Late 2g block question

[MoreBoostTSi]

So, I spun a bearing in my 1995 tsi awd and I'm obviously gonna do a rebuild. So what I've decided to do is by this package from dsm graveyards DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts! and buy a late 2g block and get the package with late style bearings so I can help reduce the risk of crankwalk.

So I got a couple questions
1. How easy is it to find a late 2g block and, how much would one cost?
2. I'm pretty sure this wouldn't require any retuning, but just to be sure, I thought I'd ask the pros! Haha
3. Does anyone got one to sell on here? (I know this isn't the classifieds, but I can't post an ad there yet )
4. Would you guys think this is a good idea?

This bottom end is advertised at 375 hp, and that's more than my goals were this car. And it seems it would be well in my budget if I can get a block at the right price, and it doesn't require new tuning (I don't think it would though)

So yah, any and all input with this would be awesome! And I did a couple searches on here but I never quite cleared up my questions.

Thanks!

 

[Rockyp]

It's worth a rebuild. The less DSMs in junkyards, the better the world will be.

1- It's fairly easy to find any 6 or 7 bolt blocks. They're on the classifieds and miller imports in the vendor section.

2-As long as you rebuild it exactly as original, you shouldn't need a tune. You will have to study a bit on timing with these cars.

3-There's about 4-5 blocks for sale on this site right now. the user Burkgonzo has a 7 bolt for sale and I've ordered parts from him before. i think vtec_this is parting out a car now too.

4-Good idea, but while you're there, i'd do a 6-bolt block. Crankwalk isn't as likely as the stories, but if you're that worried about it just go with a 6-bolt.

Just my opinion...

 

[MoreBoostTSi]

A 6 bolt would require dsmLink or a trick sensor because it doesn't have all the sensors a 7 bolt does. So a late style 7 bolt seems like the better idea for me, the trick is tho that I need a late style block for the re designed flange bearings.

 

[tazndrew04]

why would you go with a 6 bolt over a revised late 98-99 7 bolt block? IMHO id take the late 7 bolt block as with the 6 bolt that means buying a 6 bolt tranny.

 

[Carlz0r]

why would you go with a 6 bolt over a revised late 98-99 7 bolt block? IMHO id take the late 7 bolt block as with the 6 bolt that means buying a 6 bolt tranny.

Uhhh, what? No, no you don't. You can bolt a 6 bolt to a 2g tranny with no issues, hence why its a popular upgrade in 1g cars.

 

[MoreBoostTSi]

I dont wanna use a 6 bolt, because Id rather stay away from retuning or trick sensors.

My main deliema right now is finding a revised 7 bolt block for a decent price.

Now I look at the website and it says pick your blOck, does this mean I get to pick any block I want? That seems like wayyyy to good of a deal, but if it does than that would be sweet.

Thanks for the responses!

 

[19Eclipse90]

A 6 bolt would require dsmLink or a trick sensor because it doesn't have all the sensors a 7 bolt does.

That's really not completely true. A 1G engine (either 6-bolt or 7-bolt) swapped into a 2G will work by utilizing all 2G sensors except for the crank sensor and cam sensor. A 1G engine will not have provisions for both of these sensors and depending on the year of the 2G may not have provisions for either of them. The most common way around this is to utilize the 1G cam sensor which alone provides both of the necessary signals, those provided by the crank and cam sensors, the 2G ECU requires. Whether the 1G cam sensor is always adequate or not is another issue entirely (search: "6-bolt swap random misfire" or a combination of the terms); but for the car to run, correctly wire up a 1G cam sensor and you'll be on your way -- no DSMLink, no tricks.

The other alternatives for a 6-bolt you can find here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-cas-necessary-6-bolt-swap.html#post152503321

An alternative for a 1G 7-bolt engine exists as well. One method is realizing the 1G 7-bolt engine uses the same front casing/oil pump as the 2G 4G63, so the crank sensor is a direct bolt-on. With that, you can bolt on a 2G head without any modification whatsoever and reuse the 2G cam sensor. As far as I am aware, you are stuck using the 1G cam sensor otherwise. Just figured I'd lay it out for you (and anyone else) so you could make an informed decision.

Uhhh, what? No, no you don't. You can bolt a 6 bolt to a 2g tranny with no issues...

Or vice versa, a 1G transmission will bolt to a 2G engine with no issues. You will have issues trying to install a 1G transmission in a 2G car, though.

 

[estoyaqui30]

I think that the block should have the VIN of the donor car. That way you should be able to check that it came from a 98-99 car.

Look for 98-99 part out ads on tuners, or Mitsubishi Graveyard and ask Gary what he has available.

I used to worry about the "crankwalk thing" but at point my 99 GSX has 175,xxx miles on it with an ACT 2600 lb pressure plate and it's still good

Just an opinion

 

[tazndrew04]

if your worried about crankwalk just unplug your clutch switch makes it less prone to crankwalk

 

[Below Ambient]

for 375hp i would just reuse what you have

 

[Carlz0r]

if your worried about crankwalk just unplug your clutch switch makes it less prone to crankwalk

Not trying to pick on you, but you really need to make sure you have correct info before posting. The clutch switch being unplugged doesn't make an engine any less prone to crankwalk. The theory is that by unplugging it, you can start the engine in neutral without depressing the clutch, that way you aren't applying any force to the thrust surfaces before the oil pump builds pressure.

 

[MoreBoostTSi]

I'm pretty set on this rebuild plan. I look at it like this; no matter what I want new rods and pistons, and i know every good rebuild gets new rings, bearings, timing system, fluids etc...

This kit comes with everything but gaskets and timing. So once I get those it comes out to the same price as it was when I pieced it together, and I know dsm graveyard does a good quality job with there products (not a review)

Now I figure since my block is flange style, I mind as well get a split thrust washer style block while I'm at it, so that way I have little to no chance of CW.

Any ideas? Does this sound like a good idea? It seems pretty much bullet proof to me

Also, Im looking to buy one of those late style blocks if anyone has one!

 

[Carlz0r]

I'm pretty set on this rebuild plan. I look at it like this; no matter what I want new rods and pistons, and i know every good rebuild gets new rings, bearings, timing system, fluids etc...

This kit comes with everything but gaskets and timing. So once I get those it comes out to the same price as it was when I pieced it together, and I know dsm graveyard does a good quality job with there products (not a review)

Now I figure since my block is flange style, I mind as well get a split thrust washer style block while I'm at it, so that way I have little to no chance of CW.

Any ideas? Does this sound like a good idea? It seems pretty much bullet proof to me

Also, Im looking to buy one of those late style blocks if anyone has one!

Well, if you're deadset on going the 7 bolt route, it sounds like you're on the right track. Personally, I'd go with the tried and true 6-bolt (in fact, I'm in the middle of my own build haha).

Either way, good luck with the build, looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

 

[SpawnedX]

So I got a couple questions
1. How easy is it to find a late 2g block and, how much would one cost?
2. I'm pretty sure this wouldn't require any retuning, but just to be sure, I thought I'd ask the pros! Haha
3. Does anyone got one to sell on here? (I know this isn't the classifieds, but I can't post an ad there yet )
4. Would you guys think this is a good idea?

1. Not as easy as one may think. Long block will cost you around $500.00 to $800.00 depending on seller.

2. It will require some changes to the CAS pigtail.

3. Doubt it, I have 3 and will never sell them, most people with revised blocks don't let them go.

4. Why wouldn't it?

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

I've seen 98-99 short blocks go for as low as $100(bare block only). I just got an extra complete engine to build(By complete I mean evrything: injectors, intake/exhaust manifold, sensor, alternator, etc.) for $200 .

Only problem is that it spun a bearing.

 

[MoreBoostTSi]

I'm talking about just a bare revised 7 bolt block.

Now, how would it require changes to the CAS? Im running a 7 bolt, my car is a 1995 tsi awd. So it should just bolt right in correct?

 

[SpawnedX]

That was assuming you were buying an entire long block.

 

[MoreBoostTSi]

So than would still need to change the CAS? I thought these swapped right out?

 

[Carlz0r]

I'm talking about just a bare revised 7 bolt block.

Now, how would it require changes to the CAS? Im running a 7 bolt, my car is a 1995 tsi awd. So it should just bolt right in correct?

As long as you use the same head you'll be fine. 95's have the CAS on the cam gear side, the others have it on the opposite side, and the signal is different (inverted I think). Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[MoreBoostTSi]

That's what I figured, since I'm already running a 7 bolt a revised 7 bolt should be good to go.

Thanks guys!

Seems like for 800ish I'll have a brand new late style bottom end. Than I would just need the other misc parts and I would have a legit rebuild that's gonna last a long time and take a decent amount of power. Im not looking for anymore than 400 hp with this car!

 

[98gstrunner]

just passing on some info I just figured out myself, I have a 98 gst and I bought a core from one of my buddies to build and put back in my car, you are right with the changes on the 98-99 block with the thrust washers being a better route to go (in my opinion) but you may want to check your head, the core that I got was from a 95-97 not sure, but the oil jets that are about 5-8 times smaller than the ones in my 98. the cams had some scarring and it looked like it had been starved of oil. didn't know if you had considered any work for a head or not, but it is at least worth checking to see what you have got.