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Turboxs leaking

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mkspriggs

15+ Year Contributor
164
0
May 21, 2004
clovis, New Mexico
Hey guys just got done doing a boost leak test and found a few problems my major one though is my type-H is leaking through the holes. Is there anything i can do about this or is this a venting problem? Thanks guys
 
I have been doing some more research on this and i may be mistaken but the washers a few people has mentioned will this make it stop leaking by adding these washers to my type h?If so does anyone know the size of the washers,also where can you get bigger springs?thanks alot guys
 
If yours is anything like their H-34 (and I'm guessing it is), use some quarters. :) Seriously. They're almost the same size as the washers supplied by TurboXS.

...and yes, I know from experience.

Plus, if you're ever in a jam and need change for a meter, just unscrew the cap on your bov and pull out a quarter or two. :p
 
The mbc isnt a great one but it does a good job,i went from the bov to a t fitting the from there to the wastgate and the other end to the intake manifold fitting behind the fuel rail,like the diagram in the link.

I was looking at my bov and where are you guys putting the quarters or washers? Only place i can think of is above the spring is this correct? Thanks guys for all your help
 

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Ok i figured out where to put the washers i put 5 washers in there the size of the spring and i am still leaking around the blow off holes.i looked at the o rings and they look great i guess it is possible they are crushed though i see that alot on nissans in my shop.Any suggestions,sorry to sound impatent but im leaving for boot camp in 3 weeks and im just trying to get my baby back in shape before i go.thanks guys
 
Not to get off topic, but that is not the ideal way to hook up your MBC. Instead of the Teeing into your bov line, you should connect directly to compressor or J-pipe. This will save your turbo if you are boost leaking and prevent boost spike.

As for adding washers/quarters, it sounds like it will help make the spring more compressed (similar to the adjustment screw on a Greddy BOV) but I don't see how that would help you with the leaking.
 
Ok i diddnt know that i was just going off this pic one of the moderators posted,so if i go strait to j pipe then were does my wastgate actuator go?To the Intake mani?Do you maybe have a pic of this setup.

Yea im kinda lost on the bov i think im going to try and instal new o-rings and see what happens maybe slightly thicker would help.thanks guys
 
Leave the wastegate actuator where it is. Just take the line going to the MBC Tee and hook it up to your compressor/J-pipe instead. Don't forget to get a new MBC vac line or replace the T with a straight fitting (watch out for leaks).
 
No matter how many washers you add to perload the spring, it will still leak. The sealing surface on the brass piston is not machined concentric with the aluminum seat it the body so there is a gap between the 2 when closed. My h-34 worked great but when I switched to a rfl, this was my problem. It seems to be hit and miss with the txs bov, usually more miss than hit. That is why I switched to a Tial.
 
mkspriggs said:
Ok i diddnt know that i was just going off this pic one of the moderators posted,so if i go strait to j pipe then were does my wastgate actuator go?To the Intake mani?Do you maybe have a pic of this setup.

Yea im kinda lost on the bov i think im going to try and instal new o-rings and see what happens maybe slightly thicker would help.thanks guys


Maybe my professional drawing skills will help you with your mbc hookup :D
 

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mkspriggs said:
Ok i diddnt know that i was just going off this pic one of the moderators posted
It's not off topic at all. Did you pressure test with the mbc still connected? I have no personal experience with the BOV and it can very well be the design of this particular BOV like 92awddsm mentioned but if you pressure tested with the MBC connected or without turning it all the way up, you will be bleeding pressure off the BOV line through the wastegate pressure relief valve resulting in improper sealing of the BOV. Re-test after you switch the pressure source to the compressor housing or completely disable your mbc and see if leaking at the BOV persists.
 
Hopefully that is my problem then i left the mbc at my usual setup so i will try it the way you said and post results,also i was wondering if it leaking alittle willl cause that big of a problem since i have a blow threw setup?I kinda have mixed fillings about that but just trying to throw that out there to make sure.Thanks guys
 
mkspriggs said:
Hopefully that is my problem then i left the mbc at my usual setup so i will try it the way you said and post results
If your mbc was left as is during your pressure test, I'm almost certain that this is at least part if not all of your problem as it was clearly demonstrated here.

also i was wondering if it leaking alittle willl cause that big of a problem since i have a blow threw setup?I kinda have mixed fillings about that but just trying to throw that out there to make sure.
What are mix fillings? :D

A pre-sensor leak, in this case the BOV, in a blow-through setup will not affect your air fuel ratio. With that said, it will still cause slower spool, turbine over-spin, early turbo failure, higher intake temperature......etc. How much pressure were you able to pump in the intake tract during your test? What was showing on your boost gauge? If the BOV leaks as soon as pressure is introduced into the system, you can be sure it will be leaking like a mofo at 20psi, definitely not something I would live with. If leaking persists after you remove your mbc pressure source away from the BOV line, it would be time to find a BOV that doesn't leak, like the 1G BOV. ;)
 
I can get it to about 20psi with alittle leak at the bov,and one from my seals in my turbo which im about to fix that
 
Well i did it the way you guys said unfortunitly it diddnt help much,still leaking there.Is there anything else that might cause the bov to open as oldman said about the boost controler bleeding of pressure?Thanks guys for all your help
 
Did you change the seal on the BOV? I'm not familiar with txs BOVs so I actually don't know what you're talking about when you say seal... Are you leaking anywhere other than your BOV? Last resort is to just get a new BOV.
 
No_Skillz said:
Did you change the seal on the BOV? I'm not familiar with txs BOVs so I actually don't know what you're talking about when you say seal... Are you leaking anywhere other than your BOV? Last resort is to just get a new BOV.

There is no seal per say in a turbo xs bov. It has a brass piston that seals against the aluminum body when closed. When the piston and body are machined, if they are not concentric, they will leak. You can replace the piston but it might not help because the body could be the problem.

To the original poster, You can always add more shimms but then you will get to a point where you will experience compressor surge. I suggest you either get a greddy, tial, or hks. From what I have heard(no personal experience) the ebay knock off pieces work as well as the real counterpart if you are on a tight budget. I personally went with a real tial just for the fact that I didnt want to buy 2 or 3 more bov's until I found one that worked. I just bit the bullet and got what I know would work and last for a while. I think I only paid $200 for my Tial from alamo motorsports.
 
Do you know if any other brands bolt on to a turboxs flange?i have a dejontool itercooler piping and i have that flange on there.Or is there another turboxs that people have good exsperience with?Thanks guys
 
mkspriggs said:
Does the rfl have any issues with leaking?

All turbo xs bov's are built the same way and have the same issues. You have about a 50/50 chance of getting one that doesnt leak.

And no, no other bov uses the same flange as the txs. You will have to have another flange welded onto your uicp. Just get a good bov and pay someone to weld the new flange on. That will be cheaper than getting the rfl and then another bov because the rfl leaks also.
 
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