Knock sensor torque

[ApertureLaboratories]

Ok so, I had my knock sensor go out (cel and Goo crap gone from back) and I replaced it with a new one, I have read everything from hand tight to 12 ftlbs up to 16 ftlbs. What I was wondering is if anyone could post the actual torque spec and how they torqued theirs (from what location using what tool)

 

[ilco187]

I've changed about 10 or so on a few peoples cars and i just hand snug it then give it a turn with a wrench to get it tight... not too tight though.

 

[ApertureLaboratories]

See I tightened it hand tight then I think it might have gotten a tiny bit (2 ft lbs maybe) or torque from a crescent ...(my buddy tried to tighten it a lil) cel went away for about 10 mins then came back.(as it does everytime I turn the car off and back on) upon inspection I noticed the sensor was hand tight (at best) ....no need for the wrench to even take it back off....and I noticed the old one was much tighter then hand tight....

 

[CrawlinZX14]

I go hand tight, then a quarter turn with a wrench after. However you should not throw a CEL if your knock is loose. Only if its not connected. My knock had the back off it completely, all goo gone, and never threw a CEL. Not until I unplugged it at least. Replaced it last weekend. Hand tight then 1/4 turn with a wrench. You can put a small dab of loctite on there if your worried about it backing out, but use blue so u can get it back out later if needed.

 

[ApertureLaboratories]

The cel comes on , I'm guessing , due to the sensor picking up knock that isn't really there. I.e. vibrations from being loose or not grounding properly.

Ok so, I removed the knock sensor today and retorqued it to 16ft lbs and the cel comes back even after clearing the ecu of codes. I also tried removing the knock sensor and replacing with another one (mitsubishi) and the same thing happens. I have a led hooked up on my dash that monitors the ecu codes and I am getting code 31 for knock sensor but, after two different knock sensors it will not stay gone. Any ideas?


P.S still pretty much all stock except for the prothanes.

 

[91AWD4G63]

^^ loaned him mine which is known good.

 

[ApertureLaboratories]

Ok, so to clear up the post. The cel is off when I start the car, then after about 20-30secs it throws a code for knock sensor, at idle or while driving. Does this sound like maybe a problem in wiring or another issue?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Check wiring, or its a bad sensor,, could be something loose in the system. I had a bad logger so i got wrong codes anyway, now with link no problems with inaccurate codes.

 

[ApertureLaboratories]

I checked the wires and they are getting good connection and same voltage all the way from ecu to sensor, I started the car three ways. First, with the sensor screwed in and plugged in. Second, with a different sensor plugged in but not screwed in (holding to ground on firewall). Third, no sensor plugged in. Voltages stayed the same as well as the cel came on around the exact same time for all three.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Do a compression test then. You may very well have something bad inside the motor. Any knocks or ticks? Exhaust leaks? anything? I have pulled 30+ knocks at low speeds and never threw a CEL, so honestly IDK. I didnt throw a CEL until I disconnected my knock

 

[ApertureLaboratories]

Well, it was a consistent cel until i changed the sensor. Then, it went away for about 30 secs. Every time I start the car its clear, but, my led still shows the bad knock sensor code even though there is no cel upon startup. About 30 secs or so after , even when under no load, it appears. and it does the exact same thing if I start it with the knock sensor unplugged. As I said before, I traced wires, tested voltage and found nothing that seems out of the ordinary besides the decreased performance and cel.

Ok so, I have been searching and trying to find the answer to this problem and I stumbled upon this: (not sure how mad ppl get about linking to other forums )

"So I did a little more reading and took another look at a few wiring diagrams, and took a chance on what I though I saw. Mind you, the wiring diagram looked like Chinese to me.

What I did was instead of taking the red wire and running it to pin 9, and the black/white wire to a ground, I took the red wire and the black/white wire soldered them together, then ran both as one single wire to pin 9. Cranked 'er up, no more CEL. No bad for guessing.

Just wanted to post this for searching purposes. Just in case anyone else comes across this problem."


...... So, I tried this by cutting the black wire off the plug and splicing the two together and takin git out for a quick run. No cel came on during run. The guy also stated that it is still reading knock but not crippling the car by being faulty (verified by logger). So, I'm hoping this will work for now.