
hmmmm i dropped the timing down to 8 and it seems fine. but still the lean condition. It doesn't even feel like its lean to me..... i might have a faulty wideband. not sure though

 

[Boosted98gsx]

So you know the check box, ground pin to ecu? I clicked that and it idles at like 200-400rpms. Is that suppose to tell me something? shouldn't it idle normal with that?

Also i locked in open loop mode and there was no hesitation from 1-3k rpm like there is normally.
hmmmm i dropped the timing down to 8 and it seems fine. but still the lean condition. It doesn't even feel like its lean to me..... i might have a faulty wideband. not sure though

What that button does, is, ground the timing pin so that you can check your base ignition timing, basically makes your car run on base timing (if set right, 5-7* advance at idle), so it's normal. Grab a timing light, and check the crankshaft -> ign timing angle via the timing cover / accessory pulley. Should be between 5 and 7 degrees.

 

[sillylepricon37]

What that button does, is, ground the timing pin so that you can check your base ignition timing, basically makes your car run on base timing (if set right, 5-7* advance at idle), so it's normal. Grab a timing light, and check the crankshaft -> ign timing angle via the timing cover / accessory pulley. Should be between 5 and 7 degrees.

Is this really close to the crankshaft? and do i have to make sure the cam gear marks line up?

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Is this really close to the crankshaft? and do i have to make sure the cam gear marks line up?

If you don't know what you doing, don't touch it or mess with it, and get someone who does to show you. You can MESS STUFF UP by messing with this.

It's like going into your PC's BIOS w/o knowing what it does and just start flipping stuff.

 

[sillylepricon37]

If you don't know what you doing, don't touch it or mess with it, and get someone who does to show you. You can MESS STUFF UP by messing with this.

It's like going into your PC's BIOS w/o knowing what it does and just start flipping stuff.

How can i mess stuff up by turning the crankshaft with a ratchet? its not like the belt is just gonna come off. I do remember when my buddy did the timing and i think it was like a guess n check kind of thing. I don't know what its called but it was underneath the plastic cover, and his (a 97) was different than mine (a 99) there was a different way of timing it.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

How can i mess stuff up by turning the crankshaft with a ratchet? its not like the belt is just gonna come off. I do remember when my buddy did the timing and i think it was like a guess n check kind of thing. I don't know what its called but it was underneath the plastic cover, and his (a 97) was different than mine (a 99) there was a different way of timing it.

Because you don't even know what I am talking about.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Are you talking about the CPS?

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Are you talking about the CPS?

I am talking about checking base ignition timing. Which is irrelevant being that he has a 99. Grounding base timing is worthless since the 2gB's have the crank + CAS combo allowing the ECU to control ign timing.

 

[sillylepricon37]

Are you talking about the CPS?

Must be. He had it set like it was on his, and when he tried to turn the crank it would just stop halfway through... And he couldn't figure out why. So he took it apart and turned that gear or whatever it is, a half turn and put it together and said that was right. I was like IDK never timed a car before, i just know you gotta line up the marks and pull the pin when its all set

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Must be. He had it set like it was on his, and when he tried to turn the crank it would just stop halfway through... And he couldn't figure out why. So he took it apart and turned that gear or whatever it is, a half turn and put it together and said that was right. I was like IDK never timed a car before, i just know you gotta line up the marks and pull the pin when its all set

You are talking about mechanical timing of an engine. Making sure the cams open when the crank is at the right place.

COMPLETELY different than ignition timing.

 

[sillylepricon37]

You are talking about mechanical timing of an engine. Making sure the cams open when the crank is at the right place.

COMPLETELY different than ignition timing.

Whats ignition timing?

 

[delta448]

Wow.
Ignition timing = the advance or retard of the timing of the spark plug firing with respect to Top Dead Center position of the piston.

I.E. a base idle setting of 5 degrees BTDC (+5 is stock DSM), means the spark plug fires at 5 degrees of crankshaft rotation Before the piston reaches TDC.

+5 degrees is positive advance, if it were a negative advance value (-which is possibly a correct value with enough boost and the right A/F ratio at low engine speed-) it means the plug fires After the piston passes TDC (ATDC).

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Whats ignition timing?

A car has to have 3 things to function, Air, Fuel, and Ignition.

The mechanical movement of an engine brings in the air, the carb / ecu controls the fuel, and ignition is probably the most important power maker of them all.

With relation to the stroke of the crankshaft, you time the ignition of the air / fuel ratio to detonate the a/f mixture so that you get peak cylinder pressure at the top of the compression stroke, resulting in the maximum downward force on the piston and the most torque.

This "timing" of ignition is based on when the spark happens with relation to the position of the crankshaft.