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leaking TurboXS boost controller, need help

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perley03

15+ Year Contributor
585
14
Apr 29, 2006
Bangor, Maine
Today I finished up my intercooler plumbing and tried doing a boost leak. I had to crank up the compressor to 40psi before it would registure 10psi on my boost gauge. I found 2 leaks, one at the idle screw (o ring, fixed that one) and massive one coming from my boost controller. It is leaking around the two o-rings at the top, and will stop leaking when I screw in the screw all the way. The boost controller is the TurboX'S High-Performance Boost Controller, it has the 2 adjusting screws for fine adjustment. Is there suppost to be a cover over the top, because there is air leaking out from the bottom o-ring, and when I took that off, there was 2 holes, and I think its where the air will leak out (bleeder type i guess). Anyone who knows about these controllers feel free to chime in and help me out. I'm gonna be pissed if I have to buy a new controller :mad:
 
It's supposed to leak out under the O-rings. The High Peformance boost controller has two typs of boost control: ball-and-spring for coarse adjustment (the brass side part) and bleed holes (located under the O-rings) for fine control. The O-rings cover the bleed holes to keep debris out of the body of the controller.

Next time you do a boost leak test, try disconnecting and blocking off the MBC pressure line.
 
Next time you do a boost leak test, try disconnecting and blocking off the MBC pressure line.

This is what I did to finish my boost leak test. I just hooked up the actuator directly from the j-pipe and watched the wastegate arm for proper movement (it works!:thumb: ) and porceeded with the soapy water. I fixed all of the leaks and put the boost controller back on. Wouldn't the leaks from the controller cause lag, as before it had all it could do to build 15psi on the T-25, and it was hitting that at about 3200rpms. Anyways the 14B should have no problem holding 15psi to redline, but is there a way to fix that huge leak? The only way to do that would be to wind that screw all the way in, and according to the instructions it says to keep it a minimum of 2 screws from fully closed, or turbo lag may be experienced.
 
It's in the design of bleeder boost controllers. As long as you're not tapping your BOV line, it shouldn't really hurt anything. If you can keep the fine adjustment screw a few turns from being all the way in and use the coarse adjustment screw to get to your target boost level, that should cut down on how much air leaks out.
 
It's in the design of bleeder boost controllers. As long as you're not tapping your BOV line, it shouldn't really hurt anything. If you can keep the fine adjustment screw a few turns from being all the way in and use the coarse adjustment screw to get to your target boost level, that should cut down on how much air leaks out.

Alright, I'll see what I can do. I hooked it up to my air compressor and set the coarse screw to 13psi, and I'll start turning up the boost slowly and watch my logger. I'll have to play around with it to get it just right. Thanks for all of your help.
 
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